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Project Shamu
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2,411 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,441
You guys can come over and help with my cab beds already off glad u getting some good work done.

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Hey, we aint cheap, some cheeseburgers and beer and we'll be on our way!

I'm happy I can try and make this thing "nice" you know? I would like to get all of the body work done and professionally painted, but funds are going to more important stuff right now (almost out of debt!!!).
 

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Native Texan
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8,987 Posts
Hey, we aint cheap, some cheeseburgers and beer and we'll be on our way!



I'm happy I can try and make this thing "nice" you know? I would like to get all of the body work done and professionally painted, but funds are going to more important stuff right now (almost out of debt!!!).
I understand that i need to work on my body but i need to get it mobile again first. But body work is on the list after trans is done. Will paint it all my self hope i can make it look ok.

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don't play well w others
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3,659 Posts
Hey....
As long as they run....
 

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Project Shamu
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2,411 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,444
Reading up on CCV mods, how come nobody runs the hose directly over the top of the turbo, and plumb it into the downpipe? The Venturi (?) would pull the vent gasses perfectly, and being so close to the turbo, with all that heat, the oil would most likely burn up as soon as it gets into the exhaust? I'm just trying to keep from running 17 feet of hose to the back of the exhaust just for it to be a pain in the ass from drooping and causing problems.

Only reason I'm thinking about it is because I saw how much oil was in the bottom of my hot side CAC when I pulled it off to fix it...

Anybody run it like that? Or seen someone who has?
 

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Strongly suggest not doing that. That downpipe gets pretty hot, and vaporized oil is fairly flammable.

Best case, a fire.

Worst case, crankcase becomes a bomb.

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Native Texan
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8,987 Posts
Reading up on CCV mods, how come nobody runs the hose directly over the top of the turbo, and plumb it into the downpipe? The Venturi (?) would pull the vent gasses perfectly, and being so close to the turbo, with all that heat, the oil would most likely burn up as soon as it gets into the exhaust? I'm just trying to keep from running 17 feet of hose to the back of the exhaust just for it to be a pain in the ass from drooping and causing problems.

Only reason I'm thinking about it is because I saw how much oil was in the bottom of my hot side CAC when I pulled it off to fix it...

Anybody run it like that? Or seen someone who has?
You should design a catch can kit and sell it hint hint

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Super Moderator
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8,061 Posts
There are a few 6.7 guys on the org and army that run the venturi. I haven't see any issues
 

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Project Shamu
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2,411 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,449
I know theres hundreds of people that run the venturi, but they always run 15 feet away into the muffler. I'd rather the run be short and easy to service if needed.

How would it catch the crankcase on fire?

I didnt want to deal with a catch can because I still want there to be a "vacuum" on the system. Too many times have I routed CCV on other motors to the atmosphere and seals started leaking.
 

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Introducing oil vapor into a red hot exhaust.

Same principal as pouring lighter fluid on a fire that is only hot coals, touch a match to that, and ka-whoof.

Admittedly, oil is harder to catch on fire than lighter fluid, but, a white hot turbo is plenty enough to do it.

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Project Shamu
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2,411 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,451
I'm just curious how thousands of other people are routing into the exhaust with no problems? Yeah i'm a little closer and hotter but its still plenty hot 10 feet down the line.

I know my exhaust tip gets up over 600* after a long pull with the trailer, its enough to turn my tip PURPLE from heat discoloration. Well high enough to ignite oil (~450* ignition). So whats the difference?
 

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The difference is about 300 degrees. If your pyro in the exhaust manifold is reading
1200* on a hard pull, the downpipe is going to be in the neighborhood of 900*.

If you are set on doing this, these literally thousands of people doing it, are doing further away from the turbo, far enough to not cause problems.

Personally, I'd worry about it every mile.

I like Mikey's suggestion, if you built a catch can, and plumbed it into your intake like you have now, I think it would satisfy your needs.

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I wouldn't put it right up next to the turbo but I wouldnt worry if you toss it in at the bottom of the down pipe when it turns towards the back of the truck.
They have specific ccv filter to do the job but they are expensive and you have to change the filter. Trying to have adequate flow and trying to catch all the vapor and make it fall out and collect would be a challenge
 

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Native Texan
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If i could find a proper container some course steel wool should take most of the oil out of the vapors and drop it back into the can then its just a matter of venting it back into the intake then its exactly the same. My thoughts have the vapors come in the bottom go thru steel wool and vent out the top then excess oil drains back into valve cover

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Was pondering that as well, if possible use aluminum, maybe a discarded auto trans pan?, And mount it in the air stream somewhere to aid in cooling/condensing the oil.

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Project Shamu
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2,411 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,456 (Edited)
I'll keep looking into the catch can thing, and see if i come up with anything.

Yesterday I did finally put my 10.5 in the back of Shamu. Took about 5 hrs with a buddy and 2 separate trips to Ford and O'reilly's. Trip to ford was for some TA-31 RTV, as I pulled mine out of the toolbox and found a half a tube completely hardened... Then the trip to O'reilly's because I needed to rent a brake line flaring tool, Ford and their infinite wisdom put 2 different sized brake lines on the axle (right where they screw into the T block, the passenger side is a larger fitting than the driver!), so I just cut the end, pulled off the old fitting and slid on a new one so that both sides were the same, and re-flared it. Normally this wouldn't happen, but I have a custom brake line from the frame with -3 AN fittings and an aftermarket T-block. Most guys will re-use their t-block.

Got the axle installed, along with my new airbag mounts (easier to R&R now, much simpler, and stronger). Now I'm running 3.73 gears in the rear, with an open diff (compared to my factory 4.10 and TracLok), so someday I want to step up to 4.30s and a TruTrac, which will match my front axle. I also just welded on the stock shock mounts, so I need to touch those up with some of the Stainless Steel paint. An yes, you can weld right over this paint, it seems to be a little tough to get it started at first, but then welds very smooth on top of that, doesn't seem to contaminate at all. I also need to zip tie the VSS wiring and the vent hose a little better, but we were in a hurry late last night. Another plus is the axle is 3" wider overall, so it matches the front axle. Looks much better with a little more width.

RPMs went from 1800 at 65mph to about 1680, so I'm curious to see any MPG differences. No difference in power, and my buddy thinks it pulls harder now! Gonna have to get used to shifting into 4th at 43mph compared to the 37mph it used to be, but thats no big deal. Braking power seems to be improved with a little better pedal feel, so long sh*tty drums.

PICS!
200464

200466
200465


As for the new airbag mounts, I waterjetted a 5/8" thick baseplate for the ubolts to go through, then laser cut a 1/4" thick plate that formed into a C Shape with a 5/8" thick rib down the center. Then the u-bolt runs through the base of both plates and tightens down, keeping both in place. Torqued to 140ft/lbs, and no deformation of the material. Saves about 5lbs per side compared to the last version.

200468
 

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Project Shamu
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2,411 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,457
On another good note, I'm pretty sure I'm removing the bed next week and finishing it up and sending it off to powdercoat. Getting "Black Diamond Textured" powder on everything. I hope it looks good!
 
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