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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
The EZweld is a Tig filler rod that is specifically designed for cast iron to cast iron or cast iron to steel welding. Website states that the filler material uses a special form of iron. Website is Home - EZ Weld TIG Wire. The new pulley is cast iron as I couldn't find a machined steel pulley (plenty of stamped steel pulleys which are no good for this application). Knowing cast iron's amazing reputation for welding, I did some research before trying to weld the stuff. I know about N99 rod, while testing/practicing I could weld with it, but the welds weren't all that clean looking. Somehow in one of my searches the Ezweld Tig wire popped up, I was intrigued so I bought some to try. The ezweld filler rod went down really nice during my practice welds. When the weather warms up again I'll have another go at some cast iron - I have a Cummins v504 diesel engine that needs the exhaust manifold welded back together.

Just don't do like @Lt.Dan and tease us with OBS mods whilst purchasing a 6.7 :ROFLMAO:
I don't know how much LtDan is making there in the PRofCali... he must be doing better than me. I can't even come close to affording one of those fancy newfangled trucks :). I know that the new automatics are really good in terms fuel economy, but I'm still stuck in the dark ages of a manual transmission.There is something primal about rowing a non-synco-ed 10 speed transmission ;).
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Guess I'd better update my profile... I don't think the "otherwise stock" still applies :ROFLMAO::LOL::ROFLMAO:
 
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Well, your exhaust manifold will be a good test of their no pre heat claims. Exhaust manifolds are tricky, lots of heat and slow cool have always been the key to any chance of success. I really like the Rotty in the welding hood on their home page!

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
Ok.... As mentioned not too long ago I purchased and have now installed PHP Hydra. I'm using PHP's standard tunes. To collect data I have FORScan with an OBDLink Ex adapter. I have watching the PCM's "calculated torque" via FORScan to confirm how much power the engine is producing. Both the +40 and +65 horsepower tunes do seem to give the ol' truck more power, BUT either FORScan or the PCM is clipping the "calculated torque" so it only reports a max of 420 ftlb of torque. Has anyone else seen this??

On the PCM side of things... I have a DPC-203 PCM with ALF6 software. IS there anywhere I can find/get a copy of the original source code? I would like to dig through the actual program that runs the truck to learn more about how the PCM is running. I may be up in the night on this one, but still it would be nice to tweak the code a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
So I made some progress on the compressor bracket today. As long as the sun was out it was pleasant, otherwise cold. Had to cut the welds loose to move the base forward 3/16ths of an inch. Looks like the belt is now lined up... and way too long...
Machine Gear Engineering Automotive engine part Engine


Getting the second (rear) support welded in proved a bit tricky. I took the compressor off and got the rear mount bolted on then bolted the main bracket back into the truck. There was no easy way to get the welder in to tack the rear support so I drew a couple of lines on mount plate, pulled the main bracket back out and drilled a couple of holes through it. With the main bracket reinstalled I was able to weld down through the plate to tack it together. I unplugged both the IDM and PCM before welding just to be safe.
Iron Metal Synthetic rubber Nut Collection


After tacking it I pulled the complete bracket back out to finish welding and maybe paint it too. I also cut the end off the rear support as it stuck out the side a bit.
Glove Tool Steel
 
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Looks like you got some skills boy! How much clearance do you have around that coolant hose and such? Doesn't look like much with how much the ole 7.3 jumps around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Thanks Dan! I do all right. There isn't much clearance... It does have me a bit worried. I have ground the base plate where it goes around the pipe to give it a bit more room. I maybe able to move the pump a bit closer to the alternator to open up additional space on that side.
 

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Cool mod, read/skimmed it and have a few questions

How do you drive the trans, no clutch or double? How does it shift compared to a big engine (if you have driven one). Does the old ford take off in high side 1st?

I think you are trying too hard for a compressor. The air shift requires very little volume or pressure, I've even seen trans with the air taken our and a manual shifter installed for applications without a air compressor. I've driven trucks with so little air that the brakes were still half engaged (40-60psi)and still can make the high/low shift faster than I can grab a gear.

A simple tiny tire 12v air upper wired up should have plenty to do the shift especially when you can pre select it. I don't think a tank is even needed for this. I do understand the want of a air tank but you have 6 months+ in this project and a quality 12v big size air upper does that pretty good with the size of tires I see in your pictures.

Good luck I'll be following!
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
cfherrman,

Thanks for reading.

How do you drive the trans, no clutch or double?
No clutch. I have tried doubling clutching, but I find that rev matching is easier and quicker.
How does it shift compared to a big engine (if you have driven one).
Unfortunately, I can't answer this as I have never driven a big diesel... someday I hope. I'd like to see how it compares as well.
Does the old ford take off in high side 1st?
Uphill you have to ride it quite a bit, level ground not as much, and downhill it starts nicely. I typically start out in 5th low then skip over to 2 high. If I'm not in a hurry I'll skip to 4 high. Getting on the highway I usually row 3 - 4 - 5 high. Keep in mind that I have 3.55 gears in the axles.
I think you are trying too hard for a compressor. The air shift requires very little volume or pressure, I've even seen trans with the air taken our and a manual shifter installed for applications without a air compressor. I've driven trucks with so little air that the brakes were still half engaged (40-60psi)and still can make the high/low shift faster than I can grab a gear.
Perhaps ;). Between the family (wife and 4 kiddos - oldest is 12), a full time job, and moonlighting as a machinist, spare time is in short supply. I'm in no hurry though, which is part of why it is taking so long. I have a 5 gallon tank in the bed that I fill up once every week or so. I don't have warm shop to park the truck in to work on so cold weather slows me down as well. I have also been working on some electronic stuff to read and display temperatures from the thermocouples I have installed in the up-pipes. I also plan to add temperature sensors to the transmission and rear end and have them read out on the display as well. I grab some pictures of the electronic stuff tonight to post.

Cj
 

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It's so interesting I'd love to drive it someday (can wish can't I)

I would definitely recommend shifting without the clutch, can't break anything that way.

I figured you would skip a ton of low gears as typically 4-5 is 20 mph in a lot of trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Any issues with the intercooler setup so far?
So far it has been fine. By feel it is cooling the charge air, but I don't have temperature sensors in it yet. Someday soon i hope. What out for intercoolers with plastic endcaps.. I have read that they seem to fail more often.
 
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Discussion Starter · #153 · (Edited)
Seems it has been a while without any updates... So EGTS. I'm not a fan of the Edge readers so I created my own. As a reminder I installed 2 K type thermocouples in the up pipes of my exhaust system when I put the transmission in. So here it is in the wire frying, bug smoking, and of course the "why in the &%&$&# isn't my code working???" phase. The blue squares in the left upper section on the proto board are K type thermocouple readers.
Passive circuit component Circuit component Resistor Breadboard Hardware programmer
Passive circuit component Circuit component Handwriting Hardware programmer Breadboard

Well hard to have a bunch of loose wires in the cab and I really dislike point to point bread-boarding so I tried my hand at creating my own circuit boards. Sure looks nice in purple (the only color offered by the prototyping company).
Hand Purple Finger Violet Nail

Adding parts:
Purple Computer hardware Font Electronic device Electronic instrument

All assembled:
Passive circuit component Circuit component Computer Personal computer Electronic instrument

Drat!! Made a wiring mistake in the board after all. And then realized I cut the wrong wire while trying to fix double drat!! But hey for a first try...
Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic component Electrical wiring

I upgraded the display when I moved over to the finished board. I got one with a backlight so I can see it at night driving around. It also give me the ability to display up to 8 temperatures. I have the capacity to expand the reader to handle four thermocouples and four temperature sensitive resistors (white connectors on the front of the board).
Computer Electrical wiring Computer hardware Electricity Technology

And here it is all boxed up with a pair of thermocouples plugged in.
Wood Table Data transfer cable Communication Device Gadget

It has been really nice being able to see what the exhaust temps are. Especially towing the forklift to help a friend/coworker out when his kids bought some used metal working machinery from work. It was 107* the day I towed the forklift up to his place to drop it off. EGTs were steady around 1150* at 60 mph in 9th gear (direct drive) on the RTO6610. I still need to get a temperature sensor installed the transmission and another in the rear axle. The following morning I picked up the machinery (a bridgeport style mill and 2 maunal lathes - around 10k Lbs) and after work drove it all up to his place where we unloaded it (it was 105* that day).

Cj
 

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That looks great! Completely beyond anything I ever considered. ( I'm still banging rocks together trying to get a spark.)
I bet you could sell those if you wanted to, that's a complaint I hear often among the towing and off road community is no way to monitor diff temps and such.
How did you go about hiding the brain box and mounting the screen?
Any way to expand to read pressures?

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
Hey Blue!
( I'm still banging rocks together trying to get a spark.)
I call horse****. I've seen evidence of some of your adventures. Some cool stuff you've gotten up to.

How did you go about hiding the brain box and mounting the screen?
There is a long ribbon cable that attaches to LCD. In a future revision I'm tempted to try serial communication with the LCD. At the moment this was quick and easy.

Any way to expand to read pressures?
Easily. Just need to calibrate a pressure sensor and adapt an input to read it. Possibilities are almost endless with a little electronic trickery.

I bet you could sell those if you wanted to, that's a complaint I hear often among the towing and off road community is no way to monitor diff temps and such.
Hmmm.. I don't have an ear in the offroad crew. I picked a standard Amphenol GE-1711 engine temperature sensor to run with. Got them from digikey.com. Just need to finish installing them and I'll have the transmission and rear axle temps. They are good up to 180*C (about 350*F).

Cj
 

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For some money I'll sell you a engine controller, some sensors, and a wire loom. Only mentioning this is there are plenty of solutions for reading sensors.

I love the op's solution, basically a custom engine controller, you should also look into Arduino
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
cfherrman,

I love the op's solution, basically a custom engine controller, you should also look into Arduino
I wouldn't call it an engine controller.... more like an independent watchman that gives me visibility into what is happening in the engine. I'm familiar with Arduinos. Lots to like about them. Large hobbyist user base that have created custom "libraries" for just about anything you could want - displays, sensors, servo controls, the list goes on. I stuck with what I'm intimately familiar with this time, but the next revision I'm leaning to switching to Arduino. IMO, if MicroChip (the manufacturer of the microprocessor I used) had been a little less stingy with their development tools I really think they would be the microprocessor powering Arduino today, but that is neither here nor there. I really think it would be cool to up and build my own PCM for the 7.3 engine.. maybe someday.

Cj
 
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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
So made some more progress... The differential has been leaking for some time and as I wasn't sure just how much oil was left I figured it was time. While I was at it I added the temperature sensor port that can also double as a drain hole. Just off the lathe with the rough angle band sawed:
Calipers Tool Auto part Font Bullet

Drilling the hole in the diff cover:
Reptile Gas Scaled reptile Automotive tire Machine

Welded together:
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Bumper Luggage and bags
Automotive tire Wood Gas Rim Door

So originally I was just going to paint the cover black.. My 5 year old son decided that black was "very boring" and requested that we paint the cover blue. Fortunately, I had a can of blue in the garage that was up to snuff. The nut was there to protect the threads from getting too much paint in them.
Water Hood Automotive tire Blue Automotive lighting

All installed with the sensor in place as the plug. Now to pull the wires through the loom (at the rate I move - it might be next spring).
Vehicle Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Helmet
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
I'll let him know!
 
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