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Why limit yourself to a 7.3 superduty degas bottle? Pretty much any bottle will work. How about a 6.0 one. It’s meant to stuff up against the fire wall. Or hell even a gasser 6.2 might work.
 
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Discussion Starter #102
That might go in just fine in the spot that the current one sits in and still leave me some extra room. Thanks!
 

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That's a clever idea sbluke!!

I think the bottles for some of the Ford cars used the same size hose, lots of options.......

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Discussion Starter #104
So got the coolant pump out tonight... and discovered a couple of things. I determined why my serpentine belts always wanted to shred the 8th V-groove. It appears that the entire bearing package in the water pump shifted forward which moved the pump pulley into a position where the V-groove closest to the engine would ride up on the side and come apart (sorry I didn't get a picture of the bearing package before I pressed the pump apart). As can be seen the water pump vanes have worn into the front surface quite bad.
Coolant pump 2.jpg
Another shot of the now disassembled pump (I bent the fins when I removed it). There is about 3/32nds of an inch removed from the blade tips. Add the amount that was removed from the housing and my guess is that the bearings slipped by about an 5/32nds of an inch (possibly even a little more).
Coolant pump 3.jpg
It looks like the displaced bearings stretched the rubber wet seal out till it finally failed a couple of days ago (look down in the middle of the spring).
Coolant pump 4.jpg
Here's one for you Blue (I think you're the one who has the random "what tool did you have to make to take your truck apart" thread). A couple of taps with the hammer and the fan clutch spun right off. I couldn't bring myself to grind the end thinner on the end wrench I have.
Coolant pump tool.jpg
 

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Nice. Glad it happened relatively close to home. Was that a factory pump or do you know?

As for the tool, nice! Mine is a little longer, made out of a broken spring leaf. Now @heavydoc has the right idea, he has one that goes on his air hammer! ( One particular tool I'm jealous of)

On the radiator, the IDI radiator has the inlet on the passenger side, outlet on the driver side. The lower hose would be easier than stock, as it would do away with the cross over underneath, the upper, however, would require some thinking. There may be a factory hose available, as they used that radiator in the early (94) Powerstroke trucks, too my understanding anyway. I don't know what you found on Rock Auto, I've never seen an IDI with plastic tanks. Not to say it's impossible, but I've never seen it. Gas trucks had cross flows with plastic tanks.

Link to what I'm talking about

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Discussion Starter #106 (Edited)
I'm not sure on water pump being factory or not. Are there any features or markings that can identify a factory unit?

As for the radiator... More Information for SPECTRA PREMIUM CU1165
that is listed as being the radiator from a 1995 7.3. Sure looks like plastic capped radiator to me. There are matching hoses on RockAuto as well. Even has the transmission cooler built in as well. I have been thinking about plumbing my RTO and actively cooling it when it gets hot.

Edit: Blue I just looked at your link more closely and the part# and brand is the same as the one I found on RockAuto, but the pictures show very different products. Reviews on parts geek indicate that their part has plastic caps.
 

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Sure enough, plastic tanks in all their glory. Personally I'd stay away from that one, I've had bad luck with aftermarket plastic filler necks, that's just me. I've never had one from rock auto. The aftermarket aluminum's have been good. Currently using one from Northern, it's been great, very efficient fine core. But, the filler neck is small, annoying but liveable.

I like the cooler idea.

If you want pictures of factory mounts let me know, I can possibly get you some this evening or tonight.

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Discussion Starter #108
Well... What the Hell... may as well do everything at once. As the water pump died and I still have a few days to chill (I ordered one from Riff Raff, but it was damaged so Clay is sending out a new one - Thanks Clay!) I figured that it was time to fit the intercooler (lots of room to work right now).
No Grill.jpg
No lights.jpg
No anything.jpg
Now to drill holes... i don't remember where I learned this trick, but it sure is handy when you need to drill a hole in something with a hole saw and you can't use the pilot drill (good for uneven surfaces too).
3p5 inch hole.jpg
3p5 inch hole1.jpg
Well drat... 3.5 inch holes are not big enough... lets try 4.25 inch holes.
4p25 inch hole.jpg
Much better. Intercooler fits right in and has room to move a bit for final location. I ended up bending the lower mounts for the condenser toward the radiator a bit to allow the intercooler to fit behind the grill mount without rubbing on it. The bent tabs also allow the intercooler to match the angle of the condenser and radiator. I still need to grind down the ouside corners of the top mount tabs so they will fit under the radiused corners of the core support (I prefer to not to cut the body metal). I still have lower and upper intercooler mounts to fabricate.
First fit.jpg
I also played with the intercooler pipes and they will need a bit of massaging as well as a few more inches. I know that CSD makes a set, but I have an additional problem with the CSD pipe route (Thanks for the picture of your setup Lt.Dan!! - I have been looking at them very closely). As I said... why not do it all. I got looking at the top end where I want to install the York compressor and low and behold....
Air pump with intercooler pipe.jpg
And It Fits with the intercooler pipe installed! I got looking at the electrical routing and realized that one of the harnesses can be moved elsewhere to get it out of the way of the air compressor. I will need to make a longer cable to run to the starter, but I need to do that anyway to clear the intercooler. I'm going to buy 1/0 welding wire for the battery to battery interconnect, then run a 2/0 welding cable down to the starter. I have a bottom mount plate for the York already to go. I now need to make a plate to mate up to the 2 holes below and a little left of the alternator pulley, which will be the primary support for the York and tensioner pulley. Then I'll create a second plate to act as a brace that will attach to the bolt that can be seen behind the dangling connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
By the way Blue,
I think I'll be able to keep the standard degas bottle and radiator. Being able to move the wire harness will make a big difference in how the York fits.
 

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Run a 3/0 starter wire. 1/0 is plenty for batt to batt. I believe stock is 2 gauge. While your making wires might as well do the big 3 mod. Wire from alt to drivers batt, positive and negative. Run the negative to the hold down bolt. Then block to frame. Be sure to fuse your positive wire.

Is your cac tubes aluminum? Also inspect the drives side one for a hole. They tend to rub the power steering box.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Sbluke,

Already got a 4/0 cable for battery to starter and 2/0 cable for battery to battery (I don't have the usual Ford starter.. figured I'd go a bit overkill). I'll look into the big 3 mod.
Run the negative to the hold down bolt.
I would hazard that this ground is the hold down bolt for the alternator? What size fuse would you recommend on the power wire from the alternator. I'll look at getting this done next.

Thanks,

Cj
 

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How many amps is your alt? I would say if it's a stocker 200 amp.
Yes one of the gold down bolts.
 
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Discussion Starter #114
I forgot to answer your other question. The intercooler pipes are steel or aluminized steel. They are both in good shape with no holes or wear marks.
 

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Discussion Starter #115
Just a quick update... new compressor bracket design:
Compressor Bracket.JPG
Now to get it made (I sure wish you were closer Lt.Dan!). New battery interconnect and starter wires.
Wiring.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #116
Still making slow progress. Good thing the wife hasn't needed the van with all this Covid business. As there were a nicely placed pair of holes in the front support the upper mounts were fast and easy to mill up.
IMG_20200620_131727075.jpg

Lower mounts proved to be a bit more intensive... and I broke one (you can see it on the left) when I attempted to bend it slightly to match the angle of the intercooler lower rubber grommet. I thought 6061 had a bit more bend.
IMG_20200620_161426945.jpg

Drilled a pair of holes on each side of the intercooler in the front support to match up with my lower brackets. I ended up taking the brackets to work where I cut up the good one and then rewelded them both back together. For a complete guess I got the angles pretty darn close. Here is the passenger side mounted.
IMG_20200625_183907560.jpg

Started putting the front clip back together.
IMG_20200625_193721706.jpg

And I still have some room for wiggle. There is just shy of 3/8 inch clearance between the intercooler and the plastic grill support. I did have to cut the tab (probably meant for some sort of air temp sensor) that was in the middle of the grill support.
IMG_20200625_194558809.jpg

I see what you mean Lt.Dan... the stock pipes really don't play well in the OBS. Unfortunately, I'm unable to go with the CSD pipes as the cold side pipe goes right though the space where I will mount my compressor. So it will be death by a thousand cuts... as I need to move the pipe tip to the passenger side by 1.5 inches and down 2 inches or so.
IMG_20200625_225031235.jpg

And now it is raining on and off so I may or may not be able to get the first cuts made tonight. Thar be the latest.
 

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That tool you made for the fan clutch is AWESOME, I sure could have used something like that last year when I worked on mine. That was a nightmare and knee / shin breaker!
 

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Discussion Starter #118
Grabloids - thanks. Plasma cutter and grinder with some 0.25 inch steel flat stock and voila! In my case it was a knuckle buster. Not to mention that when just trying to wrench it off the fan/pulley would slip on the belt.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Two nights of cutting and fitting (plus an early morning and lunch at work TIG welding) later and the intercooler pipes are done and in the truck. On the cool side I had to shorten the section that comes over the valve cover by an 1 or so. I then added 4 or 5 inches to the straight section that goes down to the intercooler connection. I also rotated the tip around a bit to clear the radiator support.
Cut 1 cool side.jpg Cut 2 cool side.jpg

On the hot side I cut the upper section and added a 3 inch pipe. I also had to cut and rotate the intercooler connection to line up with the inter cooler itself. I'm really pleased with the way all the parts fit. I originally bend the A/C lines up to clear the top of the pipe but after I was done I ended up bending them back down into their original positions to fit below the intercooler pipe.
Cuts Hot side.jpg

All done. Why did Ford not include an intercooler from the get go???
Intercooler piping done.jpg

Battery cables fit in nicely too.
Battery cables.jpg

Did I mention that all this is happening while I have construction crews out front adding curb,gutter and side walk? I found out last night at 5 that they would be pouring concrete today and if I didn't get the truck out of the drive way last night I'd be stuck for another week and a half (and the wife needs the van next week). I think I finally finished cleaning out the coolant system around 11:30 last night. So there it is.

Next up - I'm waiting on the water jet guy's quote for the compressor mounting bracket parts.

Cheers,

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #120
Shaun aka Sbluke (It is Shaun?) I just saw your post on Lt.Dan's Project Shamu thread. Once I have a driveway again I'll pull the hot pipe and add a port for the MAP sensor. I'd kind of like to see what the gas mileage does with the MAP sensor hooked up to the original port as I have heard rumor that the gas mileage changes depending on hot side or cold side attachment.
So far it looks like I can keep the original degas bottle when I add the compressor.
 
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