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With the clutch and flywheel in place getting the transmission back in was a bit trickier.. with the exhaust down pipe dangling and the engine tilted down as far as I could get it, I managed to slide the transmission up and into place. I used 3 10 inch long 3/8 bolts with the heads removed as guides. I really dislike the plastic friction plate centering tool (next time I do this I’ll go buy a spare input shaft to use as the centering tool) as the first try I couldn’t get the transmission to line up with the pilot bearing. After about an hour and a half of fighting (this is at midnight in the middle of December outside mind you) the alignment in the cold I got the bright idea to lean on the clutch throw out arm to pull the clutch in.. As soon as the pressure came off and the friction plate was allowed to slip, the housings came together and I was in business. As my transmission to transfer case adapter makes bolting the 2 together difficult I pre-assembled them prior to mating the transmission to the engine (sorry no pictures.. my photographer didn’t want to join me in the freezing cold – this happened over Thanksgiving 2018). After raising the transmission into position I added the new rear member and bolted it all together. I also put the original rear member back in as extra insurance.


Agreed on the spare input shaft that plastic alignment tool is almost worthless.


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Discussion Starter #23
I actually did most of the work described here much earlier in the process – long before I put the transmission in the truck. I knew when I started that the Eaton shift tower was going to be too tall and too far back (it would have come up right in front of the seat). In my initial guesstimates I figured the shift tower would end up 5 to 7 inches behind the original position. So after taking some careful measurements and sketching the Eaton tower setup, I then started to change the pivot point until I had a reasonable compromise between a reduced height tower and how much “swing” I would have at the top of the shift lever. As my new idea didn’t work with the original tower parts, I designed my own gimble and a friend with a cnc lathe machined a new finger to mate with the shift forks. A shot of the new shift tower bolted to the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
The fellow I bought the transmission from picked up a vertical lever/shift tower for me when I drove up to purchase the transmission. As that wasn’t going to work, I cut it all up (and down) beat it up with my press and welded it back together as a shortened 90 degree tower. Most of the re-assembly happened in January (2019).
 

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Discussion Starter #25
On to the clutch setup.. Typically these transmissions are hooked up with a mechanical linkage, although I have seen a hydraulic setup that bolts to the bottom of the bellhousing on ebay. After digging around under the hood I decided that it might be easier to keep the hydraulic system verses trying to come up with a set of rods and pivots to maneuver the linkage around all the lines, electrical and chassis parts that were in the way. My first attempt was a disaster.. I had measured the bore and stroke of both the master cylinder and slave in order to calculate the correct offsets for the various parts of the clutch linkage. The lever arm on the transmission itself required a linear move of about 2.2 inches to disengage the clutch and squeeze the clutch brake. A little math and here is the first linkage all mounted and ready to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hmm.. just one problem with version 1, I can only get a partial release of the clutch. Not even close to enough movement to get close to the clutch brake. For those of you that are not familiar with commercial transmissions (at least the older ones), the transmission is not synchronized. In order to make the first shift after waiting at a stop light the driver pushes the clutch all the way to the floor. In doing so, the throwout bearing pushes up against a small disk that is connected to the splines on the input shaft of the transmission. When the disk is squished between the throwout bearing and the transmission it stops the input shaft from spinning allowing the driver to get the transmission into first gear. After some head scratching, I determined that Ford does not use the complete travel of the master clutch cylinder (about 1.6 inches), instead the system only uses about 1.20 inches of travel. This translated into a slave movement of about 0.5 inches where I was expecting about 0.75 inches of movement. For reference the master cylinder bore is 0.875 inches in diameter and the slave cylinder bore diameter is 1.25 inches. At this point I had two options. One – move the slave cylinder linkage closer to the pivot (costing mechanical efficiency and it puts lot of stress on the pivot). Two – find a different slave with a smaller bore for a longer travel. After a bit of looking around I settled on the slave cylinder out of a 2002 F350 with the 7.3. The new slave has a bore of 21 mm or about 0.827 inches which gives a stroke of 1.36 inches with the original master cylinder. So still not enough stroke for a direct push, but the longer stroke of the new slave did allow me to move it connection point farther from the pivot and still get the needed 2.2 inch push distance.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok almost there. Buttoning up.. few final details. With all the cutting I did to fit the clutch linkage, I had to come up with a new cover to fit over the hole in the side of the transmission tunnel. Lots of pounding, a bunch of cutting, a bit of welding and here is the new hump. I tried to give it as much clearance from the gas petal as possible. As there is no air compressor on board I found someone locally selling a Viair compressor setup and I was able to get a tank and twin compressors for a Ben Franklin. Attached it all to a board to hold it together (still sitting in the bed of the truck). There were several holes in the bed from the previous owner through which I ran the power and air lines. I have noticed that the transmission does leak some air. I’m thinking about putting a 12v solenoid valve between the tank and transmission to help reduce the losses. I currently don’t have the compressor controls wired to the ignition. Eventually, I’d like to move the compressor down under the bed of the truck, but I need to fab up a box that it can live in. I still need to rebuild the linkage to the transfer case. At this point, I’m thinking I’ll just get the 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive positions working (and maybe later I’ll figure out how to manage the transfer case neutral and 4 wheel low shift points cause with a 7.20 first gear who needs 4 wheel low? LOL). I’m also considering added some additional sound deading materials to the cab to reduce the noise. And here's Jumbo (well now Jumbo Frankenstein) just after I got it all (mostly) put back together (Pic was taken mid January (2019)..... and yes the swap was done outside). So thar she blow... an Eaton-fuller in a Ford - if anyone thinks I've missed something please ask. As of right now I have 6000 miles on the transmission and I tested it pulling this bugger home. It sure is slick towing heavy. Forklift and trailer are about 19500#.
 

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Looks great! Lots of neat engineering in that project.

One question though, did you try to source a different shift top for that box? Not the tower but the top.

In the bigger transmissions there were three options, rear shift, ( like yours I think), center, and front. I thought that the smaller boxes had the same option, but not sure.

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Looks great! Lots of neat engineering in that project.

One question though, did you try to source a different shift top for that box? Not the tower but the top.

In the bigger transmissions there were three options, rear shift, ( like yours I think), center, and front. I thought that the smaller boxes had the same option, but not sure.

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I was thinking the same with with the shift top cover ...


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Discussion Starter #30
Longjon, Blue,

The parts manual for the RT series transmissions does not indicate that there are other options available for the top cover (looks like the top cover is ("no longer available")... There is a low profile shift tower option and a 90* shift lever that is available, but I don't see any other shift covers. There are a number of discontinued part numbers, perhaps in the past there were other options. I think the RT6610 transmission had its heyday around in the 80's and early 90's while the RT610 went back to the late 60's and 70's. Keep in mind that this is not the full sized 10 speed - this is the "baby 10" so the options are probably a bit different.

Cj
 

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CJ,

Did some looking around, I looked at a late 70's transmission behind a big IHC gas engine, and a mid 80's behind a 3208 Cat, both have the same shift top as yours. So possibly this is more confirmation that your parts manual is correct. Only 1 option.

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Discussion Starter #32
Blue,

Thanks for looking. Where did you find the trucks? The manuals I have are from Eaton-Fuller. I have the parts and the rebuild manuals for the RT 610/6610 and the RT 613/6613 transmissions.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well... had the first major hiccup in the transmission setup. This weekend the Viair pumps both decided to grenade. Pump one somehow overloaded and melted/burned its wiring. Pump 2 has a scored cylinder wall and will not build pressure. Might be time to look for a more... commercial pump setup. Any recommendations? I have seen a belt driven Vmac setup for the 7.3 which would be really slick, but crazy expensive. I know that International installed belt driven piston pumps on their commercial T444e engines. Let me know what you all think. For the moment I have a 10 gallon tank with a valve on it that I'll fill every morning before going to work.

Thanks,

Cj
 

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Well... had the first major hiccup in the transmission setup. This weekend the Viair pumps both decided to grenade. Pump one somehow overloaded and melted/burned its wiring. Pump 2 has a scored cylinder wall and will not build pressure. Might be time to look for a more... commercial pump setup. Any recommendations? I have seen a belt driven Vmac setup for the 7.3 which would be really slick, but crazy expensive. I know that International installed belt driven piston pumps on their commercial T444e engines. Let me know what you all think. For the moment I have a 10 gallon tank with a valve on it that I'll fill every morning before going to work.



Thanks,



Cj


Find a York A/c compressor and convert that to pump your air ....


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Discussion Starter #36
LongJohn,

I had seen the Yorks... but didn't realize that they could be converted.. (https://www.hemmings.com/blog/article/york-tecumseh-compressors/). I have to stare at my truck tonight to see where I might be able to shoe horn one in. Have you seen any Yorks with serpentine pulleys on them? Might also be a good time to get a new pulley for the fan/water pump that has the correct offset.
 

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LongJohn,



I had seen the Yorks... but didn't realize that they could be converted.. (https://www.hemmings.com/blog/article/york-tecumseh-compressors/). I have to stare at my truck tonight to see where I might be able to shoe horn one in. Have you seen any Yorks with serpentine pulleys on them? Might also be a good time to get a new pulley for the fan/water pump that has the correct offset.


http://www.acpartshouse.com/inventory/121860-york-8-groove-clutch-assembly

That should work.


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CJ,

Fire up the Google, and check out a site called TruckersAC.com

I remember lots of good diagrams and pulley options on there. If you strike out there, I'll go through my notes for other sources.

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Just a thought, through engineering and mechanical wizardry, you could PTO drive a compressor head under the truck. Possibly even a large head giving you the ability to air tires and run air tools off the truck.

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Discussion Starter #40
Blue,

Thanks for the link... Looks like they have a nice selection. As for the PTO drive. I have thought about it. But, I'm not sure it will all fit under the truck :grin:.

Cj
 

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