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College Student
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Discussion Starter #1
Im pretty confident my mechanical fuel pump is leaking and instead of replacing it again with another, I want to go fuel instead.
My question is if I should do a full diy, or source a system from a 2000 or so 7.3 from a wrecking yard. The only reason is that most of the system should bolt up to most of the existing hardware in theory right? It is not that hard to find a wrecked 7.3 in my area at a wrecking yard.

Would I run into a problem of running the fuel lines to the back of the heads using the newer system or would they go in no problem?
Another question I have is how would I avoid warning lights with the water in fuel lights and what not.
The main reason I am tempted to find a newer 7.3 system is because I dont have a place nor equipment to fabricate mounts or that sort of stuff.

Any thoughts or opinions would be nice.
Thanks.
 

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Project Shamu
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Itd be more work and less rewarding to go with a 99-03 system.

Definitely go with an aftermarket kit if you dont want to make one yourself.
 

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Im pretty confident my mechanical fuel pump is leaking and instead of replacing it again with another, I want to go fuel instead.
My question is if I should do a full diy, or source a system from a 2000 or so 7.3 from a wrecking yard. The only reason is that most of the system should bolt up to most of the existing hardware in theory right? It is not that hard to find a wrecked 7.3 in my area at a wrecking yard.

Would I run into a problem of running the fuel lines to the back of the heads using the newer system or would they go in no problem?
Another question I have is how would I avoid warning lights with the water in fuel lights and what not.
The main reason I am tempted to find a newer 7.3 system is because I dont have a place nor equipment to fabricate mounts or that sort of stuff.

Any thoughts or opinions would be nice.
Thanks.
Well,? What do you want to spend is the question. On one of my 97's I completely reworked it's fuel system cause the OEM is JUNK!!!! I went with a A1000 Marine pump and the fuel lines I bought off Swamps they are 5/8" and then it goes into 2" after the secondary filter. Filter heads are just your standard nothing fancy with adequate size inlets and Naper filters 15 micron I think the secondary is 5 micron. I'm happy wif it!
 

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College Student
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214 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Looking around I found that people are putting in an oil pressure safety switch, but my question is how is this being done. So far I found a link to a wiring kit, but it is out of stock and seems a bit high for a few wires and a sensor.
https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2804-obs-fuel-pump-harness.aspx

I know leaving the pump on for a while will burn it up without the pickup running, but am I better off not worrying about it and just running a direct power from a key ignition source with a 30 amp fuse in it?

Another question is about the aeromotive regulator commonly used. Is there a diesel specific one or is any one good?
 

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Project Shamu
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Looking around I found that people are putting in an oil pressure safety switch, but my question is how is this being done. So far I found a link to a wiring kit, but it is out of stock and seems a bit high for a few wires and a sensor.
https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2804-obs-fuel-pump-harness.aspx

I know leaving the pump on for a while will burn it up without the pickup running, but am I better off not worrying about it and just running a direct power from a key ignition source with a 30 amp fuse in it?

Another question is about the aeromotive regulator commonly used. Is there a diesel specific one or is any one good?
The oil pressure safety switch is a very good idea to have, but without a controller, I don't think the pump will run before the truck starts, so then the truck won't prime before starting, which is kind of a bonus when ditching the mechanical pump. DieselSite sells a controller that works very well, https://www.dieselsite.com/fuelpumpcontrolmodule.aspx.

I received a pressure switch when I purchased my harness from BAR NONE DIESEL, but I left it out. Might get some flack from people who are safety Nazi's, and they're right, but I just haven't gotten around to doing it right.

The regulators are not diesel specific, and neither is the Aeromotive A1000 pump. The A1000 is NOT rated for Diesel, and will void the warranty when you run Diesel Fuel through it. The only fuel pumps that I know of, that are rated for diesel, are the stock SD pumps (which in a single or even a dual setup will support some pretty large injectors), or the FuelLab pumps (which is twice as expensive as any other pump out there, but they're supposed to be the best). I'm sure there is more pumps, but these are the only 2 I know of.

I personally am running a single SD pump, and am planning on stepping up to dual SD pumps very soon.
 

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College Student
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214 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
With my baby swamps injectors, I'm guessing that just a single SD pump is more than enough for them.
I was planning on running the SD route.

Im gonna go with the Bar None Diesel banjo bolt kit.

Im on a pretty tight budget for this and am still trying to figure out how to run the fuel pump.
I know there is a kit that is about $120 bucks, but I am winding why this is so much for what looks to be a relay and a controller that runs the really based upon oil pressure. I would like the safety feature of it, but could I for the time bing just get a generic fuel pump relay and wire it in to a ignition key source? I understand that I leaving the key on, engine off would be bad on the pump, but I rarely leave my keys on and not have to pickup running.

For a regulator, Ive seen a few that use the aeromotive regulator, but would this Fass one be the better route?
FASS Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR-1001)

Beyond the banjo bolt adapter, fuel filter setup, SD pump and regulator, all the rest of what I could find or think of what I am going to need to do is fab up a filter bracket and a way to mount the FPR. The only thing I can think of is some diesel rated fuel hose, some fittings and that is it besides the wiring for the pump.

Am I missing anything? Somewhere a fuel pressure gauge is gonna be mounted.
Im not planing on cutting the fuel lines in the valley that go to the fuel bowl, just gonna put a hose on it.
 

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Im not planing on cutting the fuel lines in the valley that go to the fuel bowl, just gonna put a hose on it.
I don’t understand husband sentence can you elaborate more?
j
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What do you mean JCart?
 

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Im not planing on cutting the fuel lines in the valley that go to the fuel bowl, just gonna put a hose on it.

I don’t understand the above sentence can you elaborate more?
j
 

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College Student
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214 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
In looking around on line, I found that some people would cut apart the banjo line and hook them up into a T or Y fitting. I also saw that some people would cut the lines from the pump and return line shorter. I dont have any of the stuff to make new lines or what not.

In looking under my truck, found that mounting the filters on the inside of the frame is pretty much impossible being that it is a single cab. My plan is to mount the filter heads to the under bed frame rails and the pump under the bed. Then potentially cut the rubber fuel hose that runs between the selector valve and where it witched to a metal line.

One thing I haven't been able to is the fitting size of the return lines on the FPR on the fuel bowl. The 90 degree elbows that connect to the return lines on the font of the heads. I am planning on having those tie into my new FPR and then go to the return lines from that. I haven't been able to find what the specs of the elbow or fittings are.

So far I have everything I think, stuff is coming the mail tomorrow and I just need to go get some 5/16 dies fuel rated lines.
 

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How about a ball valve on each side of your filter-pump-filter setup to minimize fuel spills?
 

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College Student
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Discussion Starter #12
I didn't think of that. Its all installed now. I got the two big CAT filters, so they should last me quite a while. It will be interesting to cross that bridge when I get there for minimizing spills.

The filter heads are higher than the tanks. The only thing I would have to worry about is the heads draining back I guess.
 

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Project Shamu
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Just make sure you get ball valves rated for diesel, I know swamps and a few other places sell them.
 

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College Student
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Discussion Starter #14
So far I still need to get a length of diesel rated fuel hose to replace my stuff that isn't specifically rated for diesel from O'rileys.
Besides that, everything is working. I still need to also get an electric gauge in place of my the fluid one under the hood.
 
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