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Discussion Starter #1
Is there an after market post fuel pump filter out there besides the stock one? One that wont require a lot of hacking and cutting.(I guess thats asking for too much!!) I am currently running an Air Dog 150 to a Walbro into my stock bowl. Lately I have been fighting with oil system o-rings as well as fuel bowl o-rings and that darn fuel bowl is a PITA!!! Always in the way of things. I already have my fuel water seperation and the stock one is just extra I guess. So what could I do? If I do ITPs RR I can do the filter bowl delete but I lose my last chance of filtering before the injectors. Ideas...suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm all about things being easy but I know it all comes at a price!
 

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I wouldn't run it without a post pump filter. You can just get a base and run new lines up to the motor and go to 3/8"s or bigger while your at it.
 

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Here is what I woudl suggest but I defer to those with more experince:

I see you have the Air dog 150 and also a Walbro.

The air dog 150 is good at removing air although IIRC the 100 model actually does a better job of that from what I understand but a smaller pump. Regardless you have the air removal. The issue is the air dogs actually are quite sub par at removing water from the fuel. It does a decent job at removing solids but the filters it uses at that stated max flow rates are way over taxed. The later is likely not an issue at your power levels. You also should always have a filter after your last pump before your injectors. I will post info on the air dog and other filters at the bottom


What I think the goal given what you already have is to design the system so that you get the most from everything and protect those injectors as that is a $2500 investment to replace.

Most fuel water separators are vaccum or suction side filters and not meant to deal with head pressure. Given this:


I would put a water fuel sep between the tank and your air dog. Then the final fuel filters between the walbro and the heads. Delete the fuel bowl as you are having issue with it any ways and they can tend to be a PITA and take up needless from. Get a ITP kit of DIY. For ease of changing out the filters and preventing drain back you can install a check valve right after each of the two filters you add. ADD a Aeromotive or Fuelab regulator. You can run a tube from to the map to adj fuel PSI based on boost 45 min 65 max. Then run into the return and you have a complete Reg Return as well.

Unless you add a good amount of power which your PMRs likely prevent you can likely get way without upgrading the fuel line size as you already said you do not want to be cutting and what not.;)



About the Air Dogs 100 and 150 I pulled up the filters used specs from a couple of sites:

The FS19768 which is the fuel water sep filter on the airdog models is not rated to remove any emulsified water and its only rated at 50% for free water. It also only has a solids filtering abilty of 140 microns. The thing that got me was the water separation performance. Compare that to the commonly use BF1212 (fuel water sep) 20 microns absolute, average efficiency of 86.34%, Water stripping: 97-99% free water, 92-95% emulsified water. And it has a dirt holding capacity of 35.9 grams, 579.0 sq in of filtration media, and a flow rating of 210gph that to of either of the AirDog.
the other ting I have not figured out is the ther filter the Air Do units use as their second fine filter is the FF5613. They state it as a 3 micron filter, but its really a 5 micron filter. absolute at 5 microns, 94% at 2 microns. With a flow rating of 59.97 GPH. If the Air dogs really do flow 100 and 150 GPH respectively they are pushing these filters well past their stated flow capacities.

Based on this I do not believe the Air Dogs meet the water remove minimum rating for diesel motors. I certainly would not rely on it.

For the fuel / water separator I would run a BF 1212 or FS 1212. I prefer to run Baldwin filters as they have a thicker casing than the other filter manf filters. They also have very good specs and can usually be found at most truck stops if on the road.

For the fuel filter post pump before the heads I would add a filter such as the BF7633, FS5320, CAT1R0750, or Donaldson P5513132. Also the Wix/NAPA equivalents. Pick up two 1-14 filter bases. Wix/NAPA has some low cost choices such as the 24770/4770.
 

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Nice info TARM.
 

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Thing I am interested in is the effects of using filters rated are greatly lower flow rates that the max flow rating of the setup. I also wonder if this is part of the reason the 150 may not remove air as effectively as the 100 as the situation is only made worse.

The one filter is only rated to flow close to 40% the rate the system is rated for and the other is rated way down at not quite 20 gph from what I have read. I honestly was thinking it was a mis-post and it should have read gpm but I have seen it posted in other places. I would be interested in what Pure Flow has to say on this.


At this point on my setup I am building I am going with sump -Dahl 150- pumps-fs7633. I would like to add a airdog or a DIY version if possible.
 

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TARM!! Excellent write up my friend!! I should have wrote in my first post but I ditched the pureflow filters that came with it for some fleetguard filters as well as a fleetguard fuel water seperator. Im running the FS19594 W/S, and the FF5613 as the filter. I read that the OE AD F/W seperator is 50% free and 0% emulsified water removal at 20GPH, so the FS19594 is a good improvement over the one it came with and the filter is a little improvement. My goal in the beginning was to make the truck as reliable and efficient as possible. Since my money tree STILL hasnt started growing yet I decided to do things to the truck that will make it last longer. Power is not really high on my list because 1, compliments of my PMRs, and 2, its just too darn expensive!!! Maybe in the future but till then its all about making it last!!
 

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interesting point on water separation i did not know.
In my mind ideally you get a new pickup, water separator, airdog, to a pump,
to a filter around the floor board firewall maybe, that would be a heated element 2~3 micron filter . then to a regulated return back to the tank via a 3/8 return, only I would add a fuel cooler to that.

I have seen every thing from large spinoffs to simple inline filters for the 2~3 micron filters. one thing to think about is make sure they are bio diesel compatable orings..many states seem to be adding b20 etc in..something old orings and some new ones don't like .
 

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TARM!! Excellent write up my friend!! I should have wrote in my first post but I ditched the pureflow filters that came with it for some fleetguard filters as well as a fleetguard fuel water seperator. Im running the FS19594 W/S, and the FF5613 as the filter. I read that the OE AD F/W seperator is 50% free and 0% emulsified water removal at 20GPH, so the FS19594 is a good improvement over the one it came with and the filter is a little improvement. My goal in the beginning was to make the truck as reliable and efficient as possible. Since my money tree STILL hasnt started growing yet I decided to do things to the truck that will make it last longer. Power is not really high on my list because 1, compliments of my PMRs, and 2, its just too darn expensive!!! Maybe in the future but till then its all about making it last!!
I could tell from you list you went the reliability route which I think is best to do first imo. First thing I alwasy do when I get a new/used vehicle if I plan to keep the powertrain: Change out ALL the fluids over to synthetic Schaefers for me. Including pumping out the brake and power steering systems. Coolant flush. Add bypass oil and coolant filters. Put external filters on the tranny, power steering. On diesel I do the fuel spin on sep fuel filters. I am actually adding a pre oilers to this engine as its still fairly low in miles to see how I like it for start ups.

Then I go to performance upgrades.

I am actually planning on swapping my DIY oil bypass for a fs-2500. I have been impressed with the performance I have seen from them. How do you like yours?
 

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I could tell from you list you went the reliability route which I think is best to do first imo. First thing I alwasy do when I get a new/used vehicle if I plan to keep the powertrain: Change out ALL the fluids over to synthetic Schaefers for me. Including pumping out the brake and power steering systems. Coolant flush. Add bypass oil and coolant filters. Put external filters on the tranny, power steering. On diesel I do the fuel spin on sep fuel filters. I am actually adding a pre oilers to this engine as its still fairly low in miles to see how I like it for start ups.

Then I go to performance upgrades.

I am actually planning on swapping my DIY oil bypass for a fs-2500. I have been impressed with the performance I have seen from them. How do you like yours?
I do the same thing when I get a new car, which aint often. We just got an 04 Expedition and Im still buying new fluids to do it all at once and to baseline everything. The FS-2500 is an excellent unit. Its very well made and heavy!! I just finally got it installed and havent gone 200 miles yet. BUT...so far so good. Id like to get another gauge to monitor oil pressure to see if the bypass is taking to much. The other forum I was on before coming here, everyone would say you get what you pay for. So I had inquired about it and everyone bashed it comparing it to Banks stuff. Over priced and not worth it. Everyone recommended a cheap kit as well as Amsoils setup. I said but those are cheaper, how does that work if you get what you pay for? All I got was its better than the 2500. Whatever....needless to say Im done with that forum. There is another ford guy on base that recently did a preoiler system and he said he loves it. Very easy to install as well.
 

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On another site, the Oilgard bypass was popular, had good oil test results and is half the cost of the FS=2500. I use a FS-2500 myself.
 

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The fact is I have looked at live demos of I think almsot every bypass kit out and the ONLY one that could actually filter out the soot was the Fs2500. It was also one of the cleanest to install. I have worked with much finer sub mic filters in lab setting and I can tell you for a fact that as you go smaller you can filter the color out of the liquid even its a die. But with oil the fact the FS does filter out the " black" from the oil and the oil stays lighter color for longer it is filtering finer than ones that do not. Dealing with soot there is no way around this.

I know the FS-2500 has been tested thoroughly on its effects on oil pressure. The only popular unit that had issue was the Amsoil one whihc has been fixed.

The thing with oil analyaze is even vehicles without bypass and good syn oil show within norms for a long time so its no surprise that EVERY bypass does as well. But how much better does it filter regardless of norm or acceptable ranges. Soot is a an abrasive and wear causing item. The more you pull out the less wear you have.
 

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I have only seen one or two users here with them..they loved them.
 

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I have only seen one or two users here with them..they loved them.
I love mine so far as well!! My wallet is still crying but im pretty sure the oil sample results will show its worth it!!
 

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DO I think its a bit over priced for what it is ? Yes a bit. But at the same time I believe it is easily the best bypass out there and a higher price tag usually accompanies "the best" How much is an extra 100K more miles worth? For those that plan to blow up and rebuild frequently maybe not worth it but for those that are running power levels with drivng habits that allow long life, I think its a must have IMO. Not to mention on HEUI systems the cleaner that oil the better it will run. I know I do not need my odometer to tell me when I need to change my oil in one of these. If you are in tune with how your engine runs you can feel it. I always change it before it reaches that point.
 

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Well said!! I think a few hundred bucks spent one time on something that will prolong 2 or 3 thousand dollar parts then its definitely well worth it. As well as saving a few bucks when the oil is staying in the truck a little bit longer as long as the samples dictate such.
 

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Correct in fact the oil with a good bypass actually ends up needing to be changed from a loss of viscoity not from contaniements or wear indicators. For whatever reason that too lasts longer than without it which could be in partl from the extra 2 quarts it will hold.

I am also very instersted to see what this preluber, that pressurizes the oil system just prior to start, will do, not only for wear from dry starts, but from the effects on the HEUI system, if any.
 

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so far i haven't seen any issues with the newer amsoil, the oil guard or the toilet paper filter. blackstone test were good on all of them.
fs did cut back on their ads maybe they can make them cheaper now.
 

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That woudl sure be nice!!!!! I to have not heard anything neg on the new amsoil ones and I think it was specifcally the dual setup that had the issue. I think any quality bypass is better than none without a doubt
 
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