Ford Power Stroke Nation banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I kept reading things about wiring when converting; all I did was plug the trans harness from a 97 F350 with a 460 and a ZF into my truck. Fired right up AND cruise works! I was worried about the wiring and figuring it out but man it was brainlessly simple!

Other than, everything went together pretty well. 100% worth it.

My question:
I bought a brand new OEM pedal box from Ford. The lever that connects the clutch pedal to the slave cylinder; should that have splines cut in it? The one I got did not have any splines so I had to use a dremel and make it a tapered fitment and tightened the hell out of the nut so I was able to get home but I'm unsure of driving it any further at this point.

Secondly, when turning my steering wheel right, it binds up sometimes. Thoughts?


Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,435 Posts
Iirc the splines are for a plastic bushing that can be bought from ford. Been a while so I might be wrong on that though. Seems I used a drill bit depth collar and tightened it down on the out board stud end after trimming the plastic bushing his will keep the clutch rod from popping off the bushing after it gets warn. Think I have pix in my sig link in red truck folder, mechanical mods sub folder is a picture of the plastic bushing and drill stop collar.

Binding while turning right could be front axle universals seizing up or steering column bearings packing it in. Put it on jack stands and check it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,373 Posts
Slave cylinder? Maybe the lever that engages the pushrod for the master? No, a new lever wouldn't be splined. It's softer metal than the shaft, and when you crank the nut down, the splines on the shaft cut into the lever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,373 Posts
If it were splined initially, and the same hardness as the shaft, the finest adjustment you could make would be a particular spline position. So if it's, say, 24 splines, the positions would be 15 degrees apart. You might not be able to find a position that's optimal; too much play in one position, no play / partial pressure in the next. Having a softer metal that the shaft splines bite into allows you to place it in an optimal position. The idea is to determine that optimal position with the lever on the pushrod, then put the lever on the splined shaft in that position and tighten the nut. Ford even claims in the FSM that you should replace that lever every time you remove it.

Of course, the right design alternative, much simpler, would have been an adjustable pushrod (threaded, with a locknut) like you can get for the earlier trucks....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I couldn't get any splines to cut, even with a long handled ratchet so I tapered it to get some engagement. I'll check it periodically.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
If it were splined initially, and the same hardness as the shaft, the finest adjustment you could make would be a particular spline position. So if it's, say, 24 splines, the positions would be 15 degrees apart. You might not be able to find a position that's optimal; too much play in one position, no play / partial pressure in the next. Having a softer metal that the shaft splines bite into allows you to place it in an optimal position. The idea is to determine that optimal position with the lever on the pushrod, then put the lever on the splined shaft in that position and tighten the nut. Ford even claims in the FSM that you should replace that lever every time you remove it.

Of course, the right design alternative, much simpler, would have been an adjustable pushrod (threaded, with a locknut) like you can get for the earlier trucks....

Ah, thanks.

That makes sense.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I start the truck up, the idle hunts for a couple seconds until I rev it up and then it idles normally. What could it be?

I put a brand new SBC clutch set up in it and it seems like it's very difficult to drive smoothly, is that normal? Or is on account of the automatic ECU still in there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,373 Posts
So you have the auto PCM? That explains the hunting idle. It doesn't idle properly on start-up unless it detects you're in Park or Neutral. If you don't have the auto wiring harness, you'd have to put a resistor between pins 30 and 46 of the PCM, which used to be connected to the range switch. Per the '95 EVTM, Park is 3770-4607 ohms, Neutral is 660-807 ohms. It's possible the PCM won't engage the cruise, however, if it detects Park or Neutral. Manual PCM would be an option.

The PCM has no interaction with the manual trans. What you're experiencing is a new clutch. Presumably it's a single-mass flywheel? I noticed with our new clutches / SMF, just a stock-style Valair, it was hard not to chirp the tires on launch initially. Lasted a week or so. Either the clutch settled in, or we got used to the pedal action, or both.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ah alright. I used the rear harness from a 97 with a 460 and a ZF. Everything works, even the cruise control.

And regarding the clutch; it is a single mass set up. I put the same set up in my 93 7.3 IDI and didn't own it long enough to break it in.

Thanks for you input!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top