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Discussion Starter #1
Im at my wits end with this early 99 7.3. Ive been fighitng this problem for over 2 years now, when its warm, the truck runs awesome. When I bought the truck, it would white smoke when you started it until it was warm. Asked the dealer about it, told me it was normal, it had bigger injectors and a chip in it. This was my first diesel, so i was a dumbass thinking it was ok. That fall, the truck wouldnt start on its own under 50 degrees. So i changed the gpr and the glowplugs. Helped a little but not much. This is my plow truck so no matter what, it has to be plugged in under 40 or it would drain the batteries cranking it. So i left it alone all last winter and this year until about 3 months ago. I was tired of it smoking all the time when i started it, doesnt matter what the temp. So i went ahead and replaced the gpr and glow plugs again as well as the valve cover harness. I did an ohmn and power check at the plugs and it all checked out fine. So with my scan tool, i started checking the hpop pressure and the ipr duty cycle. All that checked out with all the info I could find. I took the ipr apart and cleaned it and also checked the icp for oil in it and nothing. I also checked fuel pressure and it was 60psi. So after asking some powerstoke guys and the local ford dealership diesel tech, they all told me the same thing, I had bad injectors. So I did a buzz test and cyl. balance test and the only thing that was suspect was #8cyl failed the contribution test. So i changed the grey cps to a new original black International one and It passed the test. So i yanked the injectors out, took them to a repituable diesel shop, had them check them out on a flow bench and was told 4 of the 8 were bad, they didnt have enough clearance. They said the other 4 were ok, but could use replaced. Didnt have a ton of money so I bought 4 new injectors and reused the other 4 with new o-rings on them and re-installed everything. At that time, I also put new gauges and replaced the superchips 40hp chip that was in it with a new TS 6 position chip. Also put 2 new batteries and a new 2003 7.3 high torque starter in it to spin it faster. Did a compression test and all cyls. were between 360 and 390 except #5 and it was like 200. The turbo fins are not beatup or worn down. Didnt do a leak down, but the truck has blow by, it has a catch can with filter on the ccv and you can see the puffs of smoke coming out it when its running. Got the truck running, drove it, and still had hard start and white smoke. So I took it to a local mechaninc who specializes in 7.3's and he diagnosed it and said it still had at lease one bad injector or more but he couldnt tell me which ones. Asked him about low compression, and he said that my numbers wouldnt cause it to smoke so much and be so hard to start, he had seen a lot worse. Also said it runs great and had a ton of power so It wouldnt be a cracked piston or hole in a piston. So I figured it was one or more of the 4 old injectors, so I bought 4 remanufactured injectors that had new barrels and plungers installed and had a year warranty, figured they would do the job. Installed them last night, took the truck for a drive, definatly made the truck more responsive and drive better and when i got back to the shop it wasnt smoking, but went out this morining and its like 55 degrees, and still hard start and white smoke. Also, the truck has no codes or SES light on. So WTF, Im totally beathing my head against a wall. Ive spent all this money and time and still have the same problem. I know im new here, but PLEASE HELP ME!!! I know this post is long, but I REALLY appreciate everyones time reading it and trying to help me out, THANKS in advance for everyones time!!!
 

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How do you know what injectors were bad or did you just assume they were the old 4. We put new injectors in our 6.0 and had 1 bad when we put it in. ( a new remand Injector)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, i just assumed the 4 old ones were the problem. How would i find out if there was a bad one exactly when one it was? Ive done a buzz and cyl. contribution test and they both pass.
 

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The low comp is in one cyl.... it may run rough but the other 7 should still light. OP said it does not light/very hard start below 50. My neighbors truck has a weak hole and it never acts like this.

What about the batteries? when were they changed last? load tested last? When its plugged in, does it light right off?

If it were me, I'd spend some time on the power supply to the GP relay and confirm that the batts were up to snuff.
 

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It's due to the low compression. A diesel needs compression to make heat which then burns the fuel, no compression= no heat= unburnt fuel.
Id agree with this, I forget what the compression specs are at the moment but #5 is def way down. These things run on straight compression and glow plug heat when its cold. You gotta have that pressure.
 

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Oh yeah! Once you start dropping compression it's going to be hard to start at any temp. Your truck is running better when warmed up cause you have heat in the cyls.

Basically when that fuel gets into the cyl.with the low comp. it's cooling down that cyl. and glowplug.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The batteries are 2 months old and are 1000cca each so im assuming there good. When you hit the key, the truck spins over pretty fast. I understand it has to have heat to fire, but at 65 degrees? When the truck is plugged in when its cold, if i cycle the glow plugs, it will start right up.
 

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I have seen diesels needing ether at 80 degrees:eek:

It could be injetors but I would lean more towards that low cyl.

Only way to know if it's the injectors is replacing them with a good set but that's a lot of money to throw away if that's not the problem.
 

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Like someone else mentioned what about making sure the gpr is getting proper power. And as far as finding the bad Injector just pull them out and have them tested @ 40-70 a piece
 

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another thing to do is get a heat gun and check the cylinders while it's running to see what kind of temps you get between cylinders this will help find bad injectors and show you the difference in #5 compared to rest.
 

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my old 2002 had the same problems your describing. mine had 215 psi in 1 cly, 290 in another then 390 in the rest. tore it down and those two cly had broken rings. if you have 1 cly with 200 i would tear it down and fix it first off. weather it turns out to be a valave issue or rings either way it needs to be fixed.
 

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my old 2002 had the same problems your describing. mine had 215 psi in 1 cly, 290 in another then 390 in the rest. tore it down and those two cly had broken rings. if you have 1 cly with 200 i would tear it down and fix it first off. weather it turns out to be a valave issue or rings either way it needs to be fixed.
like anything else it would just make the rest of the motor start dieing off as well, so may be your best bet not to break into it while its still salvagable:popcorn:
 

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Im at my wits end with this early 99 7.3. Ive been fighitng this problem for over 2 years now, when its warm, the truck runs awesome. When I bought the truck, it would white smoke when you started it until it was warm. Asked the dealer about it, told me it was normal, it had bigger injectors and a chip in it. This was my first diesel, so i was a dumbass thinking it was ok. That fall, the truck wouldnt start on its own under 50 degrees. So i changed the gpr and the glowplugs. Helped a little but not much. This is my plow truck so no matter what, it has to be plugged in under 40 or it would drain the batteries cranking it. So i left it alone all last winter and this year until about 3 months ago. I was tired of it smoking all the time when i started it, doesnt matter what the temp. So i went ahead and replaced the gpr and glow plugs again as well as the valve cover harness. I did an ohmn and power check at the plugs and it all checked out fine. So with my scan tool, i started checking the hpop pressure and the ipr duty cycle. All that checked out with all the info I could find. I took the ipr apart and cleaned it and also checked the icp for oil in it and nothing. I also checked fuel pressure and it was 60psi. So after asking some powerstoke guys and the local ford dealership diesel tech, they all told me the same thing, I had bad injectors. So I did a buzz test and cyl. balance test and the only thing that was suspect was #8cyl failed the contribution test. So i changed the grey cps to a new original black International one and It passed the test. So i yanked the injectors out, took them to a repituable diesel shop, had them check them out on a flow bench and was told 4 of the 8 were bad, they didnt have enough clearance. They said the other 4 were ok, but could use replaced. Didnt have a ton of money so I bought 4 new injectors and reused the other 4 with new o-rings on them and re-installed everything. At that time, I also put new gauges and replaced the superchips 40hp chip that was in it with a new TS 6 position chip. Also put 2 new batteries and a new 2003 7.3 high torque starter in it to spin it faster. Did a compression test and all cyls. were between 360 and 390 except #5 and it was like 200. The turbo fins are not beatup or worn down. Didnt do a leak down, but the truck has blow by, it has a catch can with filter on the ccv and you can see the puffs of smoke coming out it when its running. Got the truck running, drove it, and still had hard start and white smoke. So I took it to a local mechaninc who specializes in 7.3's and he diagnosed it and said it still had at lease one bad injector or more but he couldnt tell me which ones. Asked him about low compression, and he said that my numbers wouldnt cause it to smoke so much and be so hard to start, he had seen a lot worse. Also said it runs great and had a ton of power so It wouldnt be a cracked piston or hole in a piston. So I figured it was one or more of the 4 old injectors, so I bought 4 remanufactured injectors that had new barrels and plungers installed and had a year warranty, figured they would do the job. Installed them last night, took the truck for a drive, definatly made the truck more responsive and drive better and when i got back to the shop it wasnt smoking, but went out this morining and its like 55 degrees, and still hard start and white smoke. Also, the truck has no codes or SES light on. So WTF, Im totally beathing my head against a wall. Ive spent all this money and time and still have the same problem. I know im new here, but PLEASE HELP ME!!! I know this post is long, but I REALLY appreciate everyones time reading it and trying to help me out, THANKS in advance for everyones time!!!

when you had the "4" bad injectors, did you rebuild the 4 bigger injectors and then replace the other 4 with rebuilts? did you mix and match the bigger injectors and some stockers?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The injectors are stock. I bought 4 new allied stock injectors and 4 remanufactured stock injectors. The GPR is getting and putting out the correct voltage, there is hardly any drop accrost the terminals when its on. Im sure the injectors are all good, so im guessing it has to be the cyl. Im looking to find a borescope with a small head so I can pull the injector and look in the cyl. and see if i can see any damage. If i cant find anything, then its probably the rings and I guess ill just pull it in the spring and re-ring and re-bearing it then.
 

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buddy is a ford 7.3 tech....he said anything under 400 in a cyl is a dead hole and needs to be rebuilt. they will kill the rest of the motor!
 

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buddy is a ford 7.3 tech....he said anything under 400 in a cyl is a dead hole and needs to be rebuilt. they will kill the rest of the motor!
At 285k, I doubt you have any hole over 400, so yours are all dead, LOL. My truck ran great at 350 per hole with 150k until I burnt a hole in a piston and went to 0psi which is not good. Oddly enough, I could take of the overdrive, run 60mph at about 2500rpm and it sounded like there was no problem, smooth as silk. Idle was terrible and had no torque though.

OP, I think you have compression issues.
 
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