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PUNISHER EDITION F350
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I have a 03 2wd Excursion in need of new pads and rotors. My wife mostly uses it as a grocery getter in town but we do tow or 6k camper to Colorado every once and a while. I was going to get the powerstop rotors and ceramic scorched pads from rock auto for all for corners. Any one use those or have suggestions.
 

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Sorry about the confusion, I use powerslot rotors, not powerstop rotors. But I really like the combination for my vehicles. The Powerslot w Hawk pad is an amazing upgrade to the stock braking system on our trucks.
On Edit; I did some research on the Powerstop's and they are definitely and upgrade from the OE rotors. Ford did a pretty bad job on the brake system on these trucks, using inferior metals for the rotors. They are garbage that's for sure. I did 2 brake jobs on my 02 Ex, 1 at 15K and the second at 30K. After that I switched to the Powerslot's w hawk pads, I average about 4 times plus the mileage between brakes jobs as opposed to the OE rotors and pads. When you do the upgrade, the first thing you will notice is how much quicker/shorter your truck stop as well. Huge difference!...
 

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+2 Powerslots
 

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Caption This
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There are no rotors that are better than OE rotors. You might improve the pad some depending on how you use your truck.
 

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There are no rotors that are better than OE rotors. You might improve the pad some depending on how you use your truck.
I did some research on the Rotors and Pads and it does appear that your on to something. I'm never to proud to admit when I'm wrong, and several articles that I just read are stating just that. I've had bad experiences with the Ford factory brakes, as many have. I do all my own brake jobs as well, and always follow the lug pattern rule when reinstalling the wheels as well. But I will also say that after switching to Powerslot Rotors and Hawk pads I've never experienced the issues I had with the OE rotors and say premium pads from AZ or Napa. I experimented one time installing hawk pads on the Ft w OE rotors and that didn't work either. I found myself doing the brakes again in about 30K. With the powerslot and hawk pads I get over 70K and easily and that's with towing miles included, the back brakes last twice that long. Slide pins always get cleaned and regreased at every brake job. At this point I just offer up my own experiences that I've had with the brakes on my 3 Superduties.
Tech Article: Warped Brake Discs
 

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I bought new OEM rotors and pads (my 06 front )
I was to leery to try aftermarket slotted and then not be able to turn them in the future

mine had a 103,000 miles on them the pads were close to done

but to my surprise Y could have slapped the new pads on the old rotors and been fine

they didn't even have a ridge I was impressed
 

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I'm doing some research on a few different Rotor Manufacturers, and the technology and processes used to treat, harden that make Rotors more resistant to heat wear and cracking. I found that some companies namely ART and Hawk both use molybdenum Disulfide in the metallurgy process of there Rotors. PowerSlot; Cryogenically treating Rotors, a process where cycling cold and heat in a controlled environment is used to improve residual stress points left over from the casting process.
Centric Premium High Carbon Alloy Rotors
Centric 125 Series High Carbon Alloy Brake Rotors contain an advanced metallurgy that greatly reduces the possibility of pad squeal especially with higher friction, European style brake pad compounds. Proprietary Molybdenum and Chromium alloys resist rotor cracking during high performance use or repeat stop situations. This alloy also increases the friction couple improving brake performance and stopping power. Increased Chromium and Carbon content is also more resistant to oxidation
Some info I learned when working with Schaeffers oil.
Molybdenum Disulfide:
Here it is used as a steel additive. The more Moly you add to steel in the Metallurgical process the harder the steel will become, and it has a distinct ability to with-stand higher heat, as well as dissipate heat.

Molybdenum is an important alloying agent which contributes to the hardenability and toughness of quenched and tempered steels. It also improves the strength of steel at high temperatures. It is used in certain heat-resistant and corrosion-resistant nickel-based alloys.
Now throw in the Slotting on the Rotors and to me this sounds like a much better Product than the OE Ford rotors.
Also, If you put a quality Rotor and an OE Rotor side by side, the difference is very apparent. I can't speak for anyone else, but I will never go back to a Ford OE rotor. I can't find any Technical information on the Ford OE rotors, but I highly doubt they go thru any of these processes to build they're rotors.
 

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Cpattie
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I always use OEM pads, and am thinking about trying some slotted/drilled rotors because they look cool. I have had good luck with them on other cars.
 

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Caption This
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I always use OEM pads, and am thinking about trying some slotted/drilled rotors because they look cool. I have had good luck with them on other cars.
Slots and holes are to keep the pad in contact with the rotors when gassing occurs. The pads on a Super Duty don't get hot enough to gas.
 

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Its important for people to go with they feel is right for them, at times your budget might dictate going the cheaper route as well. We've all been there. I'm just offering up some info in the hopes it'll help some folks to make an informed decision with Rotors and pads. Me Excursion is a good example, I don't tow with it. Nor do I plan on it. So I could go with a lesser pad than the Superduty Extreme pads from Hawk. I won't, but just as an example. For me personally, I'll stick with the Powerslot and Hawk pads on all my vehicles.
 

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I have the powerstops with the ceramic pads and they stop just as good, maybe even a little better than stock. I live in CO I drive a lot of hills and passes and they preform great. No warping or fading.
 

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Professional American, guarding our constitution.
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OEM rotors (or NAPA replacements) and Wagner ThermoQuiets have always stopped my '72 EagerBeaver lowboy with my Komatsu WB140 backhoe on it or the mini ex and a Dresser TD-7 dozer together behind all my 7.3's.

Before someone tries to pooh pooh the trailer being airbrake, it's a '72... 1974 is when DOT required air to be applied to *release* brakes, not apply them. So yes, if DOT or MCE catches me on the interstate (which I'm not stupid enough to do) I'd be cooked but the local 19yr old townie cops don't know one trailer from the next.
 

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Beef
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I used diversified cryogenics Frozen Rotors slotted rotors and hawk pads on my 08 and LOVED it. They worked great in summer and in the dead of winter. That combo would chirp the tires during an emergency brake. Very good bite.

I had factory rotors and EBC, and IMHO the stop time was longer.

When it's time to do my 99, I'll do frozen flat rotors in the rear and frozen slotted in the front w/ hawk pads.
 
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