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southern 6.4
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Discussion Starter #41
ImageUploadedByAG Free1457469902.520477.jpg

Don't know if you can see well enough but where I am pointing is the gasket type piece


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I'm not sure.. hopefully someone else with a little more knowledge in this can chime in...

If I had to guess.... I would say it doubles as a mounting bracket and should be OK to replace... again, that's just a guess. Did you try digging around for a print of this setup?

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I found what looks to be 2 different types of setups for our turbos. One looks to be an electrically controlled actuator and the other is what would appear to be an air or liquid driven controller for the actuator... I'm no turbo guy, so again hope this helps..

uploadfromtaptalk1457546104849.jpg uploadfromtaptalk1457546111100.jpg

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southern 6.4
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Discussion Starter #44
I found what looks to be 2 different types of setups for our turbos. One looks to be an electrically controlled actuator and the other is what would appear to be an air or liquid driven controller for the actuator... I'm no turbo guy, so again hope this helps..

View attachment 136857 View attachment 136865

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Got too excited to wrench on it and I got it off, turns out that coolant flows through the bracket that I was pointing out and doubles as the actuator cooler ( the picture on the left you posted). Truck is down for the count until that bracket/cooler gets here today. So word of advice is to keep them together and pull it off all as one part. learned that one the hard way.

Got it figured out though, so thankful for you help:rockwoot:
 

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southern 6.4
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Discussion Starter #45
And if I am not mistake, the one on the right has the clip that is impossible to get off, as mine has the nut (the one on the left)
 

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Ahhh, I see. Better coolant than diesel I guess, plus a small bit of new knowledge acquired. Glad to hear all is on the up and up at least! Keep us posted once it's all back together! Good luck!

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southern 6.4
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Discussion Starter #47
Ahhh, I see. Better coolant than diesel I guess, plus a small bit of new knowledge acquired. Glad to hear all is on the up and up at least! Keep us posted once it's all back together! Good luck!

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Thanks man! Should have every thing wrapped up next Wednesday
 

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I found what looks to be 2 different types of setups for our turbos. One looks to be an electrically controlled actuator and the other is what would appear to be an air or liquid driven controller for the actuator... I'm no turbo guy, so again hope this helps..

View attachment 136857 View attachment 136865

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There is only one kind of set up, one pic shows the actuator cooler bolted up and the other doesn't. They are all electronically controlled. The only real difference is one style has a clip, the other the nut, and if it has the clip chances are something is going to break trying to get it off. 3 7mm bolts hold the cooler to the actuator and 3 10 mm bolts hold the actuator to the turbo with a shim in between. The gasket should stay with the cooler and gets reused, there will be 3 small screw holding the new actuator together and those get removed and replaced by the bolts for the cooler(the cooler won't just come apart if the screws are taken out so don't worry about trying to keep it together). I would not recommend removing the actuator with the cooler still attached, its messier and could get air in the system which can be hard to get out.
 

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Thanks for clearing that up. I was curious as to what the differences were between the 2 but now I realize there really isn't one. I was looking all over for a schematic and or a flow chart on this turbo set up and came up dry.. I'm printing that out and putting it in my home made "service notes" book!

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southern 6.4
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Discussion Starter #50
There is only one kind of set up, one pic shows the actuator cooler bolted up and the other doesn't. They are all electronically controlled. The only real difference is one style has a clip, the other the nut, and if it has the clip chances are something is going to break trying to get it off. 3 7mm bolts hold the cooler to the actuator and 3 10 mm bolts hold the actuator to the turbo with a shim in between. The gasket should stay with the cooler and gets reused, there will be 3 small screw holding the new actuator together and those get removed and replaced by the bolts for the cooler(the cooler won't just come apart if the screws are taken out so don't worry about trying to keep it together). I would not recommend removing the actuator with the cooler still attached, its messier and could get air in the system which can be hard to get out.

Ill go try that this afternoon, when I go to get the actuator separated from the gasket and cooler will the coolant not constantly flow out?
 

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Ill go try that this afternoon, when I go to get the actuator separated from the gasket and cooler will the coolant not constantly flow out?
That is correct. The gasket really isn't a gasket, not quite sure what its purpose is, its kind of sticky though. The cooler is a closed system, only place coolant flows is into tube and out of other tube.
 
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That is correct. The gasket really isn't a gasket, not quite sure what its purpose is, its kind of sticky though. The cooler is a closed system, only place coolant flows is into tube and out of other tube.
Maybe the "gasket" acts as an anti-vibration pad or some kind of isolator? I mean it was engineered by an engineer, so it must be right lol!

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southern 6.4
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Discussion Starter #53
That is correct. The gasket really isn't a gasket, not quite sure what its purpose is, its kind of sticky though. The cooler is a closed system, only place coolant flows is into tube and out of other tube.
Maybe the "gasket" acts as an anti-vibration pad or some kind of isolator? I mean it was engineered by an engineer, so it must be right lol!

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Fixed!!!!!!!!!! p132b was 100% that actuator. I got the old one off, opened it up, and there were multiple sheared gears inside of it. So far I have learned that the p132b code is going to be directly related to the actuator and p2263 is the EBP sensor in my case.



I have noticed an issue with the truck now though.

Before I fixed this problem my truck would dump soot out of the exhaust (roll coal) but now i can't even get a puff out even if I step on it. Not that Im worried about rolling coal, but is this normal now that my turbo is working? Or is something else now the problem?
 

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Nope, now everything is working properly so your fuel and air combustion is efficient thus no coal train! Maybe you'll get a puff if you do a heavy acceleration, but you won't blind an intersection!

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southern 6.4
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Discussion Starter #55
Nope, now everything is working properly so your fuel and air combustion is efficient thus no coal train! Maybe you'll get a puff if you do a heavy acceleration, but you won't blind an intersection!

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Awesome, didn't really care to change the color of the intersection every time I tapped the gas, thanks again for the help!!
 

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Re: P132B

I wonder if anyone else this this particular problem? I have a 2011 F350 with the 6.7 that I bought new. At about 15K miles it started to code the P132B and have very little turbo boost. I just removed the code, but it started to come on more often. So, I took it to the dealer and they told me it was the EGR valve. They replaced it at a cost of $1500, and it did nothing to stop the problem. Took it back, this time they said the VGT/waste gate assembly need to be replaced at a cost of $3500, and this on a truck with 20K miles. I told them that there was nothing mechanically wrong with the turbo, and the problem must be electronic. They said that their scanner said different and I was wrong. At this point I had zero confidence in their service department and said goodbye. So, I started to keep track of the situations and conditions that lead to the absence of turbo boost. HERE IS What I FOUND....Once the engine is up to temperature and I let the engine idle for as little is 10 minutes, when I resume driving, there is very little boost. As long as I shut the engine off (truck stops, fueling, ect.), no problems with max 22psi boost. The truck now has 40K miles on it, and I just finished a 2 month, 9K trip pulling a 30' 5th wheel camper with zero problems with the truck. All the power I needed and no codes. Anyone have any idea what would cause this odd behavior?
 
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