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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I need help. I realize that diagnosis is difficult over the internet, but I'll try to give as much information as possible to see if it narrows down things.

Vehicle: 2006 F250 Lariat FX4, 240K miles.


Not long ago, I started getting a quick spike in coolant temperature with a notice to "check engine temperature." The spike would last about 30 seconds and immediately go back down to normal. This would happen after driving it about 10 minutes, and it may then randomly happen again or not at intervals.

In addition to the engine temperature, I also noticed that the heater would blow cold air, and then suddenly blow a burst of hot hair for a short period of time, then go back cold.

I never noticed any puking coolant from the degas bottle, but I can't confirm that.

This seems to me to be a thermostat issue.

Well, last weekend, I changed the thermostat. I had to add a good bit of coolant afterward.

Engine Temperature notices stopped. Heater started to blow hot air. But after a few days, I noticed that the heater in the cab would cut off and start to blow cool again. It seems that when I accelerated and then let off, it would blow hot, but only for a short period.

Yesterday, coming home from work, my engine temperature spiked again just like it was doing before. It dropped back off to normal after about 30 seconds. Since I was close to home, I was able to check if I had puked any coolant. I didn't notice any coolant on the outside of the degas bottle, but I did see some moist areas under the truck that makes me thing it may have.

The truck is supposed to be studded, but I am no mechanic. But I don't think that it is a head gasket issue (but won't rule it out categorically.)

However, I am not getting any losses of power at all. I am not seeing any white smoke at any time.

So... I need your help.

Is it possible that I just got a bad thermostat? The one that I got was a Duralast from Autozone.

My other thoughts could be that I need to flush or replace heater core and/or water pump.

Thanks in advance for any help or insight that you can provide.
 

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Is there a temp difference between the upper and lower radiator hoses.

Sent from my super awesome outdated Samsung phone while waiting for masakimms# 500mA overdraw draw to catch fire which turd will be blamed for and we will be sitting on dustybumpers tailgate watching the fire and plotting against yommy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is there a temp difference between the upper and lower radiator hoses.

Sent from my super awesome outdated Samsung phone while waiting for masakimms# 500mA overdraw draw to catch fire which turd will be blamed for and we will be sitting on dustybumpers tailgate watching the fire and plotting against yommy.
I don't know.

Give me a few minutes to get the truck hot and I'll let you know. I haven't driven it today.

And thanks
 

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You have blown head gaskets . You will be able to confirm this by placing a “T” in on every or your degas bottle return lines and hook the other end to a gauge and run it into the cab. If you see large pressure increases under acceleration (which I’m sure you will) you have blown head gaskets. You’ll likely see the pressure stop around 16 and then the cap will vent
 

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OK... Here's what I've got.

I got the truck up to normal operating temperatures.

There wasn't a major difference in the temperatures of the upper and lower radiator hoses. The upper one may have been slightly warmer than the lower one, but neither were very warm.

When I got in the cab, the heater was blowing cold. When put under load at about 2K RPMS, the heater started blowing hot. After getting out and checking the hoses again (with truck idling) the heater went back to blowing cold.

Does any of that help?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't know.

Give me a few minutes to get the truck hot and I'll let you know. I haven't driven it today.

And thanks
You have blown head gaskets . You will be able to confirm this by placing a “T” in on every or your degas bottle return lines and hook the other end to a gauge and run it into the cab. If you see large pressure increases under acceleration (which I’m sure you will) you have blown head gaskets. You’ll likely see the pressure stop around 16 and then the cap will vent
God, I am hoping it isn't that.
 

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Not really but kinda sounds like a water pump. Was there any pressure in the upper hose. Kinda leaning towards a water pump

Sent from my super awesome outdated Samsung phone while waiting for masakimms# 500mA overdraw draw to catch fire which turd will be blamed for and we will be sitting on dustybumpers tailgate watching the fire and plotting against yommy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You have blown head gaskets . You will be able to confirm this by placing a “T” in on every or your degas bottle return lines and hook the other end to a gauge and run it into the cab. If you see large pressure increases under acceleration (which I’m sure you will) you have blown head gaskets. You’ll likely see the pressure stop around 16 and then the cap will vent

Sounds like I need to get this to my mechanic ASAP. If nothing else, he can confirm diagnosis.
 

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If there is no pressure in the hoses doubt it is head gaskets, possible but not probable

Sent from my super awesome outdated Samsung phone while waiting for masakimms# 500mA overdraw draw to catch fire which turd will be blamed for and we will be sitting on dustybumpers tailgate watching the fire and plotting against yommy.
 

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Not really but kinda sounds like a water pump. Was there any pressure in the upper hose. Kinda leaning towards a water pump

Sent from my super awesome outdated Samsung phone while waiting for masakimms# 500mA overdraw draw to catch fire which turd will be blamed for and we will be sitting on dustybumpers tailgate watching the fire and plotting against yommy.


I didn't notice anything odd on the hose. It seemed to be the normal stiffness that it has when not running. I'll go start it up again and see.
 

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If it was a water pump issue it should be consistent. Feel the heater hoses. If they are warm when the engine is warm you have coolant flow
 

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OK... more information.

Upper radiator hose doesn't have any significant pressure while running, but is fairly stiff.

However... Upper radiator hose is warm. Lower radiator hose is cold.
 

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If it was a water pump issue it should be consistent. Feel the heater hoses. If they are warm when the engine is warm you have coolant flow
He said in his earlier post that the engine was at normal operating temp but hoses were kinda warm but not much difference.

Sent from my super awesome outdated Samsung phone while waiting for masakimms# 500mA overdraw draw to catch fire which turd will be blamed for and we will be sitting on dustybumpers tailgate watching the fire and plotting against yommy.
 

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OK... more information.

Upper radiator hose doesn't have any significant pressure while running, but is fairly stiff.

However... Upper radiator hose is warm. Lower radiator hose is cold.
If there is temp difference the water pump is working. Put a cooling system pressure tester on it and see how quick the pressure climbs

Sent from my super awesome outdated Samsung phone while waiting for masakimms# 500mA overdraw draw to catch fire which turd will be blamed for and we will be sitting on dustybumpers tailgate watching the fire and plotting against yommy.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If there is temp difference the water pump is working. Put a cooling system pressure tester on it a
nd see how quick the pressure climbs

Sent from my super awesome outdated Samsung phone while waiting for masakimms# 500mA overdraw draw to catch fire which turd will be blamed for and we will be sitting on dustybumpers tailgate watching the fire and plotting against yommy.

Yeah... I need to clarify. After I went out and checked again, there was a noticeable difference between temperatures.

The lower radiator hose felt like the truck wasn't even running. Meaning right now, the outside temperature is 70 degrees. I'd say that the hose was 70 degrees. The upper hose was warmer.


As I said, I am not a mechanic. I'll be honest with you. I have to look up the location of the heater hoses. Kinda hard to locate them in the dark and being a functional moron.


Looks like I am going to have to let my mechanic check it. I don't have a coolant system pressure tester.
 
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