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Discussion Starter #1
Just looking for any first hand experiences with the 200/80's from PIS. I'm still running the original pmr motor for now at 102K miles and was thinking about changing the sticks sometime this year. I don't wan't to get something too small and have to buy more when my motor eventually pops (and get a forged or billet motor)...but then again I don't want something so big that the least little hiccup will send one through the block when it's cold. I realize that there is a big risk on reliability anytime your run bigger sticks and obviously tuning plays a big role in it. These are some of the smallest hybrids (that I know of) and figure that would let me keep the stock hpop not that it matters anyway. This truck is my DD and tow pig so if fuel mileage suffers with hybrids (worse than splits) then I need to know. I haven't found too much reliable info on this size injector which is the reason I have posted this thread cause I darn sure know how to use the search function. Thanks for any info yall have to offer.
 

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the stryker god
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if you know you're gonna do bigger then i would just do 250/200's. they can be tuned very tame and be opened up when you get ready. on the contrary if you know you're never gonna go forged rod or any of the supporting cast then i would stick with a 160/30
 

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POWER Junkie
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Pretty happy with my PIS 175/80's so far...
 

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I like my 200/80s .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys...I don't plan on getting rid of this truck any time soon so even if I did a billet rod motor it would be for reliability instead of trying to make 800 hp. I don't mind spending the money but I want to find a happy medium for hp and reliability even if I build a long block. Knowing myself I will find the hot setting too favorable with bigger sticks so I want an injector that can be "safely maxed out" with future mods. The way I see it is 160/30's are somewhat safe for a pmr motor so what is considered 99% safe for a forged motor and then a billet rod motor? These things pop with stock power levels so I realize nothing is guaranteed but just trying to get an honest idea of which kind of motor I need to build for a honest 450 hp workhorse....then again it all comes back to the tuning.
 

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TUNING.........that is what makes a engine (not motor) last.
450 hp is easy on a PMR engine now. More guys are running 500 hp.....bottom end gets softened to keep rods inside block.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have yet to see where 450 is actually easy on a pmr engine but needless to say I'm willing to take the risk. I would love to see a rash of people post about how long their pmr motors lasted above the 400 mark but I try to look at the reality of what works and what don't. The way I look at it is that eventually one of my pmr's are gonna have a bad day on stock sticks with my driving habits. When you show me 3 people that have over 100k miles on a 500 hp pmr MOTOR then I will consider that easy....until then I will consider my engine not capable of being reliable at anything over 400.
 

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I have yet to see where 450 is actually easy on a pmr engine but needless to say I'm willing to take the risk. I would love to see a rash of people post about how long their pmr motors lasted above the 400 mark but I try to look at the reality of what works and what don't. The way I look at it is that eventually one of my pmr's are gonna have a bad day on stock sticks with my driving habits. When you show me 3 people that have over 100k miles on a 500 hp pmr MOTOR then I will consider that easy....until then I will consider my engine not capable of being reliable at anything over 400.
Your over thinking it. Like stated above its in the tuning. A good tuner will limit low end power so it doesn't give a permeant oil drain hole in the side of your block. Although pmr motors are weaker, I don't think your going to be snapping any rods. Even with 200/80s
 

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POWER Junkie
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How do you like them? Been thinking about stepping up to these when the time comes.
They seem perfect for my needs. I wanted 400rwhp, reliable daily driver, solid towing performance, decent mileage. I got all of it. Great idle, great power, no smoke, and really lites my 38r. Seems a perfect match for the turbo. Plus I can retain my stock'ish fuel system. They gave me all that I wanted and then some!
 

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<<< THE GAUGE WHORE...
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230/100's from P.I.S.

Best injectors I have ever run...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Joe have you ever had your truck on a dyno? I'm just curious as to what kind of power your laying down. I'm gonna start with my pmr motor and see how long it lasts but in all honesty I don't wanna have to change turbo mounts to get the most out of the injectors that I pick. Would like to stick with a 38R or a modded one from NoLimit that is rebuildable hence the reason that I asked about the small hybrids from the get go. Joe I know you have enough experience in breaking things so if it was up to you what kind of long block would you build for 450 hp that would be as reliable as the pathetic 250 hp these things came with? I want reliability...billet rods...whatever it takes to not have to worry about poppin it. Time is money and I can't do without my truck so when I build a new motor it needs to be right the first time...lets just say cost is no object cause it's dam sure cheaper than $850 a month for a new truck for the next 6 years.
 

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the stryker god
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Billet rods are pretty overkill for anything under a 300/200. A good forged rod long block out of a junk yard with studs and valve springs, throw in those pis 230/100's, a set of dorman bellowed up pipes, regulated return, 38r/brute 66 and have a peppy setup. That's a 500+ horse set up, if you wanted somethin lower like 450 then 175/80's would do you. But for real your pmr engine is worth somethin if it runs, i sold my pmr engine for way more than the forged rod engine that replaced it so thin about that before you go blow the rods out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bruce I appreciate your advice and by no means am I trying to window my block....if anything put in a junkyard motor while I build mine. Point is though this is my only truck that makes me money so it needs overkill so to speak...I don't drive anything else unless this is broke. I don't mind spending the money on a bulletproof setup but just need real advice on what to build. A junkyard motor will be fine when I get a play truck but I'm not gonna depend on it for reliability in the long run....I don't have a spare VW TDI (unfortunately) to haul heavy trailers if this unit is out of service.
 

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<<< THE GAUGE WHORE...
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IMHO... Find a low mileage used motor, compression check it, clean it up, stud it, spring it and drive it...

I'll have to ask Tim if his 200's are hybrids or A codes, that would be my only issue with you going to a 200/?? injector. You want a hybrid.

This set up has not been dynoed, but the old set up did 567 in AZ... I now have smaller injectors, but a larger exhaust housing and a billet compressor wheel, along with a much healthier motor...

I would expect the set up in my sig to do 450-460hp.
 

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Wheelie Dude
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We have a local truck that we put together with PIS 200/80%, Honey Badger JR pump, BDP fuel system, D66 and BDP tuning and he put down 503 at our dyno day. The truck runs like a scolded dog.
 

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We have a local truck that we put together with PIS 200/80%, Honey Badger JR pump, BDP fuel system, D66 and BDP tuning and he put down 503 at our dyno day. The truck runs like a scolded dog.
Good to know my 200/80s are capable of 500 :ford:
 

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Wheelie Dude
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Good to know my 200/80s are capable of 500 :ford:
I cant say with a certainty but with that 468 you may not. We see a huge drop off in performance with a 468 on anything lower then a 300cc injector. I dont know why but we have seen it on multiple trucks trying to figure out why the power was not what it should be and the only thing all the trucks have in common is a 468. They were all running a 238 or 250 hybrid and barely make 500hp. Now jump that up to a 300/200 and it will do mid 600's every time. The smaller injectors seem to like smaller turbos even if it does seem to spool up good on the bigger ones.
 

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230/100's from P.I.S.

Best injectors I have ever run...

I just got mine in from tim but the cold has put a damper on my installation.

Is it best to do hpop, d66 injectors, icp, ipr, new valve cover gaskets etc all at one time, or one at a time, in case issues pop up?
 

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Wheelie Dude
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Assuming you have all those parts already? Do them all at the same time due to it being easier to get to some things that way with everything apart. Any issues with those should be pretty easy to diagnose if they come up.
 
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