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Oil pan replacement?

3481 Views 34 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  bdemutis
Well after getting the truck running I have a oil leak, my whole front end is still off so I might as well replace the oil pan while its apart.
My questions are what is the best way to do this or easiest, take the whole motor out or should I just unbolt the trans and motor mounts and jack the motor up?
I really need some insight on this the only motor I ever swapped was a 5.0 e150 work van motor and that was a nightmare because of the room they give you to work. Any information would be helpful.
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Pull the engine.
So don't even try doing it the easy way just pull the motor? Anything I should know before pulling the motor do I need to take the entire turbo setup out?
Pulling the engine is the easy and proper way to do it. There are a few other options like welding the pan in place, cutting the cross member or fiberglass and epoxy. If you want more of a challenge, flip the truck over and remove the frame. LOL
Pulling the engine is the easy and proper way to do it. There are a few other options like welding the pan in place, cutting the cross member or fiberglass and epoxy. If you want more of a challenge, flip the truck over and remove the frame. LOL
Well how I was reading on the manual truck I have to remove my tranny in order to remove the engine is that true or can I just unbolt it and hold it up with a strap like the automatic trans?
You just need to slide the trans back so the input no longer engages the clutch but at that point you might as well just drop it so it can't fall on anything.
Just pull the trans and then pull the motor.......enough said.

The turbo doesn't have to come off nor do you have to remove the DP to pull the motor. Removing the DP makes the install easier.

Sucking down the AC helps. The AC lines are at least 15 years old and might be alittle stiff to swing the compressor out of the way.

Billy T.
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Just pull the trans and then pull the motor.......enough said.

The turbo doesn't have to come off nor do you have to remove the DP to pull the motor. Removing the DP makes the install easier.

Sucking down the AC helps. The AC lines are at least 15 years old and might be alittle stiff to swing the compressor out of the way.

Billy T.
[email protected]
Ok thanks I guess I'm pulling the motor.
Doing it any other way is half assing it and you'll probably end up doing it again. Pulling the motor is at most a one day job, not difficult at all.
Doing it any other way is half assing it and you'll probably end up doing it again. Pulling the motor is at most a one day job, not difficult at all.
True but sometimes you can get away with a half ass job lol. Know I need to find a cherry picker my neighbor isn't home until 2 months that I usually use his engine lift.
I hope a 1 ton engine picker is enough because I just bought one. Also what is good to degrees it and clean everything brake cleaner?
I hope a 1 ton engine picker is enough because I just bought one. Also what is good to degrees it and clean everything brake cleaner?
Better look at it closely.......usually the one ton position is with the boom retracted. You extend the boom, the weight rating goes down.

Billy T.
[email protected]
raise the motor 4 inches
raise the motor 4 inches
I was thinking of doing it that way, how does that work have you done it?
Better look at it closely.......usually the one ton position is with the boom retracted. You extend the boom, the weight rating goes down.

Billy T.
[email protected]
The boom extends far enough to get the motor out, especially because my front end is still apart. I hope to drain the oil tomorrow then start on the motor Sunday morning since I work to late tomorrow, Friday and Saturday.
The point was that as you extend the boom, the weight rating goes down.

We all know that it extends enough to get the engine (motor's are electric or hydraulic) out.
The point was that as you extend the boom, the weight rating goes down.

We all know that it extends enough to get the engine (motor's are electric or hydraulic) out.
Yes that's what I meant by that, my boom extends far enough out and still has enough weight rating to lift the motor out. I did a engine swap on a 5.0 e150 van I know that the more the boom is extended the less strength it has.
I was thinking I seen online allot of guys who just hoist the motor up 4" and slide the old pan out. It depends I might just end up pulling the motor.
The sealant used to attach the pan makes it a bi$ch to get the pan off. Lots of people have dented their pans getting them free from the block.

That's one of the reasons why it's recommended to just pull the engine. You're more than halfway there just getting everything out of the way to lift it 4". Might as well just remove it.
The point was that as you extend the boom, the weight rating goes down.

We all know that it extends enough to get the engine (motor's are electric or hydraulic) out.
Then why is it called Ford Motor Company :poke:

Billy T.
[email protected]
Then why is it called Ford Motor Company :poke:
Because the _motors_ (starter, HVAC blower, wiper, etc. are made by Ford. The _engine_ isn't made by Ford _Motor_ company.... :poke:

('Course, it's made by International _Harvester_, but I digress.....)
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