Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
just a welding fool.
Joined
·
1,097 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The time is coming when I'm going to have to re-seal my oil pan. I was told International makes a grey RTV specifically for it, but is the black ok?

a tech also told me if i can get the motor high enough to get a 2x4 or 4x4 between the motor mounts, theres enough to drop the pan, clean it, re-seal it and get it back up. have any of you done that, or rather completley pull the motor?
 

·
Lovin Life...
Joined
·
2,900 Posts
Pull it.

1. Pulling old pan off is PIA at best.
2. Cleaning all old rtv off is going to lead to junk in the pan.
3. Putting new bead will be a PIA in the truck.

As far as RTV, not sure.

The first time I pulled my pan, there was much cursing. It took about 1 hour just to get it down.
 

·
All done now
Joined
·
22,486 Posts
Other RTV's may work. However, with all of the work it is to get the motor out. Bite the bullet and spend the fifteen bucks and buy the Ford grey stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
yeah, use the gray stuff, international part number is 1830856c1. that is the right silicone to use on the oil pans. here my cost comes up $37 over the counter, but as previously said this isnt something you want to cheap out on.
 

·
just a welding fool.
Joined
·
1,097 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
how big of a hassle is it to pull the motor? i mean, can i get away with lifting it as much as i can in the engine compartment without having to pull the radiator and coolers?
 

·
Demon Dually
Joined
·
5,140 Posts
Without a body lift I doubt you will be able to lift it up high enough to pull the pan. With my 3" body lift I can lift my motor and trans just about 8 or so inches giving me plenty of room to drop the pan if/when i need to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,888 Posts
You need to pull the motor, and have the pan cure with the motor upside down. That way all your residual oil won't run down and mess with the cure.
If your oil pan is rusty, maybe sand it and paint it,(treat it with POR15) , or buy a new one while it's out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
I'm pretty sure they just use re-branded Ultra-Grey? I've been told Permatex Ultra-Grey is about as good as it gets for oil pans and timing covers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
i won't do it without pulling the motor.. i can have one out in about 2 hrs or so not much over that and use the ford gray silicone... granted thats all i use working at the ford dealer
 

·
Well Hung Member
Joined
·
635 Posts
i know on the ford tubes, the grey says specifically for use on powerstroke 7.3 engines, and the black doesnt say anything of the sort, and as far as i know oil pans are supposed to really be one time use, because youre going to mangle that flange when you take it off, i thiiink employee pricing at a dealer a pan's like 150 bucks or similar, and the "caulk" is cheap enough to use the right stuff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,888 Posts
If my pan was coming off, I would definitely do something to make it never rust again,
 

·
just a welding fool.
Joined
·
1,097 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
rust isn't a problem, the pan looks like it did from the factory, it's the seal thats terrible. almost makes me think it was done before, but the truck was part of a highway maintenance crew, so i have no records on what was done and what wasn't.
 

·
Busy Busy
Joined
·
9,004 Posts
Pull the motor.

I've pulled the motor, done the pan job, reinstalled motor. Filled it and started it 24 hours later and drove it before.

Scott (Scuffy) does the same thing... Ford books says this or that, but at the end of the day when a tech is making time, he will do it the way I described.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,959 Posts
I'm pretty sure they just use re-branded Ultra-Grey? I've been told Permatex Ultra-Grey is about as good as it gets for oil pans and timing covers?
Considering that you might have to pull the motor all over again, is pretty good really good enough? What is the point? Trying to save a few bucks or just don't want to buy the Ford or International stuff for some obscure reason?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
send me your adress and I'll just send ya a tube of the ford stuff so you get it done right
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,976 Posts
Pull the motor. The pan is a pain in the ass to get off, I can't imagine trying to do it with it in the truck. Also, use the IH or the Ford stuff, that's a no brainer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
I did this job 2 weekends ago on a 4wd dually truck the worst part is getting it all tore down. I used the grey international sealant and the truck has absolutly no leaks now. The whole job took about 16 hours which is what the dealership called for. They told me when i bought that sealant that you just finger tighten the bolts and let it cure for 24 hours then torque the bolts down.Imho i would go ahead and replace the rear main seal at the same time since you already have it tore apart.

Bryan
 

·
just a welding fool.
Joined
·
1,097 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
then I may as well wait and replace the oil cooler seals at the same time, and the turbo too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
couldn't hurt but its honestly not that bad of a job
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top