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Do I have to drain the oil pan to do the oil cooler orings? I just had the oil changed and would prefer to not drain the pan if I don’t have to. Thanks
 

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Yep. And coolant.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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When you pull the cooler off an amount of coolant can get into oil pan, so drain both oil and antifreeze. I will usually leave the oil pan plug out and/or drain again prior to filling fluids back up. Be careful when bolting up the front of cooler to engine block. The front of the block is cast aluminum (front cover), if overtightened you can strip and or crack the aluminum front cover. Repair for that is pulling engine and replacing front cover. Lastly I use a flat nylon strap to clock and hold the cooler together once I get the end caps on (you can use a larger ratchet strap to pull ends on too). I leave nylon strap on until I get the cooler loosely fitted on the block (with all bolts and block to cooler gaskets in place), then snug down, remove strap for final torque of bolts.
cheers,
j
 

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Thanks for the great info. I’m having trouble fitting the cooler back into place. I feel like I’m going to need to try and bolt the front of the cooler to the engine block and then shove the rest inside. I saw a video on YouTube where a guy easily put it back in. Must be a little tighter on these 2wd f350’s
 

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Thanks for the great info. I’m having trouble fitting the cooler back into place. I feel like I’m going to need to try and bolt the front of the cooler to the engine block and then shove the rest inside. I saw a video on YouTube where a guy easily put it back in. Must be a little tighter on these 2wd f350’s
Have not rebuilt one on a 4x2 and yes it can be a challenge, that’s why I suggested the nylon strap. I use a 1” wide strap with a slip buckle on it. Create a loop in the strap and place it over the ends of the cooler (once assembled) and pull it tight, in effect the cooler and ends are held inside the loop. The strap will hold the ends on the cooler assembly so you can push it up along side the frame from rear of truck towards the front. You can rotate the ends somewhat independent of each other as the strap will hold the entire assembly together. I’ve done a couple 3 over the years and this method has worked for me, just go slow, take your time.

Have seen where guys have bolted the front cooler mount on the block and then slid the remainder in, the ones I’ve assembled are pretty snug and I can’t feature getting it assembled (cooler ends on) in this way.
Cheers,
j
 

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Yeah, when I did my oil cooler rebuild on my '96 2wd F250, I just had to use a lot of patience while removing and replacing the cooler from the oil-filter side. It took a lot of jiggling and trying this way and that way, but it actually fit. It's been years and miles since I rebuilt mine, but it's still holding leak-free.
 

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I done several oil coolers....I leave the front mount bolted...pull the tube and the rear mount, re-oring then push the tube and rear mount on with a crow bar.

I then change the oil...to insure no coolant contamination.
 
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