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Discussion Starter #1
I spun a bearing and am installing a remanufactured 7.3 engine. The engine arrived with no oil cooler and instructions (highlighted and underlined) to install a new one. I'm sure they are concerned about bearing metal flakes from the oil cooler causing failure of the new engine.

But a new one is about $250 through powerstrokeshop.com and I'm wondering if there's a less expensive alternative.

Can my existing oil cooler be cleaned effectively? Maybe take it to a radiator shop and ask them to do it?

Does International have the same oil cooler that would cost less? If so, do you know the part number?

If I buy a new Ford one, part # 1C3Z-6A642-AA, is it just the tube, or does it come with caps, o-rings, and seals?

Thanks for any info you can provide.
 

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Oil Cooler Housing, filter end 94-97; Updated snap ring retained check valve
(Ford)F81Z-6881-BA

Oil Cooler housing, Front, 94-97
(Ford) F4TZ-6881-B

Oil Cooler Housing Gasket (front)
(Ford) F7TZ-6A636-AAA ???
(International) 1831666C1

Oil Cooler Housing Gasket (rear; oil filter end)
(Ford) F4TZ-6A636-AA (97-up)
(Ford) F4TZ-6A636-B (96-before)
(International) 1831665C1

Oil Cooler O-Rings (one each to seal cooler at each header)
(Ford) 1C3Z-6C610-BA
(Ford) 1C3Z-6K649-BA
(International) 1807563-C1, Inner
(International) 1804414-C1 Outer
See "O-Rings" for Individual O-Ring sizes

Oil Cooler Tube / Core
(Ford) 1C3Z-6A642-AA


Some part numbers I have that might be usefull.

I also found this with a IH to Ford conversion PDF

1815904C2
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Tom. In this case International is way more expensive than Ford -- the local International dealer wants $574 for part # 1815904C2.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got the old engine out yesterday. Bits of piston and chunks of steel in the oil pan. Looks like it died a violent death. Oil intake screen jammed with metal -- I'm going to buy a new one, in addition to a new oil cooler. Ugh. Everytime I turn around I'm spending more money.
 

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So more then just a spun bearing I take it?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes. Metal throughout oil system, including oil pump. Need new:
- oil cooler
- oil pick up tube
- up pipes
- timing cover
- 2 exhaust manifold bolts that broke
- o-rings for HPO fitting to cyl heads
- water pump

I have pics but I'm not sure how to post them. Tom, if you're interested, PM me your e-mail address and I will send them that way.
 

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You can upload pictures directly here on the site. Look above and click on photos. I also use webshots a lot to post photos on here. Of the two webshots would probably be the fastest for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks, Tom! Here are the pics I have:


Piston and steel chunks from oil pan


Oil pump damage


Water pump leaking from weep hole
 

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Discussion Starter #9
More carnage:


Junk in Oil Cooler
 

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I am dying to know what failed on that motor. You truck was just chipped right?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nope, I've been running stock tuning for several years. The core shipped to Tidewater today, and I've asked Tidewater to let me know what they find. It may be 2-3 weeks to find out, but I'll share when I do.
 

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Did you find the cause of failure in your engine from Tidewater? I would really like to know what caused it. thx
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Did you find the cause of failure in your engine from Tidewater? I would really like to know what caused it. thx
No, I didn't. I requested an assessment of my old engine about a week after I shipped it back to them -- about the time the engine should have been arriving. I heard nothing for several weeks, so I followed up with an e-mail. Craig Talley, the owner, replied that the problem was bad injectors. I doubt that; I think he probably forgot to tell his tear-down guy to check it out, so he gave me his standard "answer", because:
  • I had my injectors cleaned and checked by Ryan Casserly (Full Force Diesel). He found no problems (once they were cleaned) and said that he wished all sets flowed as evenly as mine.
  • Tidewater says on its web site that most engine failures are caused by bad injectors.
  • The piston chunks in the oil pan were from the skirt, not the top, and I saw no evidence of melting.
So I guess if you send a core back to Tidewater, you should do your own investigation first.

However, I do remain happy with the new engine. I have almost 1000 miles on it now, and so far it's working well in every respect. I have had some IPR issues, but that has nothing to do with the engine itself.
 

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No, I didn't. I requested an assessment of my old engine about a week after I shipped it back to them -- about the time the engine should have been arriving. I heard nothing for several weeks, so I followed up with an e-mail. Craig Talley, the owner, replied that the problem was bad injectors. I doubt that; I think he probably forgot to tell his tear-down guy to check it out, so he gave me his standard "answer", because:
  • I had my injectors cleaned and checked by Ryan Casserly (Full Force Diesel). He found no problems (once they were cleaned) and said that he wished all sets flowed as evenly as mine.
  • Tidewater says on its web site that most engine failures are caused by bad injectors.
  • The piston chunks in the oil pan were from the skirt, not the top, and I saw no evidence of melting.
So I guess if you send a core back to Tidewater, you should do your own investigation first.

However, I do remain happy with the new engine. I have almost 1000 miles on it now, and so far it's working well in every respect. I have had some IPR issues, but that has nothing to do with the engine itself.
Ok, thanks for the reply. Where you just driving down the freeway and the engine blew? I am not sure if I might be needing an engine at some point in the near future. So, I thought I would start seeing who other people are using for reman engines. I changed my oil at 3700 miles last week and noticed some very fine specs in the oil. Engine runs fine, no issues. I sent in a sample for oil analysis, came back normal. Found out an anaylsis won't necessarily find a result from anything large enough to be visible by naked eye. I am going to cut open the new filter which has been run 300 miles, tomorrow. If something in the motor is shedding metal I should have something in the filter I would think? I just need something more before I replace this 118k mile engine that runs fine. At the same time, I don't want to tow my camper and family long distances until I have confidence that nothing is quickly unraveling. -A
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, thanks for the reply. Where you just driving down the freeway and the engine blew? I am not sure if I might be needing an engine at some point in the near future. So, I thought I would start seeing who other people are using for reman engines. I changed my oil at 3700 miles last week and noticed some very fine specs in the oil. Engine runs fine, no issues. I sent in a sample for oil analysis, came back normal. Found out an anaylsis won't necessarily find a result from anything large enough to be visible by naked eye. I am going to cut open the new filter which has been run 300 miles, tomorrow. If something in the motor is shedding metal I should have something in the filter I would think? I just need something more before I replace this 118k mile engine that runs fine. At the same time, I don't want to tow my camper and family long distances until I have confidence that nothing is quickly unraveling. -A
My wife was driving it, not me. She was driving from Colorado Springs to Denver at 75mph (the speed limit) on I-25 around the town of Larkspur when the engine developed a bad miss and she heard banging sounds. She limped it to the next exit, pulled over, and shut it off.

Oil analysis may not reflect particles you can see, but I would think that if a bearing is throwing off shavings, it would be shedding microscopic particles as well, which would show up. Not sure why you have metal particles but OA was clean. I would definitely follow up on those metal particles until you have an answer.

If I were you, I would try to resolve this before the engine blows up completely. When the engine blows, it will damage more parts and will make repairs more expensive. For example, see the damage to the front cover in my photos above. A new front cover is $400 from Ford, and if you can't find the right one for your truck and have to install a new one, you'll need a new oil pickup tube, new oil pan, and possibly a new HPOP reservoir, adding a few hundred more. A rebuilt HPOP, if necessary, is about $400. So you can save $1000 right off the bat if you can avoid damaging these parts. Not to mention a new oil cooler and IPR.

Of course, you might be able to get these parts a lot cheaper on eBay, but then you have to wait for good ones to come along. Then (particularly for a front cover), you may get the wrong part or find critical damage that didn't show up in the eBay photos.

What year is your truck, and where do you live? There may be an expert in your area (either a diesel shop or just a forum member) who could help you figure it out, if you'd like help.

BTW, I just saw in another thread of mine that Adam Brannan of First Coast Diesel Performance may be having problems with a 6.0L from Tidewater.
 

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My wife was driving it, not me. She was driving from Colorado Springs to Denver at 75mph (the speed limit) on I-25 around the town of Larkspur when the engine developed a bad miss and she heard banging sounds. She limped it to the next exit, pulled over, and shut it off.

Oil analysis may not reflect particles you can see, but I would think that if a bearing is throwing off shavings, it would be shedding microscopic particles as well, which would show up. Not sure why you have metal particles but OA was clean. I would definitely follow up on those metal particles until you have an answer.

If I were you, I would try to resolve this before the engine blows up completely. When the engine blows, it will damage more parts and will make repairs more expensive. For example, see the damage to the front cover in my photos above. A new front cover is $400 from Ford, and if you can't find the right one for your truck and have to install a new one, you'll need a new oil pickup tube, new oil pan, and possibly a new HPOP reservoir, adding a few hundred more. A rebuilt HPOP, if necessary, is about $400. So you can save $1000 right off the bat if you can avoid damaging these parts. Not to mention a new oil cooler and IPR.

Of course, you might be able to get these parts a lot cheaper on eBay, but then you have to wait for good ones to come along. Then (particularly for a front cover), you may get the wrong part or find critical damage that didn't show up in the eBay photos.

What year is your truck, and where do you live? There may be an expert in your area (either a diesel shop or just a forum member) who could help you figure it out, if you'd like help.

BTW, I just saw in another thread of mine that Adam Brannan of First Coast Diesel Performance may be having problems with a 6.0L from Tidewater.
My truck is a year 2000 7.3 2WD F-350 with 6 speed. I am in the Seattle area (Kirkland which is about 25 minutes from Seattle). I was thinking something would be seen in oil analysis unless an issue just happen to start right before my oil change? Of course, it took me 7 months to put 3,700 miles on the oil as I don't drive too much over the winter. As it turns out, tomorrow I will be going to a local machine shop that is going to let me use their oil filter cut open tool and they will look at the media with me. I only have 300 miles on this filter but want to cut it open and inspect as I will be taking family and 4k lb camper on a 4 day camp trip in Washington on Thursday. Will be towing for about 420 miles. Want to make sure there is not a heap of stuff in there. If there is, trip is cancelled (at least with truck and camper). If no red flag material in filter based on my opinion and that of the machinist, I guess we will go. Will just have to watch it close and pull out a quart or so every 1500 miles and look at the oil for any debris I suppose? At that point I would be in a drive and closely monitor situation...which really isin't a very confident place to be in. Won't be enjoying the drive with a relaxed state of mind if you know what I mean. I will let you know what I find in the filter. The half quart I drained this morning with the oil warm didn't have much in it. A few almost not visible specs that are too small to feel and maybe one or two that if you sqeezed the spec between two fingers could be barely felt to the touch. Maybe a piece of flash/casting material came loose and gouged some bearing material when it made a pass through engine? Don't really know what to think at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I understand. I hope you can go camping, but most of all, I hope that if you go, you don't have truck problems.

What did you find in the filter today?
 

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I understand. I hope you can go camping, but most of all, I hope that if you go, you don't have truck problems.

What did you find in the filter today?
Thanks for that.
Ok, nothing at all caught between any of the pleats. Went through it very carefully in the unusual Seattle area sunshine we happen to have today. After removing the filter media from the filter can, I had a couple tablespoons of undrained oil at the bottom. I poured that oil out slowly over a clean white paper plate a little at a time. The only seemingly insignificant thing I noticed was in the last couple drops in the canister. I noticed a few specs of what I might describe as like gold dust fine and barely visible shiny specs. Something you wouldn't notice unless you practically stuck your head into the canister. I cut it open at an engine machinist's shop and he looked at it with me. He said that everything looked very clean and the couple gold dust size specs isin't something with any significance. So, there wasn't much to see, which is a good thing but as he pointed out, I only had 272 miles on the filter with no towing during that time. What I saw in the pan originally was after towing my camper a couple hundred miles and this was with 3,700 mile oil. That oil had also been in the motor for 7 months.

After discussing with him further, we both agree I need to put some more miles on it and re-examine. Based on this, my family and I will be going camping with the truck and camper from Friday to Monday. Trip is about a 400 to 450 mile loop here in my Washington home state so it is about a "low risk" as a camping/towing trip as can be expected. The furthest point away from home is approx 225 miles. The game plan: I will drain a quart or so out of the drain pan and cut another filter open in 1,000 to 1,500 miles for another inspection. A good portion of the miles at that time will have been towing miles so the motor will have been worked some. This is the plan as long as the motor decides to not give up this weekend that is. I was thinking about your wife just driving your truck down the freeway when it started making noise. Sounds like your truck had no pre-warning of any issue what so ever and your motor was totally stock as well. Too bad Tidewater could not give you an actual cause of failure that seems truthful. My truck was %100 stock until 114k. I only added an Edge Evo programmer that I run in the mild tow mode setting. Motor at that time had new turbo/pedistool O rings installed along with EBPV deleted (done by reputable diesel mechanic). I had the pedestool gutted as there was the common oil seepage coming out from the rod area in pedistool. Being the 3rd owner there is definately room for previous owner debacles though. Well, I will let you know if we make it back in our own vehicle. -A
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Good luck on your trip, and have fun.

I'm the 2nd owner of my truck, and I actually did have a number of warning signs:
  • Engine consumed about 1 qt oil every 1000 miles
  • OA consistently showed somewhat high bearing wear metals, like lead
  • Ticking noise on #5 cylinder developed about 40K miles ago. Thought it was injector, but didn't go away after new injectors
  • Old #5 injector was gunky when pulled out.
  • More smoke than normal at high RPM ranges
I was (and am still) running stock tuning, but for a while I tried a couple of tuners. I removed them because of excessive smoke and little actual power benefit. The one mod which would have affected engine performance is an electric high-volume fuel system. I had to decrease fuel pressure to about 25 psi, again, because of excess smoke.

Let me know how your second oil check goes. You may want to start a new thread, but post a link to it here.
 

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Ok, so I had no issues on the trip. Towed 400 miles, no oil used and got 13.4 miles per gallon whiile towing. No smoke or unusual noises. Of course, that doesn't mean there won't be an oil filter full of metal flakes when I cut it open after another 1000 miles or so. I will post up a new thread if I do find anything at that time. And one more step - I will hopefully have someone locally here with the AE tools give my truck a buzz test and CCT. I have been hearing an increasing lound ticking noise on the driver side which started about a month ago. There is a noticeable miss between the 1,100 and 1,500 RPM range. I would hope those couple AE tests should point me in the right direction as to what it might be? The tick is increasing audible with more go pedal and becomes less when the engine gets warmer (but the miss remains). When coasting/decelerating in gear, all goes quiet so I would think that rules out a loose rocker arm or valve train?
 
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