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Did this last week, thanks for the write up. I ended up just pulling the whole harness out and soldering the pigtails with it on the kitchen table.


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Sorry to reserrect an old thread but I think this is a good one. I have a 94.5 7.3 PSD that will not start and in my diagonoising found 3 bad glow plugs. Naturally there are two on the right bank and one on the left. This thread makes me want to upgrade to the super duty vcg with the single plug in.

Have many of you done this upgrade- any problems?

I guess it depends whether or not I find any burned wiring/ connections when I get in there. If I have to RxR the vcg and the internal harness, I'll probably upgrade. It would be cheaper to RxR with the OEM- with dual plugins. Have to start checking

I was able to see your pics, 410 customs- very nice job you've done (and James?) much cleaner loom than I have to look at. Thanks for the updated pdf. - handy to have a piece of paper in front of me doing this kind of thing.
 

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My factory ones on my 96 are still good after 23 years.

Why go to the trouble of putting the 99+ ones on if another set of OBS ones will last another 23 years quite possibly outliving the truck.

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
exactly!! I found the superduty UVCH has superior connections for the glow plug power wires PLUS the superduty parts can be had for cheaper then the OBS parts
 

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exactly!! I found the superduty UVCH has superior connections for the glow plug power wires PLUS the superduty parts can be had for cheaper then the OBS parts
^^^^^^ this- plus the fact I am unsure of how hold the present ones are. Since I ohmed out the Injectors and GP's and that checked out good I will probably leave well enough alone unless I find sign of heat damages under the VC then I'll have to make the decission--

:mad: Update on diagonistic's- HPOP pressure was zip- nadah not even a needle flicker :surprise: (measured at the ICP port on the oil rail, and/ but there was oil in the passage). If the IPR valve ( new from DOR) is not doing its thing could that cause a no oil pressure issue? Maybe a bad wire in the harness?? Or is this "0" oil pressure a bad pump thing and only that. I hope not.

I found your post Patrick on an old thread with the pdf on the pinout for the 42 pin connector- Thanks for posting that. We are supposed to get rain tommorrow afternoon but I think I'll have enough time to pull the engine top harness out so your pdf's will be very helpful. Boy I am so hoping I find a bad wire/ or two. Is there anything special about removing the harness??
 

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Be sure to check your hpop res to see if it’s full. It will be about an inch down.
 

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I checked that Sbluke55 and it was @ 1/4 down from the threads.

Wow- I just realized I'm on the wrong thread and the last part of my last post doesn't apply here- Sorry. That reply was to a thread I had started so I'll copy/paste it to that thread.
 

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My computer security blocked the download on my computer but I accepted the risk and it downloaded.

What browser are you using? You might want to check where your downloads are stored.
 

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1995 F350, 7.3, DRW, 2WD, 4.10, S&B CAI, 6.0 fan
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Going to tackle this project this weekend, does anyone know if anybody makes butt connectors that you crimp, but also has the solder seal in the middle?
 

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I'd stay.stay away from those connectors with the solder in the middle they are junk and will create bad solder joints.

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Automotive heat shrink is good over a good solder joint.

Stagger the splices so that you don't have a huge bulge in the center of where you splice everything. Also before everything is sealed up I'd test the wires from the IDM connector to the end of the plug for the gasket to make sure that nothing is mixed up.
 

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1995 F350, 7.3, DRW, 2WD, 4.10, S&B CAI, 6.0 fan
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Automotive heat shrink is good over a good solder joint.

Stagger the splices so that you don't have a huge bulge in the center of where you splice everything. Also before everything is sealed up I'd test the wires from the IDM connector to the end of the plug for the gasket to make sure that nothing is mixed up.
Staggering the splices, now that's something I never would have that to do lol

Forgive me, but can you explain what you mean about testing from IDM connect to end of plug?
 

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Checking the continuity of each wire going to the injectors. There have been some on here that have done what you are doing and end up switching a couple of the wires. They then spend hours trying to figure out just what it was that they did. Splicing the wires one at a time helps but a lot just cut off the old plug and then splice on the new one. Wire colors fade over the years and some may be questionable.

Here is a test that will tell you what wire goes where from the IDM plug.
 

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...butt connectors that you crimp, but also has the solder seal in the middle?
No. There's no reason to both crimp & solder. But the clear heat-shrink with sealing glue & a solder ring are effective if you heat them slowly & long enough for the solder to wick into the Copper strands. A small electric heat pen is better than a flame or large heat gun, which can scorch things before the solder can make the joint. I use these, and they DO work reliably:

 

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1995 F350, 7.3, DRW, 2WD, 4.10, S&B CAI, 6.0 fan
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Checking the continuity of each wire going to the injectors. There have been some on here that have done what you are doing and end up switching a couple of the wires. They then spend hours trying to figure out just what it was that they did. Splicing the wires one at a time helps but a lot just cut off the old plug and then splice on the new one. Wire colors fade over the years and some may be questionable.

Here is a test that will tell you what wire goes where from the IDM plug.
Well I was really hoping I wouldn't have to do this step but I am getting a no start after swapping everything over. Is following this procedure my best starting point? I did one wire at a time, but now am second guessing myself, nothing has been heat shrinked or wrapped yet.

I'm assuming when ohming out from female side of IDM connector you just hold one lead on one of the pins listed on the schematic and then the other on the other female pin listed?

I also went through majority of the 7.3 crank no start flow chart and most everything seems to be checking out. Tach moves (not very much), wait to start light comes on, crank case oil level is good, no smoke, fuel bowl is full (could not check pressure as my guage isn't long enough and I was the only one home to crank and do both), but fuel pump is less than 2 weeks old, batteries have been on charge overnight. I did already reinstall VC's so really hoping I don't need to re-pull these.

It may be worth it to add the ICP (Dorman) and IPR are both brand new as well, I may have an issue here as when I was cranking HPOP was showing no pressure. I unplugged ICP and this got me to around 2500 psi cranking but still got nothing as far as a start. Let me know what you guys think and if you need some more data?

I've got torque pro and FORscan lite on my phone for what it's worth.

Edit: So I ohmed everything out per the pdf above, everything fell within spec. EXCEPT when I got to the last one, Pin 24 (passenger side common) & Pin 18 (injector ground shield). I did not get OL, I had a reading. Would this short have caused damage to my IDM possibly?
 

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