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1995 F350, 7.3, DRW, 2WD, 4.10, S&B CAI, 6.0 fan
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23 Posts
Going to tackle this project this weekend, does anyone know if anybody makes butt connectors that you crimp, but also has the solder seal in the middle?
 

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1995 F350, 7.3, DRW, 2WD, 4.10, S&B CAI, 6.0 fan
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23 Posts
Automotive heat shrink is good over a good solder joint.

Stagger the splices so that you don't have a huge bulge in the center of where you splice everything. Also before everything is sealed up I'd test the wires from the IDM connector to the end of the plug for the gasket to make sure that nothing is mixed up.
Staggering the splices, now that's something I never would have that to do lol

Forgive me, but can you explain what you mean about testing from IDM connect to end of plug?
 

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1995 F350, 7.3, DRW, 2WD, 4.10, S&B CAI, 6.0 fan
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Checking the continuity of each wire going to the injectors. There have been some on here that have done what you are doing and end up switching a couple of the wires. They then spend hours trying to figure out just what it was that they did. Splicing the wires one at a time helps but a lot just cut off the old plug and then splice on the new one. Wire colors fade over the years and some may be questionable.

Here is a test that will tell you what wire goes where from the IDM plug.
Well I was really hoping I wouldn't have to do this step but I am getting a no start after swapping everything over. Is following this procedure my best starting point? I did one wire at a time, but now am second guessing myself, nothing has been heat shrinked or wrapped yet.

I'm assuming when ohming out from female side of IDM connector you just hold one lead on one of the pins listed on the schematic and then the other on the other female pin listed?

I also went through majority of the 7.3 crank no start flow chart and most everything seems to be checking out. Tach moves (not very much), wait to start light comes on, crank case oil level is good, no smoke, fuel bowl is full (could not check pressure as my guage isn't long enough and I was the only one home to crank and do both), but fuel pump is less than 2 weeks old, batteries have been on charge overnight. I did already reinstall VC's so really hoping I don't need to re-pull these.

It may be worth it to add the ICP (Dorman) and IPR are both brand new as well, I may have an issue here as when I was cranking HPOP was showing no pressure. I unplugged ICP and this got me to around 2500 psi cranking but still got nothing as far as a start. Let me know what you guys think and if you need some more data?

I've got torque pro and FORscan lite on my phone for what it's worth.

Edit: So I ohmed everything out per the pdf above, everything fell within spec. EXCEPT when I got to the last one, Pin 24 (passenger side common) & Pin 18 (injector ground shield). I did not get OL, I had a reading. Would this short have caused damage to my IDM possibly?
 

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1995 F350, 7.3, DRW, 2WD, 4.10, S&B CAI, 6.0 fan
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23 Posts
Post several good pics.
I realized that's where I screwed up, the foil and bare wire were just laying off to the side, so no doubt the bare wire was going to ground. Now I just don't know if that messed anything else up further.

I'm assuming since all injectors ohmed out about 3 that I'm good to go ahead and close everything up and get the bare wire and foil where it belongs.
 

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1995 F350, 7.3, DRW, 2WD, 4.10, S&B CAI, 6.0 fan
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23 Posts
I also was just able to get forscan lite to connect to my scanner for just long enough to run a buzz test, everything sounded good and got the P1111 at the end of it.
 
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