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jdffafarmer
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had lots of problems finding all the info on how to change ball joints when the time came so I decided I'd take some pictures and put them up here with the torques that I was able to find.

I went with Moog joints as well and decided to do all 4 while i was at it.

Tools:

Ball joint press (Went to O'Reilly's and got the kit--make sure to get the 4x4 kit)
Torque wrench
spanner socket for hub nuts (2.6 OD on the teeth i think about 2.25 ID)
Puller of some sort (Posi Lock)
Snap ring pliers
BFH
basic sockets/wrenches
torx

1. Remove wheel and use penetrating oil on the tie rod ball join stud as well as both studs on the knuckle

2. Remove the brake caliper and place out of the way. I was able to lay mine on the leaf spring.


3. If you have factory lock out hubs, remove the 3 T25 torx screws and the cap will come off. There is a snap ring around the inside of the hub. If you take a small screw driver you can work this ring out. (can see the ends of the ring on the right side of the hub)


4. Once the ring is removed the hub locking assembly can be removed to expose another snap ring and the nuts on the hub. I chose to leave the snap ring on the axle until after the hub is removed. Use the special socket to remove the nut, lock ring, and then the second inner nut.



5. Once those nuts are removed the whole hub is ready to be removed, when pulling off make sure not to lose the inner bearing. This leaves the snap ring holding the axle exposed.



6. Remove the 5 nuts at the base of the spindle. I then ran both axle nuts and the lock ring back on the spindle and used a posi-lock to press against the axle shaft and pull against the nuts. The spindle will not break free easily.


7. Once spindle is removed the axle just requires a good yank to remove. When doing the passenger side be sure the metal band holding the boot on is cut. You may need a pry bar against the u-joint to break it free.

8. Using a paint pen or sharpie, make sure to mark where the camber and lock nut are located. I used multiple marks to be sure of my alignment. Remove the cotter pins from the tie rod stud, and the castle nut on the ball joints (only my top one had a cotter pin).


9. Start with the tie rod end, both of mine came off fairly easily, remove nut and turn upside down and smack with BFH. Tie or wire the tie rod out of the way.

10. Remove the bottom ball joint nut until only a couple threads are holding. (this will keep the knuckle from falling and breaking your foot) Then remove the top nut. I turned it upside down then and once again used a BFH to break the knuckle loose from the tapers on the ball joints.


11. Once removed I used the ball joint press to press the bottom joint out first and then the top. Sorry didn't take any pictures here but make sure to dig the dirt out from around the joint and find the adapter in the kit that best fits around the ball joint.

12. I cleaned everything up with brake cleaner. Repacked the bearings and started reassembly. To help keep the ball joint studs from spinning on reassembly I used a jack to put pressure on the bottom of the knuckle. Follow the torque procedure given with the ball joints. For my Moogs the Initial bottom torque was 35 ftlbs then top to 69 ftlbs and then final lower was 150 ftlbs.

13. Reattach the tie rod end and torque to 50 ftlbs

14. If you want to do U joints now would be the time. Otherwise place the axle back in and mount the spindle. Torque the 5 nuts to 34 ftlbs.

15. Replace axle snap ring and spacers. Place hub back on spindle and tighten first nut to 50 ftlbs to seat bearings. Make sure nipple is to the outside. Rotate hub and back off a quarter turn maximum. Line up the lock ring hole with the nipple on the nut by moving it as little as possible. Tighten outer nut to 50 ftlbs.

16. Replace locking hub assembly and place snap ring inside hub.

17. Replace hub lock.

18. Replace caliper.

19. Replace wheel.

Some people recommend getting an alignment when doing ball joints. I have not gotten one yet but the pickup has been driving nice and straight for 1000 miles and handles just fine when I got up to 95 the other day. :doh:

Good luck to everyone. Hope this helps bring all the info together that I found. :psn:
 

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Good job on the write up. Good pictures and descriptions. I ran into a different scenario though. Truck is 96 f350 4x4 7.3L

I went and rented balljoint press, bought the 2 and 5/8 spanner socket. When I get to step 4, my axle does not have a small snap ring like the one in your picture. There is no snap ring at all but I can see a large snap ring or ring behind the axle nut. The nut is also very different, it's larger and almost takes up the entire ID of the housing. I did not count but it seemed to be an 8 sided or more nut. With no cutout for a spanner type socket. Any help would be appreciated. Had to throw it back together and will try again when I find the right tools to do the job.
 

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Rippy I'm guessing you have auto locking hubs, which use a different kind of spindle nut.

Balljoint directions are easy to find in a factory service manual. ;)
 

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jdffafarmer
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The snap ring on the splined shaft is only on the f250 trucks with the Dana 50 axle. I didn't know some if the auto hubs used different axle nuts...our 93 f250 uses the same 2.25 socket that my 97 f250 uses and the Dana 60 I Installed under it. Sorry for the confusion, hope you get it figured out.
 

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first, I would never put a puller pushing on the axle shaft to pull the spindle.
the slide hammer tool looks to be the best option (bought one recently but have never used one, always did the sledge hammer block of wood method) something like the OTC 7502

older d60 also had a snapring, I had to create a snapring groove when I swapped to 1978 spicer hubs. i think aftermarket axleshafts will have the groove

I think I would need a picture of this 8 sided nut. are you seeing a double nut and assuming its one? the thread pitch and size is shared by many rear axles so there is a chance someone swapped the spanner style for a 2 9/16" from a rear axle.

the rear axle in your truck (at least in my 97) is another oddball ratcheting locking nut that takes a special spanner style to remove and install

these were used on other danas in that era with a stake pin that was pushed in to the nylon to lock it in place. shares the same thread and would swap



ford ratcheting setup from the rear axle would probably swap as well but I havent tested to see if they fit, this would suck as the proper tool for it slides into the axle tube bore to locate it properly



someone could have gone oldskool with these




PS- I bought a balljoint press kit (OTC I think) and the f350 balljoints are too large for the receiver sleeves they provide. I Mickey'd it to work but it is not pretty and destroys/distorts the receiver sleeves
 

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Rippy I'm guessing you have auto locking hubs, which use a different kind of spindle nut.

Balljoint directions are easy to find in a factory service manual. ;)

I don't have auto locking hubs, I have manual. Balljoint directions are easy to find in a factory service manual.... Thanks, I didn't know that.
 

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I think I would need a picture of this 8 sided nut. are you seeing a double nut and assuming its one? the thread pitch and size is shared by many rear axles so there is a chance someone swapped the spanner style for a 2 9/16" from a rear axle.

the rear axle in your truck (at least in my 97) is another oddball ratcheting locking nut that takes a special spanner style to remove and install

these were used on other danas in that era with a stake pin that was pushed in to the nylon to lock it in place. shares the same thread and would swap



The nut you have in the bottom and top pic (atleast they appear to be about the same) is the nut I'm seeing on my axle shaft. Do you know if the socket for this nut can be bought at local parts stores? Thanks.
 

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I feel salty for you using Moog parts. You could of bought XRF parts cheaper which are also of superior quality
 

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Moog is not the company we all remember from years back. Still better than any of the parts store brands, except the napa high end joints.
 

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they are not the same thing at all, but IIRC my dodge axles used a 2 9/16" socket with the 'stack pin in nylon' style nut that I got from the auto parts store. kind of a formed sheet metal item
 

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they are not the same thing at all, but IIRC my dodge axles used a 2 9/16" socket with the 'stack pin in nylon' style nut that I got from the auto parts store. kind of a formed sheet metal item
m j : thanks for your replies. This 2 and 9/16" nut must be what I have on my f350 dana60.. Do you have any idea of why I would have this style nut on my axle? Is there a possibility my front axle is off of a dodge? According to the NAPA socket description it was used on "90-93 dodge trucks with D60".... Truck has 290k and i've owned for about 10k miles.
 

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I change my thought after doing research I think my axle has a auto locking nut on it, 2 and 3/4 rounded style nut. Although I have manual locking hubs. and truck is an XL with no controls anywhere in dash for autolocking hubs... no idea as to how or why this nut got on my axle.
 

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your axle is not off a dodge. what can happen is someone prefers that style of spindle nut as they have the tool for it, or someone damaged the stock nuts using a punch to remove them and a shop replaces them with what is easily available.
end result is the same so it doesnt really matter what style you use.
if you want to be really bling stage 8 makes a very cool setup for that
 

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I run Spicer ball joints (original equipment for Dana axle)......so far lasted longer than Moog and XRF. And they are greaseable.

Billy T.
[email protected]
 

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I had good luck with spicer gold parts
 

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How long did your XRFs last you Billy?
I forget, I'll have to dig through my service records. IIRC, they were about the same as the Moogs hence the reason I went with Spicers. I wasn't impressed with XRF but that's just me.

I bought the Spicer parts from Doug of Extreme Axle Sales
He is about a 1/2hr from me.

Billy T.
[email protected]
 
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