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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
I'm sitting on a stump over a no com issue that has somehow happened during a period while the truck was parked for 2 ish years..

As I know it: early model 2004 F350 6.0 pushing 400k KLM Canadian
I am the second owner. The first owner took very good care and maintenance on her. I have followed through as well.
In my 6 years with this Power Stroke I have had only small easy issues to attend to, up graded ficm, IPC, new set of injectors, one turbo maintenance... All many miles ago.
She has been an excellent work/tow and long hauler for us in all weather conditions.

Last year (in passing info) a runaway Jeep drove into the drivers door, other than that she is "all" original.
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Checking the diagnostic port pin 16 good 4&5 solid, pins 6 & 14 nothing period. If I were to guess I'd guess 14 is interrupted somewhere?
A question: Is there a junction between the can pair before the PCM and obd2 port?
I am thinking its time to open the harness

Thanks
 

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I can't help much since you have a 6.0 but,

What are you trying to do? Do you have a code reader that will read heavy duty diesels codes?

Here is a pin out of the data connector, some of the ones that you mention are not used at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Bugman<
In the pdf above there is a contradiction for pin 13. Pin 14 is is correct and standard.

A bit more information: the engine starts quick, idles well, but at first I thought I was feel a hesitation? Felt like a flat spot on the TPS. As I was changing fluids and flushing systems I waited to check codes and run a diagnostics.
The other thing I noticed is the dealer installed theft system (a dealer option at the time of purchase) wasn't engaging.
 

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Check fuse #12 (cigar lighter fuse - 20 AMP mini fuse). You can also verify that the cigar lighter works or doesn't work.
If it doesn't work, verify that you have B+ (battery voltage) to pin #16 of the DLC (Data Link Connector - OBDII port). This terminal should be powered at ALL times.

Then .....

Check fuse #22. It is the fuse on the power supply to the PCM (provides power with the key in the "run" position). If fuse 22 is good, check the power to fuse 22. Note that the Fan clutch, IPR valve, GPCM, EGR actuator, and the MAF sensor all receive power from fuse 22. You can check power at these locations (RED wire).

Also, ground G100 is necessary for the PCM relay to work - harness ground to the firewall (by the master cylinder). Verify it isn't damaged and is making a solid electrical connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Bismic adding it to today's schedule.

I had some issues activating my alldata account/file after many years of not using it. I'll have that to jog the fading grey cells as well;)
 

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Check fuse #12 (cigar lighter fuse - 20 AMP mini fuse). You can also verify that the cigar lighter works or doesn't work.
If it doesn't work, verify that you have B+ (battery voltage) to pin #16 of the DLC (Data Link Connector - OBDII port). This terminal should be powered at ALL times.

Then .....

Check fuse #22. It is the fuse on the power supply to the PCM (provides power with the key in the "run" position). If fuse 22 is good, check the power to fuse 22. Note that the Fan clutch, IPR valve, GPCM, EGR actuator, and the MAF sensor all receive power from fuse 22. You can check power at these locations (RED wire).

Also, ground G100 is necessary for the PCM relay to work - harness ground to the firewall (by the master cylinder). Verify it isn't damaged and is making a solid electrical connection.
And this is why I read through threads even though I know someone competent is giving advice. There's always something to learn! I knew about fuses 12 and 22, but I didn't know about the ground. That's good info to tuck away in the noggin!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You are so right!
Often times folks are busy especially the middle aged ones raising families and earning a living; and yet, they make time to help complete strangers, which in most cases they will never meet.
In my experience sharing of bites in knowledge is the sign of a confident person.
If you can't find them then they often find you, get enough of "them" together you find a great forum.
Ask enough questions and a forum develops into a community with a beat.

Back to business: life got a touch busy yesterday and prevented progress on the old lady.
I am anxious to test power and continuity from the data port to the PCM connections this will at least in my mind expose the condition of the harness. Checking for power at the PCM will also help with that.
Not sure if I'm stuck on stupid but reading an open at the data port is pushing me in that direction? (harness)
I know I checked all the fuses under the left side of the dash, also checked the grounds on the firewall both sides.
But I haven't checked the ground at the PCM other than knowing the grounds at the data port are good, (load tested).
Bismic is on the scent though, if I can't read 2ish volts at the port pins PCM isn't waking up.

My edginess is on this model is, do I have the correct diagrams for the early 04? Vin "P" but chit finding those pin numbers off a diagram that doesn't jive is a pain in the...

Thanks guy be back tonight
 

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Week batteries fried my pcm… I had no comm threw obd2 put used pcm and got my comm back … I pulled pcm off took it apart and could clearly see the bad spots that blew… I’ve got other issues but
Circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic component Electronic device Gadget
Circuit component Hardware programmer Motor vehicle Electronic engineering Electronic component
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Eh thanks for the post RC.

I had some time to work on it today below is what I found:

Keeping in mind the engine is running well and she'll engage the trans, but I think more importantly it being an early 04.
Finding the pins is really beyond me? So I tracked down the wiring by color and shields. So using alldata I found a schematic that had a note saying color change in the harness for pin 13 from white/lt green Pink/yel and pin 14 from pink/lt grn to Red/wht! That was a bingo at the plug so I peeled back the rap a bit more to be sure.
Then I pinged them back to the Data Plug, pin 13 (at PCM connector) was good which is pin 6 at the Data Port. Pin 14 at (PCM connector) which is also 14 at Data Port was open....

So I measured ohms at 13 & 14 on the PCM (NO CONNECTOR TOO - WERE ATTACHED) my reading was 121.5..
Now what do you guys think, is 120 ohms at pins 13 & 14 make sense given I had NO other connectors on at the PCM?
I read this as 13 &14 are talking to one another in the module as I got a reading? And the other parallel 60ohm is elsewhere and not in com with the PCM. Or am I off my rocker?

If my thinking is right then I'll run a new twisted pair shielded and splice in at the harness some inches down where it will be protected, soldered shrink rapped and taped back up.

One other question: on the 03/04 does the PCM need programming if swapped with a working one from another vehicle?

Thanks for the posts guys
 

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Eh thanks for the post RC.

I had some time to work on it today below is what I found:

Keeping in mind the engine is running well and she'll engage the trans, but I think more importantly it being an early 04.
Finding the pins is really beyond me? So I tracked down the wiring by color and shields. So using alldata I found a schematic that had a note saying color change in the harness for pin 13 from white/lt green Pink/yel and pin 14 from pink/lt grn to Red/wht! That was a bingo at the plug so I peeled back the rap a bit more to be sure.
Then I pinged them back to the Data Plug, pin 13 (at PCM connector) was good which is pin 6 at the Data Port. Pin 14 at (PCM connector) which is also 14 at Data Port was open....

So I measured ohms at 13 & 14 on the PCM (NO CONNECTOR TOO - WERE ATTACHED) my reading was 121.5..
Now what do you guys think, is 120 ohms at pins 13 & 14 make sense given I had NO other connectors on at the PCM?
I read this as 13 &14 are talking to one another in the module as I got a reading? And the other parallel 60ohm is elsewhere and not in com with the PCM. Or am I off my rocker?

If my thinking is right then I'll run a new twisted pair shielded and splice in at the harness some inches down where it will be protected, soldered shrink rapped and taped back up.

One other question: on the 03/04 does the PCM need programming if swapped with a working one from another vehicle?

Thanks for the posts guys
Well hope these guys can answer your data pin questions that’s to technical for me… I changed my pcm out with a know working one WITH SAME PART # no programming required.. but others might need to be programmed to your vin ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks RC that is good to here.
I think the term is "tare tag"
Updating is is much easier than flashing and reprogramming.
 
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