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Discussion Starter #1
completely bulletproofed 06 6.0 about 3 months ago with maybe 800 miles. I mean top to bottom with some aftermarket parts as well. been using the truck to plow etc it's not my daily. have had no issues since now yesterday I drove to my parents to plow out their driveway truck ran great pulled hard no issues. halfway through plowing it almost had what felt like a skip and alot of black smoke, finished plowing took the truck down the road and again alot of black smoke and very sluggish almost like no power. I turned the key off and tried to restart the truck and it would not fire no smell of diesel no smoke. friend showed up quick shot of either and it fired up and idled but pressed the gas in park and again very laggy sluggish no smoke, shifted to drive immediately died has not restarted since. fuel pressure at 65 psi with normal drop off when truck shuts off the tank seems alittle louder than normal I may be wrong and I have about 1/4 tank.

today I drained water separator no contamination, changed fuel filters and tried with icp sensor unplugged and plugged in no difference. icp last night read 200-300 than would hit 600+ psi. today I tried starting and icp would barely hit 300psi. it seems as if truck is not getting fuel/fueling. only codes are open glow plug circuit, open cam and crank circuit as well as low icp which I got while unplugged. pulled codes and data log using my sct programmer.

ficm rebuilt and tuned with atlas 80 hpop is new/stc fitting updated/ipr & icp sensor new/crank & cam sensor new updated stand pipes and dummy plugs etc all done about 800 miles ago among many other items.

does that sound like I'm headed in the right direction with assuming it's a fueling issue? any insight would be great as I'm on my last leg with this truck before I take a bath and sell it....

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"resident smarty pants"
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Post the code numbers. It helps.

Does the dash oil pressure gauge come up when cranking?

Are your oil filter cap and oil filter both OEM?

Will your secondary fuel filter fill up quickly with just the key on (a two-person test)?

Are you sure the fuel tank gauge is accurate?

What rpm are you cranking at?

Do you still have a working EGR system? If so, have you pulled the valve recently?

Just as an FYI - the SCT is not a good code reader. I would recommend downloading ForScan Lite to your phone. Then get a BAFX ELM327 adapter (WiFi for i-phone and Bluetooth for Android).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Post the code numbers. It helps.

Does the dash oil pressure gauge come up when cranking?

Are your oil filter cap and oil filter both OEM?

Will your secondary fuel filter fill up quickly with just the key on (a two-person test)?

Are you sure the fuel tank gauge is accurate?

What rpm are you cranking at?

Do you still have a working EGR system? If so, have you pulled the valve recently?

Just as an FYI - the SCT is not a good code reader. I would recommend downloading ForScan Lite to your phone. Then get a BAFX ELM327 adapter (WiFi for i-phone and Bluetooth for Android).
yes the dash guage comes us as normal and when cranking. before it was bulletproofed the truck had a bad crank sensor and would cause intermittent sync with truck and sometimes no start or delayed start and plenty of smoke would come out the exhaust leasing me to believe now as it's the opposite it's a fueling issue. codes were:
P0670
P2285
P2614
P2617

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Discussion Starter #4
Post the code numbers. It helps.

Does the dash oil pressure gauge come up when cranking?

Are your oil filter cap and oil filter both OEM?

Will your secondary fuel filter fill up quickly with just the key on (a two-person test)?

Are you sure the fuel tank gauge is accurate?

What rpm are you cranking at?

Do you still have a working EGR system? If so, have you pulled the valve recently?

Just as an FYI - the SCT is not a good code reader. I would recommend downloading ForScan Lite to your phone. Then get a BAFX ELM327 adapter (WiFi for i-phone and Bluetooth for Android).
yes both caps are oem. motorcraft filters all around as well. I have not had a second person to help with other fuel test. yes I'm positive the gas guage works and is accurate and no egr has long been deleted. I was really hoping to see my fuel pressure guage read low rather than the 60+ as soon my pump shuts off it bleeds down rather quickly to about 20psi. cranking rpms is normal 125+.

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"resident smarty pants"
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The 6.0 really needs 150 rpm to start.

P2285 could be due to trying to start w/ it unplugged.

Cam and crank sensor codes could be from excessive cranks or a stall event. That said, a shorted out injector coil could also cause these codes.

Charge the batteries and load test them individually. Try to crank at 150+ rpm and then record FICM MPower and LPower when cranking.

The main code to address seems to be the P0670 .... which indicates a bad GPCM (or, less likely, a PCM issue).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The 6.0 really needs 150 rpm to start.



P2285 could be due to trying to start w/ it unplugged.



Cam and crank sensor codes could be from excessive cranks or a stall event. That said, a shorted out injector coil could also cause these codes.



Charge the batteries and load test them individually. Try to crank at 150+ rpm and then record FICM MPower and LPower when cranking.



The main code to address seems to be the P0670 .... which indicates a bad GPCM (or, less likely, a PCM issue).
I have both batteries on charger now, they were both replaced when truck was in shop and have had no issues until this point but I will load test. I also just downloaded the forscan app and bought the adapter off eBay for $14.99 shipping out from Wisconsin cheap investment! and again with the truck in shop I had a reflashed pcm purchased from all computer resources and ficm was rebuilt from ficmrepair.com I really want alittle excessive with doing everything I thought possible while the truck was in the shop to avoid issues like this one...

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"resident smarty pants"
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Let's hope it is as simple as a bad GPCM.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Since you have fuel pressure (and it is normal to quickly bleed down when you turn it off), then your next test is to see if you fill the secondary fuel filter bowl (as suggested earlier). If it fills quickly, then you don't have a fuel supply issue - IMO anyway.

A bad GPCM could impact the PCM, so it is possible that performance as well as starting, could be impacted.

Then again, so could low system voltage. When you can't see the truck, then numbers are required ............ MPower and LPower at a minimum as suggested earlier.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Since you have fuel pressure (and it is normal to quickly bleed down when you turn it off), then your next test is to see if you fill the secondary fuel filter bowl (as suggested earlier). If it fills quickly, then you don't have a fuel supply issue - IMO anyway.

A bad GPCM could impact the PCM, so it is possible that performance as well as starting, could be impacted.

Then again, so could low system voltage. When you can't see the truck, then numbers are required ............ MPower and LPower at a minimum as suggested earlier.
ok thanks for the insight Thursday night is the next night I'm able to work on it with a second set of hands to try the other fuel test. my ficm when trying to start it with some battery life lost was 11.50 ficm ignition and 47.50 ficm internally. are they ant numbers I can pull up on my sct under the new tool comes in that will be useful?

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"resident smarty pants"
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Thanks for the FICM numbers, they are good values.

Once you get the big code issues resolved (GPCM), and you prove you have fuel flow, you need to crank and see if you still have low ICP values. And you need to verify that the FICM is commanding the injectors.

When cranking:
ICP pressure, psig
ICP pressure, volts
IPR, % duty cycle
Can/crank sync
FICM sync
rpm
mass fuel desired
Injector pulse width (sometimes called fuel pulse width)

I am hoping/expecting that the GPCM issues are preventing the PCM and FICM from issuing the fueling commands.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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I see that you have logged on since I wrote the above post.

I like to have everything checked out when making recommendations - for that reason I ask for a lot of information.

That said, I will be a little bit stronger in my wording. I have seen a bad GPCM interfere with fueling and cause an engine to die when the accelerator pedal is pushed. IMO that is highly likely to be the main issue (there still could be a secondary ICP issue though). That said, since this is all over the internet (and sight unseen), I like to try to cover the cheap angles before recommending to spend money.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I see that you have logged on since I wrote the above post.



I like to have everything checked out when making recommendations - for that reason I ask for a lot of information.



That said, I will be a little bit stronger in my wording. I have seen a bad GPCM interfere with fueling and cause an engine to die when the accelerator pedal is pushed. IMO that is highly likely to be the main issue (there still could be a secondary ICP issue though). That said, since this is all over the internet (and sight unseen), I like to try to cover the cheap angles before recommending to spend money.
yes sorry for the delay between service calls yesterday I was able to work on it some, I checked all my connections cleaned my air filter as well as pulling the ipr valve out. no debri no blockage no tears in the screen however the two oring seals that sit below the screen we're both broken. I'm going to pick up a new screen and seal kit today and reinstall it all. I have had batteries on charge and go from there. is there a way to perform any type of test on the glow plug module?

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The GPCM can fail in a number of ways, since it is essentially a computer. I don't think the ordinary owner can test very many things. You can check to see if the glow plugs are being properly activated, but that doesn't mean that there isn't a processing glitch that is messing w/ the PCM. But remember, you do have a code for it, and I have never seen a "false" P0670.

To do a simple electrical test on the GPCM.
Install an inductive amp meter on one of the main glow plug harnesses. You can get up to 200 A at first, but then should stabilize around 35-45 A. Check the other side. Both sides should read the same.

You could get the engine started and then disconnect the GPCM. Then see if it does the same thing or if the engine dying quits. IIRC it is the green connector that has the wires that connect w/ the PCM.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The GPCM can fail in a number of ways, since it is essentially a computer. I don't think the ordinary owner can test very many things. You can check to see if the glow plugs are being properly activated, but that doesn't mean that there isn't a processing glitch that is messing w/ the PCM. But remember, you do have a code for it, and I have never seen a "false" P0670.

To do a simple electrical test on the GPCM.
Install an inductive amp meter on one of the main glow plug harnesses. You can get up to 200 A at first, but then should stabilize around 35-45 A. Check the other side. Both sides should read the same.

You could get the engine started and then disconnect the GPCM. Then see if it does the same thing or if the engine dying quits. IIRC it is the green connector that has the wires that connect w/ the PCM.
I will reinstall the ipr valve tonight and give that a try. that is eye opening as I thought the gpcm just activated the glow plugs and after the engine would be warm example with the truck being driven and idled while plowing that the glow plugs would be not needed or the control module would have no reason at that point to communicate with the pcm, especially while trying to restart the engine as it was up to normal temps and I shut it down with the key. or this part of the system could effectively not allow the truck to fuel definitely informative information

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An electrical glitch really doesn't have anything to do w/ the intended function .........

These modern diesels are quite complicated in all the computer modules and how they all tie back to the PCM.
 

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An electrical glitch really doesn't have anything to do w/ the intended function .........

These modern diesels are quite complicated in all the computer modules and how they all tie back to the PCM.
well I installed a new ipr screen and seal kit as well as cleaned my air filter and ended up purchasing a new glow plug control module to the tune of $211.76 from the dealer after giving mine a once over it had visible wear and what looks like water possibly got inside at one time. as well as your advice AND it fired right up! no check engine light other than my on off again air bag light. runs great no issues thank you! you put me in the right direction and the truck is good to go.


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Glad it is running ok now.

As I said, these engines can get complicated. Even shops can end up replacing parts and simply hoping that they fixed the right thing (and I still think that you never really needed a new HPOP).

As you said, who would think on the surface that a GPCM failure would interfere with fueling. Identifying that is either done by experience, or by extensive testing. I like to see thorough testing, but not a lot of shops will take the time for it. Also, it is next to impossible to get enough information over the internet to be completely sure.

I asked for codes and you gave them to me. That was the start of identifying the problems. Thank you for that. You wouldn't believe how many people won't post codes, or worse .... how many people refuse to see the value in a quality code reader and scan tool (and it is only a $40 investment).

I try not to tell people to spend money unless I am fairly sure of the recommendation, but it doesn't always work out to be correct ... c'est la vie. I even tell people to ONLY buy OEM filters - I mean how conservative is that!!?? After all, it is only a free internet forum, with advice being offered by strangers, who haven't ever seen the vehicle. Not an easy thing sometimes.
 

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Glad it is running ok now.

As I said, these engines can get complicated. Even shops can end up replacing parts and simply hoping that they fixed the right thing (and I still think that you never really needed a new HPOP).

As you said, who would think on the surface that a GPCM failure would interfere with fueling. Identifying that is either done by experience, or by extensive testing. I like to see thorough testing, but not a lot of shops will take the time for it. Also, it is next to impossible to get enough information over the internet to be completely sure.

I asked for codes and you gave them to me. That was the start of identifying the problems. Thank you for that. You wouldn't believe how many people won't post codes, or worse .... how many people refuse to see the value in a quality code reader and scan tool (and it is only a $40 investment).

I try not to tell people to spend money unless I am fairly sure of the recommendation, but it doesn't always work out to be correct ... c'est la vie. I even tell people to ONLY buy OEM filters - I mean how conservative is that!!?? After all, it is only a free internet forum, with advice being offered by strangers, who haven't ever seen the vehicle. Not an easy thing sometimes.
it is running very good, plenty of fuel no drop in psi and my egts are normal. the scan tool should be here next week but like you said a cheap investment. I hear what you are saying about the filters not that much more money but peace of mind is there and I religiously change the filters anyways. I also don't think my hpop was bad either however like I mentioned I had an extensive overhaul done to the truck and drivetrain with the cab off and motor taken out of frame. With being this deep into the project I figured it was worth it while everything was apart, I have a company service truck and just use this for pleasure as a toy and I plow with it in the winter so it doesn't just sit. thank you again for your advice!


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