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Discussion Starter #1
I know this has been talked about a bunch of times and I'm having trouble finding the links. Anyway, truck starts fine cold(oil thick) drive truck and turn it off (oil thin) truck won't start. I check the HPOP regularly and this time it is low. So I top it off and it still won't start til it cools off. I haven't put a gauge on either side nor blocked off either line from it yet because I don't have a gauge not the fittings. Who has this gauge/ what type of gauge should I use? And what type of fittings are they that are needed? I also am wondering if it is the ICP or the IPR. I am only speculating here I am NOT the trained professional like alot of ya'll. Because two of the codes I have had are p1212 yesterday when the truck quit and wouldn't start and the fuel station. And p0603 today and the mechanic's garage who put a snap on scanner on it. I hope I covered alot of the questions. Oh one more thing I have removed the fuel bowl heater and checked all of the fuses all are good.
 

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Early bird gets the worm
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I would suspect the IPR. That what caused mine/others to not start when hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
even though the HPOP is low on oil?
 

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If the internal ipr orings are bad it can cause a hard or no start while hot. If the orings are bad and you are cranking on it trying to start it could drain the hpop res.
 

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WHAT???
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I just had the same issue and it was the ipr.. Not saying that's your issue though.
 

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You can get a o-ring kit from international and rebuild your IPR, I would do that first prior to buying the IPR. As I recall you need a minimum of 500 psi oil pressure in the heads to fire injectors...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thats the sensor that screws into the hpop on the drivers side of the engine real close to the ICP correct? I think Tom S. or someone else even has a picture of the top of the motor somewhere on here I just can't find it right now that tells what every thing is.
 

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IPR is screwed into the back of the HPOP, down low in the valley (ICP is the one at a inboard 45 degree angle on the front of the driver's side head). Try the external o-ring kit first as bad o-rings will cause a hot no-start.

IPR O-Ring Kit (for when IPR valve replacement is not required)
(Ford) F6TZ-9C977-AA
(International) 1825806C92

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What is the sensor above the IPR? Oh and do I need any special wrench to get this thing out? I ordered the o ring kit from international today it will be in when I get off work. So this oring kit I am getting please explain where they go. I was under the impression I would be removing the IPR and putting these o rings on that. I'm confused a bit now. Do they go on the high pressure lines or on the IPR? I was reading on one of the post somewhere that I may need to remove the high pressure oil lines on the hpop. Either way can some one straiten me out.
 

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The other sensor should be the Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) sensor. Normally you need to remove the fuel bowl, but some have done it without removing it (albeit with a special homemade wrench). Disconnect the wiring, remove the "tin nut" and the solenoid coil. If you have a Mighty Vac, suck out the HPOP reservoir. Using a 1-1/8" deepwell socket, remove the IPR. You will be putting the o-rings on the IPR body. Just note the order that they go on. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks fellas. the IPR o rings were torn. I have to finish putting the top of the truck together in the morning because I had to do the fuel pump also. YUCK! So I decided since I don't have all my items to do the electronic conversion yet I am cleaning the fpr, the screens, the bowl, replacing the high pressure lines (the new ones are also designed to work on the new electronic set up), the engine valley, and whatever else I came across in that area that needed attention.
 

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I have a couple of IPR o-rings kits for sale if you need one.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Tom but the local International dealer had one and I took it. Oh just an FYI for ya'll I found at my local tractor supply type store call Orscheln's I found the gasket/oring for the turbo to the Y pipe for $1.99 instead of an arm and a leg at the ford stealership.
 
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