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2002 f250 lariat 7.3 4r100 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m met with another problem..

2002 f250 lariat 7.3 auto 4x4, 240k miles

I had a little trouble over the weekend where the truck didn’t want to start right up on a cool morning around 50 degrees. No big deal I though, cycled the key twice and it fired up with a little white smoke as expected. Fast forward to this morning, it’s 62 out and it wouldn’t even hiccup after trying for 10-15 mins. No smoke puffing, nothing. Now I know it’s getting cooler out since it’s fall, but shouldn’t it start without having to plug it in when it’s still in the 60s?? my gpr was warm to the touch, jumped it with a screwdriver for about 45 seconds, still nothing. Wait light came on like it should. I have new motorcraft glow plugs and valve cover gaskets/harnesses with less than 3k miles on them, new injector o rings, new starter Thats 4 days old, 2 new batteries that are 4 months old. I’m at a loss right now. I’m not sure what to do. Let’s say I go try starting later when it’s 70ish out and it starts, or if I plug it up over night and it starts in 55-60 degree tomorrow morning. what could be causing this? If it’s the gpr, what would be the most effective way to test it?
 

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Since you got no smoke I am going to say it is NOT a glow plug issue. Did the tach move when cranking?
THE CPS my have died, the fuel pump may have died, or it may just be out of fuel
 

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2002 f250 lariat 7.3 4r100 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Since you got no smoke I am going to say it is NOT a glow plug issue. Did the tach move when cranking?
THE CPS my have died, the fuel pump may have died, or it may just be out of fuel
Full tank of fuel, filled up last night for the work week, it’s an 02 so the tach doesn’t move, cps is fairly new. just replaced it recently, actually my last post was about a bad idle/ misfire/ hard start and it was the cps. But I know they’re a gamble as it is anyway so I’ll throw a new one on to be safe. If not, I’ll have an extra to throw in the glovebox lol. And I could hear the fuel pump too.
 

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Just for giggles, jump the glowplug relay before starting.
I wouldn't just rule out glowplugs off the bat. I have seen some of these just really like having the glowplugs operational, even if it isn't that cold.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just for giggles, jump the glowplug relay before starting.
I wouldn't just rule out glowplugs off the bat. I have seen some of these just really like having the glowplugs operational, even if it isn't that cold.

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i already did that and didn’t make a difference. No smoke or anything.

my gpr was warm to the touch, jumped it with a screwdriver for about 45 seconds, still nothing
 

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I remember when my GPR died several years back, it wouldn't start when it was 74* out, so just because its warm, doesn't mean it won't start without it. I agree it might not be a Glow Plug issue though
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I remember when my GPR died several years back, it wouldn't start when it was 74* out. I agree it might not be a Glow Plug issue though
how often does A gpr go bad in these things? This ones maybe 1-2 years old. But the plugs are all new, harnesses are new, the relay was warm and I jumped the posts anyway with no better result.
 

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I had a cheap Vato Zone relay for 6 years with no problems. Only reason I swapped it out was because I bought and entirely new engine harness and it had a Motorcraft one in it. They're not very common when they go bad, but some people have pretty bad luck.

If you jumped the terminals and it still didn't start, its not the relay.
 

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Might be worth checking the resistance/continuity of each glow plug though - just to be sure.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
okay so if it’s not the relay and all the glow plugs check out, what would be the next step? Just in case.
im at work right now so it’ll be this evening before I can check and I’d like to get a small list/rundown so I don’t have to bug you guys too much through each step. Could it Just be the cps if it’s still doing it when it’s warm later? I know they’re very sensitive and finicky. This is the first time ive ever had an absolute no-start with this truck. It ran perfect yesterday when I parked it. Kinda weird how it’s all of a sudden.
 

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Data is always helpful... I would recommend that you get FORScan and a dongle. I personally use a usb dongle (OBDLink EX) with my laptop to watch PIDs and record the data. There is a FORScan app for phones and many folks here recommend either a Bafx wifi/bluetooth or an OBDLink MX. FORScan will let you see what the cranking RPM even when the dash won't. You can also look at IPR, CPS, EOT and other useful PIDs. You'll be able to to read and clear codes and do simple buzz and contribution tests. Data will let you make informed decisions as to what is happening in the engine. It will help you avoid "throwing" parts at the truck.

You can try unplugging the ICP and then starting the engine. This will force the PCM to use a lookup table for high pressure control.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Data is always helpful... I would recommend that you get FORScan and a dongle. I personally use a usb dongle (OBDLink EX) with my laptop to watch PIDs and record the data. There is a FORScan app for phones and many folks here recommend either a Bafx wifi/bluetooth or an OBDLink MX. FORScan will let you see what the cranking RPM even when the dash won't. You can also look at IPR, CPS, EOT and other useful PIDs. You'll be able to to read and clear codes and do simple buzz and contribution tests. Data will let you make informed decisions as to what is happening in the engine. It will help you avoid "throwing" parts at the truck.

You can try unplugging the ICP and then starting the engine. This will force the PCM to use a lookup table for high pressure control.

Cj
thank you, I’ll give that a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay got home, tried firing it again and it still didn’t do anything. It turned over like a champ, but no smoke, smelled the exhaust, didn’t smell like fuel or any kind of vapor, glow plug relay was working, checked with a multimeter key on and off. I ordered a bafx obd reader, but it won’t be here til Thursday. I actually already had forscan on my phone and forgot all about it because I planned on buying a reader since none of mine would register the diesel diagnostics. Anyway, given the ruling out one thing by one with a multimeter and added symptoms like no vapors or smoke or anything, I’m leaning towards a cps issue. Could be wrong, but like I said.. if it doesn’t fix it, I’ve still got a back up to throw in the glovebox with a 10mm and ratchet since they’re well known to go out and are a gamble to begin with.
 

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That's a good starting point.
Icp sensor can go wonky as well. That one you can just unplug it, then try starting.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That's a good starting point.
Icp sensor can go wonky as well. That one you can just unplug it, then try starting.

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I forgot to mention because I actually forgot, but the icp is 2 months old. I unplugged it for giggles though and it didn’t do anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Changed the cps, nothing happened. Plugged it in overnight and it didn’t make a difference. But another issue with that.. the plug got hot and melted the drop cord socket to the prongs. It’s almost as if the truck isn’t getting fuel and/or fire. I pulled the filter. Bowl was full of healthy diesel, filter is a month old and still looks good.
 

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What gauge was the drop cord? You need a heavy duty one for the block heater.

How is the fuel pressure?
 

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Unplug the fuel heater. It could be shorting. Check the the pcm fuse too.

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Agreed. if the fuel heater shorts out it will blow the pcm fuse causing a no fuel no start
 

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But if it blows the fuse you won't get any warning lights that come from the PCM.

But I have heard it it being intermittent as far as shorting and then clearing without blowing the fuse. But that is usually only when going down the road in a running truck.
 
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