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amos moses
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi just did studs egr delete oil cooler rebuild. Truck won't start! Tried to start it for like 20-40 times. The dummy screen says tbc fault! Please help.
 

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The Unseen Mod
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4,126 Posts
Well its not gonna start right away dude its got air in the whole system. The whole system has to get primed again. Make sure ur batterys are at full power, and just crank and hold it, also once you get it running you gotta work the air out, drive the piss out of it Ford does 12 WOT runs, and keep driving it at least 50-100 miles is safest.


This is after its been started like 4 times already still takes forever gotta work the air out.
 

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amos moses
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks rescuef250. ill have to giver another go later on when i get outta work.
 

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amos moses
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Tried starting the truck 10-15 more times last night. 25-30 sec cranks and some starter cooldown time inbetween. Only thing I noticed was it seems the truck is shaking more and more each time I try to fire it again.(although that could just be me thinking she's gonna start) any ideas anybody?
 

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it's an 02 05 08
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930 Posts
chech and be sure everything is plugged in, ipr harness,the ficm harness,then put it on a scanner and see if its building icp pressure
 

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amos moses
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
waiting on a scanner probably monday night! everything is hooked up i am positive! i double checked and then 2 of my buddies double checked aswell!
i dunno getting frustrated!
 

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amos moses
Joined
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
i also updated the hpop fitting while the truck was apart too. dont know if this is whats causing my speculated oil pressure problem?
 

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amos moses
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Cranked the piss outa the truck yesterday! She just won't fire! What should I look for on the scanner?
 

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Registered
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66 Posts
Like turbodiesel said, put it on a scanner and see if its building icp pressure...actually there is a list of items to check with a scanner for a no-start condition, I will look for it. I just did the studs, egr delete, and oil cooler to mine and it took five 30 second cranks with about 2 mins of starter rest in between to get mine started the first time...
 

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amos moses
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
thanks dbm thatd be great! ive cranked her prolly 40 times 30 sec each still nothing ima try the scanner tonight!
 

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Registered
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66 Posts
This info is from m-chan68 on the org...its good stuff!!

you need to install a scan tool that can read live data, and pull up the following information listed below:

FICM_L: should read 11.0 to 12.0 volts at key-on/engine-off and remain steady while you crank the engine.

FICM_M: should read 47.5 to 48.0 volts at key-on/engine-off and remain steady while you crank the engine.

FICM_V: should read 11.0 to 12.0 volts at key-on/engine-off and remain steady while you crank the engine.

ICP V: should read 0.18 to 0.25 volts at key-on/engine-off and climb to minimum 0.8 volts while you crank the engine.

ICP: should read 0 psi at key-on/engine-off and climb to minimum 500 psi while you crank the engine over.

IPR Duty Cycle: should read 14.84% at key-on/engine-off and climb to around 50% as you crank the engine over.

FICM_SYNC: should read "NO" at key-on/engine-off and change to "YES" when you crank the engine over.

SYNC: should read "NO" at key-on/engine-off and change to "YES" when you crank the engine over.

V_PWR: should indicate around 12 volts at key-on/engine-off and drop to no lower than 9.5 volts while cranking the engine over.

RPM: should indicate around 175 to 200 as you crank the engine over. Any slower, and it's not cranking fast enough.

Fuel pressure spec is 56 psi, and no lower than 45 psi under load. This can be measured by connecting a fuel pressure gauge to the secondary fuel filter housing port that requires a 6mm allen key to remove.

EVERYTHING I've listed above, is what is needed to achieve a 6.0L engine that starts. You now need to find out which of the above is missing.
 

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amos moses
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
checked the icp voltage .25 with key on and went above 2.0 volts while cranking. The scanner i borrowed only went up to 2001 so i gotta see if i can find a usable scanner tomorrow. also i guess the starter finally died after last night so i replaced that today also.
 

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Registered
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8 Posts
i read one time that someone was close to empty in there gas tank and the whole system couldnt prime its self, why dont you try putting more gas in if your low.
 

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Registered
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611 Posts
When I replaced my stock injectors in my 7.3 to hybrids my fuel pump went bad on me while i was cranking on it and i tried everything then while i was sitting in the truck i relized the fuel pump wasnt running anytime the key was on...i check voltage etc at the pump and she was dead...fyi..check fuel pressure.
 

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amos moses
Joined
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I got fuel! Pumps running also cracked the fuel bowl
cap and turned the key on!(what a mess lol) I can't find anyne with a scanner to read my truck. I might just buy the auto enginuity software. I dunno I am outta ideas.
 

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m-chan68
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116 Posts
So far, everything you've described SHOULD lead to your engine starting. The only things you've left out so far, are FICM_M, FICM_SYNC and SYNC. If these three data fall within range, that leaves out injector(s). At that point, you would need to run what's called an injector buzz self-test. You need to pay attention to the "buzzing". You should hear all eight buzz simultaneously, followed by the clicking of each injector individually, beginning with cylinder #1 and following in cylinder NUMERICAL order (NOT engine firing order) 'till cylinder #8. This cycle should repeat two more times (for a total of three cycles). The injector(s) NOT clicking would be the faulty injector(s).
 

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amos moses
Joined
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
M-chan68 I believe all of the injectors are fine! They buzz and click as they always have! My biggest concern is before the headgaskets and other stuff my truck ran perfect only just pressurized the coolan system over 10psi of boost. So I just don't get what could have went wrong. Is it possible I fried my ipr or ficm from jumping the truck or battery cable removal/installation?
 

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Going Crazy
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1,533 Posts
I know everyone is against it but if it were my truck i would give it a small huff of ether and see if it started.... a little isnt gunna kill it, just be sure to crank while doing it..... that way if it is just air in the fuel or oil it will work it out really fast... but like i said everyone on here seems to be against ether lol
 

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amos moses
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I tried silicone spray over the weekend it didn't do sh*t
 
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