Well its not gonna start right away dude its got air in the whole system. The whole system has to get primed again. Make sure ur batterys are at full power, and just crank and hold it, also once you get it running you gotta work the air out, drive the piss out of it Ford does 12 WOT runs, and keep driving it at least 50-100 miles is safest.
This is after its been started like 4 times already still takes forever gotta work the air out.
Tried starting the truck 10-15 more times last night. 25-30 sec cranks and some starter cooldown time inbetween. Only thing I noticed was it seems the truck is shaking more and more each time I try to fire it again.(although that could just be me thinking she's gonna start) any ideas anybody?
Like turbodiesel said, put it on a scanner and see if its building icp pressure...actually there is a list of items to check with a scanner for a no-start condition, I will look for it. I just did the studs, egr delete, and oil cooler to mine and it took five 30 second cranks with about 2 mins of starter rest in between to get mine started the first time...
This info is from m-chan68 on the org...its good stuff!!
you need to install a scan tool that can read live data, and pull up the following information listed below:
FICM_L: should read 11.0 to 12.0 volts at key-on/engine-off and remain steady while you crank the engine.
FICM_M: should read 47.5 to 48.0 volts at key-on/engine-off and remain steady while you crank the engine.
FICM_V: should read 11.0 to 12.0 volts at key-on/engine-off and remain steady while you crank the engine.
ICP V: should read 0.18 to 0.25 volts at key-on/engine-off and climb to minimum 0.8 volts while you crank the engine.
ICP: should read 0 psi at key-on/engine-off and climb to minimum 500 psi while you crank the engine over.
IPR Duty Cycle: should read 14.84% at key-on/engine-off and climb to around 50% as you crank the engine over.
FICM_SYNC: should read "NO" at key-on/engine-off and change to "YES" when you crank the engine over.
SYNC: should read "NO" at key-on/engine-off and change to "YES" when you crank the engine over.
V_PWR: should indicate around 12 volts at key-on/engine-off and drop to no lower than 9.5 volts while cranking the engine over.
RPM: should indicate around 175 to 200 as you crank the engine over. Any slower, and it's not cranking fast enough.
Fuel pressure spec is 56 psi, and no lower than 45 psi under load. This can be measured by connecting a fuel pressure gauge to the secondary fuel filter housing port that requires a 6mm allen key to remove.
EVERYTHING I've listed above, is what is needed to achieve a 6.0L engine that starts. You now need to find out which of the above is missing.
checked the icp voltage .25 with key on and went above 2.0 volts while cranking. The scanner i borrowed only went up to 2001 so i gotta see if i can find a usable scanner tomorrow. also i guess the starter finally died after last night so i replaced that today also.
When I replaced my stock injectors in my 7.3 to hybrids my fuel pump went bad on me while i was cranking on it and i tried everything then while i was sitting in the truck i relized the fuel pump wasnt running anytime the key was on...i check voltage etc at the pump and she was dead...fyi..check fuel pressure.
I got fuel! Pumps running also cracked the fuel bowl
cap and turned the key on!(what a mess lol) I can't find anyne with a scanner to read my truck. I might just buy the auto enginuity software. I dunno I am outta ideas.
So far, everything you've described SHOULD lead to your engine starting. The only things you've left out so far, are FICM_M, FICM_SYNC and SYNC. If these three data fall within range, that leaves out injector(s). At that point, you would need to run what's called an injector buzz self-test. You need to pay attention to the "buzzing". You should hear all eight buzz simultaneously, followed by the clicking of each injector individually, beginning with cylinder #1 and following in cylinder NUMERICAL order (NOT engine firing order) 'till cylinder #8. This cycle should repeat two more times (for a total of three cycles). The injector(s) NOT clicking would be the faulty injector(s).
M-chan68 I believe all of the injectors are fine! They buzz and click as they always have! My biggest concern is before the headgaskets and other stuff my truck ran perfect only just pressurized the coolan system over 10psi of boost. So I just don't get what could have went wrong. Is it possible I fried my ipr or ficm from jumping the truck or battery cable removal/installation?
I know everyone is against it but if it were my truck i would give it a small huff of ether and see if it started.... a little isnt gunna kill it, just be sure to crank while doing it..... that way if it is just air in the fuel or oil it will work it out really fast... but like i said everyone on here seems to be against ether lol
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