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Discussion Starter #1
Long story short, the truck died on me on the highway. Once towed home the valve cover gaskets were discovered to be toast. The two on the passenger side were totally burnt and one on the driver side was melted pretty good and the the just one side was melted. Changed those and glow plugs. Still would not start. Replaced fuel filter, icp, ipr, CPS, and hoop. Still will crank but will not start.
Just got a scanner today and bought the torque pro app.
HPOP reading was 7.4 psi and IPR cycle was 14.7%.
I am new at working on these and I'm at a loss at what to do now. Can anybody help PLEASE!!!
 

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Can the Torque pro app initiate a buzz test of the injectors? If not I would recommend trying FORScan. What scanner/adapter did you get to interface with Torque pro? Anyway... once you can initiate a buzz test you'll be able to determine if the injectors are in fact working. If they are... great... if they aren't then the IDM is likely not functional.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #4
As far as I know torque app does NOT have the capability to do a buzz test. I got the BAFX wifi scanner. Seems to work okay. If the hpop isn't building pressure that shouldn't have anything to do with the IDM right? I have another one just didn't think that would be the issue.
 

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How long have you been cranking it? If all the oil drained out of the hpop reservoir and the oil rails in the heads, it will take quite a while to replenish that

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I cranked on it till the batteries died recharged them and did it again... Is there a way to purge the system to make this a somewhat easier task? This truck has been down over a month now. I need to get up and running asap!

Can any one tell me what I need to buy to be able to deadhead the oil lines? I cant see spending $100+ on a gauge set-up.
 

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The BAFX adapter you purchased can be used with FORScan. FORScan does have the ability to run the buzz test. You might try it. I don't know much about Torque Pro, but FORScan is capable of saving data. Capture the ICP, IPR, and RPM data. I would be watching the ICP closely as this is your injection oil pressure.
 

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I always take a plug out of the oil rails (each rail has 4 ports, one taken by the icp on the diver side) and jump the starter solenoid with key off so im not trying to run the electronics or fire the injectors. I crank in 15 second bursts until i see oil about to come out of the ports on each side. Close it up, and its not too much cranking after that.

Be wary about running your batts dead, that very well can and will weaken your injectors and idm, among other things.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay I have out pressure now. Up to 1200+ psi. But it still will not start. Any other ideas? I tried an IDM i know worked. Tried another PCM. Still only turns over and will not fire. This is killing me now. I need to get it running it's been over a month now.

Does anybody know any apps that work on wifi that I can do a buzz test with? Would doing a buzz test even matter at this point? I'm kind of just shooting in the dark at this point.
 

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Does the RPM gauge jump up while cranking? If it doesn't then your CPS is not working.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, the tach moves. I changed the CPS. The IPR, ICP, HPOP, and valve cover gaskets are all new.
 

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Fuel pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Was 50 psi at the shrader valve
 

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Cold climate?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm in north east oklahoma. Not super cold.
 

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Will it even try to start or just cranks?
 

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Try jumping it, even slightly low batteries will give these things trouble from my experience.

I assume you replaced the VC gasket pigtails too?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It will only crank. The batteries are brand new. Just put them in yesterday. Bought a new wire harness from ford so the VC plugs are new as well.
 

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I don't like to assume, so did you check all your fuses and verify continuity thru them?
 

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Hmmm, good fuel pressure and hpop pressure, new harness and vc gaskets, tach movement... I'm down to injector and compression testing. Buzz test if possible to see if injector control is there and that they are functioning. Maybe try jumping it still for the hell of it, or do some voltage drop tests.
 
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