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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I just bought a 97 obs last week and have been checking it out over the past week. I drove it to work a few days(10 min drive one way) and it was lacking power until 2500 rpm or so, though it didn't really seem to come until I was in 3rd or 4th gear and 2500+ rpm.

Anyways, after driving it to work for the third day and back home, I went and fired it up after it sat for an hour and gave it some throttle but it was slow to rev and started to shutter and blow white smoke around 2500rpm.

When I first got the truck it got new batteries, new oil and filter, new air filter, new fuel filter and cleaned the screen between the bowl and regulator and cleaned the bowl out.

Since the problem started, I have replaced all rubber fuel lines in the valley, removed and cleaned fuel tanks, checked fuel pressure(40-60psi while problem is occurring and about 40 at idle), checked for exhaust and boost leaks(none), shimmed all armatures and solenoids(had less than .002" clearance), unplugged each injector and all cylinders are contributing(I did this at idle and with throttle being held while shuttering was occurring), compression tested all cylinders(340-350 all 8), installed egt and boost(60psi) gauges, no boost showing so I used a vacuum/pressure gauge with higher resolution and I am getting 1lb of boost that's slow to build at 2000+ rpm. Considering white smoke, the fuel is there but not enough air with the low boost. Checked turbo for play in and out(none), side to side it moves about 1mm or so. I spin it and it seems to spin fine but maybe too much drag? Also, if I even slightly put sideways pressure on the turbo shaft it feels sticky while turning.

I have removed and disassembled the turbo and I'm trying to decide what to do next.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'm going to order KC Turbos balanced assembly since the compressor wheel had a bent fin and I want quality bearings and bolts. I am waiting on an adapter to hook a gauge up to my hpop system to see if that's an issue but like I said all cylinders are contributing and I have white smoke so fuel is there. No fuel in coolant. No oil in fuel. No hpop leaks from tops of injectors. I have a maxidas ds708 scanner but it doesn't communicate for some reason so I cant pull any data. No CEL/MIL. I hope I'm not wasting money on the turbo.
 

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Yes, fuel is there, but white smoke when running is not generally good as it could be an injector problem (stuck open, etc.). Cheers!
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, fuel is there, but white smoke when running is not generally good as it could be an injector problem (stuck open, etc.). Cheers!
Well if after I rebuild and reinstall the turbo it still has the issue, I'll be looking in to injectors. I sure hope not. It doesn't really smoke at idle only once it gets up past 2000 rpm when boost should be present.
 

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I have a maxidas ds708 scanner but it doesn't communicate for some reason so I cant pull any data. No CEL/MIL.
Run of the mill box store scanners and even a great number of the higher end scanners can't touch these trucks. Ford used the "heavy duty diesel" protocol for communication. Check out FORScan (forscan.org) and a suitable adapter. I have an OBDLink EX usb adapter (should you wish to use a computer to collect data), or take a look at either a BAFX or OBDLink unit. Both BAFX/OBDLink have a bluetooth/Wifi units (there are a few folks around here that recommend them) that will would work with a smart phone. And please post about the turbo! I've been looking at the KC balanced assembly along with their 1.0AR turbine snail as an upgrade for my truck as well. I'd like to hear what you think of it.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I'm keeping the stock 1.15 A/R because I've already spent too much lol but I'll for sure give my opinion, though idk how much insight I can provide being that I never really got to learn how the stock one feels when working correctly. Also, I ordered the BAFX last night.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Soooo... I may have accidentally stumbled upon something. I got my BAFX and downloaded FORScan today. I ran a buzz test and was hearing 2 weak injectors, but then I looked closer and realized I had #5 and #7 unplugged(from when I removed the turbo). So when 5 and 7 were being activated it was activating cylinders on bank 2... so I'm thinking I've got a partial short in harness/injector driver module? It's cold and late and I've been dealing with septic problems today but I'll gather more information tomorrow.
 

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Maybe... The buzz test should activate the injectors in 1, 2, 3.... order. Hopefully someone will confirm. Sounds like you are on the right path.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah it should be all 8 then 1-8 in order. When it got to 5 and 7 it was buzzing weakly on the driver's side, not sure which cylinders though. I'll find out more tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If I could get someone to run a buzz test on their truck with one pair of injectors unplugged and see if the same thing happens that'd be cool...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No shorts in harness, clean dry plugs... no error when running buzz test even with all injectors unplugged which I find strange. I need someone else to please try the buzz test with one or more VC plugs disconnected and see if they get faint buzzes on other injectors when the disconnected ones should be buzzing. Going to polish the turbo in the meantime. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
203140
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So that's normal apparently and points to an open injector circuit. Now I gotta get my harness taped back up and reseal the IDM and proceed with the KC turbo balanced assembly.
 

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As for stock turbo... On my 97 I run 2 to 3 or so lb of boost running on level highway. Slight hills will kick it up to 5 to 7 lbs. Foot in it when unloaded I can get up to 12ish, usually around 10 or 11psi. Heavy load and I run around 5 to 7 psi boost on level and 11 to 14 climbing hills. The stock turbo is not that efficient in my opinion.

Well I'm going the balanced assembly route and this is based on my other discussion. Unless you think I'm heading the wrong way in blaming the turbo?
I don't think you are completed off in left field... But, I would check closely for any exhaust leaks (which I know you have) from the headers up to the turbo. If the turbo is "sticking" as you describe in your first or second post then a balanced assembly is probably the way to go. I'm a little puzzled by the white smoke... usually with no/low boost is black (mine blows black before the turbo winds up), while white smoke usually points to unburned fuel. On the old IDIs white smoke usually was a sign of a poorly timed injection pump or leaking injectors. Have you had the injectors tested?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
No I haven't had the injectors tested. I checked as best as I could for exhaust leaks and didn't notice anything, I'll pressurize the manifolds and up pipes with the turbo out of my way and check again for leaks. But injectors are next on my list if the problem still exists after turbo install.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sure enough I have a leak on both sides on the turbo manifold collector piece where the up pipes mate. It was leaking on the bottom of the flange on both sides where the turbo was blocking me from seeing the bubbles. Decided to go ahead and pull the transmission out for easier access to everything and so I can pressure wash the transmission while it's out. Yippee... slave cylinder off, shifter off, harness off, driveshaft off. Will hit it hard tomorrow after work and see what's up. Now to figure out what to order regarding the up pipes. Already ordered the balanced assembly earlier today after ruling out the IDM issue.
 

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IMHO, if you have the tranny out, you might consider putting the bellowed uppipes on and get rid of the problematic donut gaskets. Cheers!
 

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Yeah... I thought you might have a leak ;). Of course pulling the turbo off could have sprung it worse. You must have quite a leak to not get any boost though. I had my drive side manifold lose a bolt and was leaking pretty good (nice streak of soot down the engine block), but I could still get 10+ psi of boost. Bellowed up pipes and a new collector (to mate with the up pipes) would solve it for good. I haven't managed to get that far yet. Either way the turbo upgrade is a good investment... One that I hope to be making shortly.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
I'm going the cheap route for now, want to get quality bellows when I do them. And as far as I can tell the leaks aren't really that bad. I'll just fix what I find as I go. Ill check the manifold-to-head gaskets better with the tranny out. Just ordered a cheaper stock up pipe kit since I'll probably need/break bolts and need gaskets and whatnot. And I went ahead and ordered the 3" diamond eye down pipe. Gonna ebpv delete the cheap way by removing the valve and putting the freeze plug and snap ring, 1/4"NPT plug in the pedestal.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Pulling the tranny was easier than pulling the up pipes and down pipe even with the tranny out of the way! Haha!
203147
 
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