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Learning from PSN
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Discussion Starter #1
While sorting out the brake problem I noticed a oil leak. After a lot of looking I figured it out. The inspection shield on the bottom of the transmission is the culprit. There is a lip at the top of the shield near the crank area of the oil pan. Some how the shield rubbed a hole in the oil pan. Anyone ever heard of this? I plan on getting a new clutch and flywheel plus a turbo back exhaust system for the truck. Would now be the time to do this? I'm thinking I need to raise the motor up to get the pan off ,so does all this need to come off any way? I was thinking about a Diamond Eye exhaust but I'm not sure what clutch to use. Were is the best place to buy these? Would like to get this stuff from a sponsor if I can.
 

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basically you have to pull the motor to drop the pan, some members have said they've done it without pulling the motor but I think it takes more time than just yanking the motor. One member cut the crossmember out and welded it back in but it's not a popular option and you still need to do a clutch. btw are you sure about the leak? the valley of the motor drains into the flywheel area then out the inspection cover.
 

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Learning from PSN
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Discussion Starter #3
I'm sure were the leak is coming from. I cleaned the bottom of the motor real good and started the motor and let it run until I seen were the leak was. I had the inspection cover off because I thought it was the oil pan gasket leaking. With the cover on I woulld not have found it. It was a shiny spot that caught my eye with a light. Cutting the cross member is not a option ,so I take it you are saying the motor has to be yanked all the way out? I was hoping that if I disconnected the exhuast and dropped out the trans I could raise it up enough to get it out.
 

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Everyone says you have to pull the motor, pan has to drop too far tobe able to get it out
 

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Learning from PSN
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Discussion Starter #5
How difficult is it to pull? Is this something that someone with some mechanical ability can do? Or is this best left to the trained professionals?
 

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Smart A$$
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i am kind of a ritard and i pulled my motor/trans/transfer case. if you send me your email i could send you pics and tell you how i did it- take pics, rip sh!t out, take pics, rip sh!t out. i just picked up my motor from the engine builder yesterday and now everything has to go back together, i guess.
 

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How difficult is it to pull? Is this something that someone with some mechanical ability can do? Or is this best left to the trained professionals?
IDK, for me pulling a motor isn't that big of a deal, you start unhooking stuff that doesn't come with the motor, my self I usually try to do as much under the truck as possible first motor mounts(assuming it wont move with the bolts pulled), flywheel, exh etc before I start draining fluids then I kind of work my way up looking for stuff that needs to be disconnected. generally speaking you leave the a/c and p/s systems intact and just move components out of the way. also if you leave the trans in make sure its supported before you disconnect the motor.
i am kind of a ritard and i pulled my motor/trans/transfer case. if you send me your email i could send you pics and tell you how i did it- take pics, rip sh!t out, take pics, rip sh!t out. i just picked up my motor from the engine builder yesterday and now everything has to go back together, i guess.
well, it doesn't have to go back together- I'll take the motor off yours hands:poke:
 

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The inspection cover rubbing a hole in the oil pan was a problem on the early Powerstrokes with 5-speeds. TSB 95-14-12 describes the problem and fix. My 1994 had it. My solution (it only leaked with the engine running) was to remove the paint from the area and use brake cleaner to get any oil off. I then used some JB Weld putty to fill the little slice of a hole. After 3 coats of POR-15 it was done. Never had another problem with it. I did get the updated inspection cover for it. If I ever had the engine out, I would have replaced the pan then. Cheers!
 

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Learning from PSN
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Discussion Starter #9
I thought about using JB weld but it looks like it has a crack about 2 -3 inch's long coming from it . Not sure if it is a surface rub or crack. The TSB says it is a 10 hr job, I guess I better plan double that. Maybe I will try the JB weld just to see if it works. Still need a clutch and want a new exhaust. Any ideas on a sponsor of the site here to call? All the help I've been getting here I want to give back by getting these items from a sponsor.
 

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not sure on the sponsor- someone will tho'. the jb weld would be worth a shot-- especially when you have the trans and flywheel out- worst case is you pull the motor after you pull the trans out.
 

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Smart A$$
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i would go with the jb weld for now until you are ready to pull your motor, it is a b!tch to pull it! i pulled the bumper, winch, entire front grill/headlights cluster-phuck, radiator and core support. i am not sure how it is going to go back together yet...
 

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Learning from PSN
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Discussion Starter #12
Well if it's that bad ,JB weld it is then. I don't really want to deal with all that right now.
 

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Demon Dually
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Definitely JB Weld it. It isn't worth all the hassle of pulling the engine over a minor oil leak that can be patched with JB Weld when you don't have anything else that needs to be fixed that requires pulling the engine.
 

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Learning from PSN
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Discussion Starter #14
I need to to get a clutch ordered and that's when I will try it. Still looking for ideas on who to call for a clutch. Would like to get it ordered and then start working on it. Where the leak is the trans and fly wheel has to come off to get to it.
 

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sounds like a plan
 

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Pull it out and be done with it.

Oh another thing, order the following parts before you pull the motor...... head studs, fuel fittings for the back of the head, injectors, big oil and GPs :evil

Billy T.
[email protected]
 

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Pulling the motor really isnt all that bad. Your don't need to pull the core support, but all the accessories, radiator, and water/coolant tanks were removed from mine including the water pump (that was just cause i couldnt get the fan itself off). But the turbo I left in place as i took the turbo off and on before with it in the truck and that was a major PITA. The best think to do to make it easier is to take the hood off the truck. Just disconnect a few vacum hoses, and pick it up, once the engine is up a bit and free you will have to spin it so the front is facing the drivers side fender and then its just up and out. Hope it helps.
matt z
 

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Learning from PSN
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Discussion Starter #18
Pull it out and be done with it.

Oh another thing, order the following parts before you pull the motor...... head studs, fuel fittings for the back of the head, injectors, big oil and GPs :evil

Billy T.
[email protected]
Yeah it would be nice to do all that ,but I'm what you might call underemployed right now. I still need a clutch and now is the time to do it. I'm thinking hard now about trying to pull the motor,just because if the JB weld comes off for some reason I'm worried that oil will be every where. Also running down the highway losing oil and toasting a motor. The fan and radiator was just off for cleaning when the oil cooler was replaced.
 

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I'd do the clutch and jb weld, then let it ride, you may want to make sure the pan isn't real thin right there and that you can't like put your finger through it type thing- other than that do the temp repair and let it ride.
 

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Learning from PSN
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Discussion Starter #20
Looking for a clutch now. I guess when I get the trans out I'll see how bad it is and go from there. At least I got more knowledge and hopefully some repair options.
 
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