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This is an awesome place to start.

you pimped out a stock turbo, and got nothing in return, those parts fix surge, not performance,

you cannot stack programming in a 7.3, last i knew.

k&n is known to dust engines, though if you gotta complete kit it might not be as bad, its the stock replacement filter thats bad.

the HPx and the FRx are debateable. the FRx will get eliminated if you do a rr, and the HPx its hit and miss on ppls trucks if it helps or not. some do, some dont.

edge programming doesnt attempt to tune the trans. the extra power the motor creates is not compensated in the trans, for instance increasing line pressure, changing shift points to make better use of the power, etc etc.

imo, the only things i would have done is the exhaust, MAYBE the ic, the bypass, and cuz your a ex, the dual alt.

here, read this, and go from there. some of the conversion stuff is geared towards a truck, i dont know if it will fit your ex.

when looking to upgrade your truck, its all done in steps. from the guy only wanting some basic things, to the guy just looking for a little more, to the guy wanting full blown power. this is how i personally would do it. this is not the order it needs to be done, as it can be mixed and matched in any order. this is just a general guide to get you started.

hutch and harpoon. always first, imo $50-150 the hutch and harpoon are optional. the hutch is recommended. even if you do nothing else to your truck, the hutch is recommended. this is it. Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page the reason being, is with the return coming into the tank right next to the fuel pickup, any air in the return line is then sucked right back up into the fuel line. air is bad for our heui injectors. the harpoon mod just lets you fill up the tank, 29 of 30 gallons of it, without having to stand there for 5 hours, pumping real slow to cram the last 4 gallons in. if your already in there doin the hutch mod, the harpoon will take about 2 mins.

intake and exhaust $200-1000 i say $1k cuz stacks are not a cheap option. intake, and exhaust pretty much need to be done before anything. the oem air box is known to not seal and dust a motor, and if you put a chip on it, a exhaust is almost a requirement to keep egts in check. 90% of ppl run a 4" turbo back. 5" if you want deeper sound. but 4" is more than enough.

guages/guage pod $300+ i say 300+ depending on how many and what kind he gets (think csipsd) autometer or isspro are stand outs here. 95% of ppl will get a egt, boost, and trans. those are the three main guages you will need. unless your like joe, he has, last i knew, like 15 guages in his cab.

chip $400-600 depending on where he gets it, read this. Chip comparison and discussion links. - PowerStrokeNation if you still have a question on chip, i will call bs on you read that thread

rr $250-500 can you DIY or have to buy one, do you delete the bowl now, or just the RR. your truck as what is called a dead head fuel system. fuel goes from the tank, through fuel pump, to fuel bowl, through filter, to heads. any air that makes it past the fuel bowl has no where to go, except through the injector. like i said earlier, this is bad. a regulated return allows any air that gets into the heads, to flow through the heads, back to the tank, where hopefully you have done the hutch mod already. this is one version of the RR. Driven Diesel 7.3L Regulated Return Kit if you are mechanically inclined, and a DIYer, i made my own for $250. there are many versions of this, many sponsers sell it. i know irate sells it, and its mostly hard line, as opposed to braided hose like the one i posted from strictly. he dont have pics up, but this is jakes site. Irate Diesel performance •Power Stroke Performance . i personally used a fuelab regulator, regular steel hydraulic fittings, and some parkerstore pushlok hose. there is some talk about whether or not fuel that is heated goin to the tank is bad, but can be fixed with a fuel cooler. thats more of a to each his own opinion thing at this point.

that sets the foundation and gets the required basics out of the way to then go farther.

studs/springs/pushrods $750-1200 these are things that are just cheap insurance for a guy with stage1 or 2 injectors, a requirement of some one goin for stage 3 injectors. studs will help keep from blowing a head gasket. ARP and H11 are the two main companies. springs most ppl just use comp 910's. push rods, pic a sponser, they can get them

hpop (high pressure oil pump). our motors use high pressure oil to push the fuel out of the injectors. here http://www.cat.com/cda/files/87775/7/pehp9526.pdf is a general overview of how our injection system works. another thread here, also with some good links is this one. How Does A HEUI injector REALLY work? - PowerStrokeNation it is very possible, depending on mileage, and how the truck was maintained before you got it, that just by putting on a new hpop(even a stock one) you could very well have what feels like a brand new truck. the two most common ones short of full on big oil, would be the srp1 Beans Diesel Performance - Stealth Stock Replacement HPOP (SRP1) (Powered by CubeCart) and the adrenaline PUMPS ORDERED TODAY WILL NOT BE SHIPPED UNTIL AT LEAST MAY 26th - 1994-2003 7.3L Dieselsite Adrenaline HPOP with the srp1 flowing a little more oil.

trans-depending on how far you want to go with your truck hp wise will determine this one. $750-4500 just a quality torque converter and valve body, or a BTS

the rest of the fuel system, upgraded fuel pump, anything you didnt do in the RR step. $250-?, what kidna pump did you choose, fuelab and aeromotive are stand outs, and what didnt you do in the RR step.

injectors $1000+ cores for reman stage 1's, to the skys the limit on some exotic high flowing competition only injectors
turbo $1400 on the 38r, a simple drop in replacement for stock, to the sky's the limit again on exotic twins and plumbing

to maintain durability and maybe gain some mpg, and your not looking for eye popping performance, just a little more git-up-n-go, just get you a set of stage 1's, maybe a set of 2's, (injectors). any sponser can get you injectors. some of the injector builders, or sponsers that sell them that stand out in my head are, beans diesel performance, swamps diesel, unlimited, and full force diesel, and rosewood. that is not in any particular order. any tuner can tune those injectors to be real happy with your stock turbo. if your just looking for a small increase, and dont want to have lots of power, dont let ppl talk you into spending $3k on a set of hybrids when a simple $1k stg1 will more than do what you want from your truck.

i said maintain durability, because anytime you turn up the hp, durability goes down. its just a simple fact. with the advances in tuning nowadays, the durability bar has been raised. these things are now living at higher power levels with out failures than even 1 year ago. if you talk to a tuner, thank him for that.

before you decide to make a purchase, call a sponser or three and ask his opinion. what he has, what he would do with your money, how he would spend it. there is not a bad sponser on here, and all are highly knowledegable. call, tap into that knowledge. there are not stupid questions. if you dont know, ask, they will help you. the only thing stupid is not asking that question you want to know the answer to.

you did not pick a cheap platform to build power on. you did however, pick a realiable as hell one. switch out to a full synthetic motor oil, such as shaeffers. change it often. these things dont last properly with dirty oil. clean oil is your friend. simple regular maintanence makes these things bullet-proof in stock form, and more durable in non-stock form. slack on maintenance and it will tell you.

there are also cosmetic things you can do to your truck. for instance, the mirrors that are standard on 02 and up trucks will bolt right up to our trucks. the tow mirrors. even the ones on a 08. you will have to change the plug on the truck, and if your goin to heat and power and turn from non heated/power/turn you will need to change some wiring in the door, and run some new wires to control the new functions on your mirrors.

the 05-07 front end will bolt up. grille, header panel, headlights, bumper and upper and lower covers. if you go complete like that, you will also need the bumper brackets.

if you just like the harley headlights, you can tub out your existing header panel to make the new headlights fit, or just buy a 05-07 header panel and it will bolt right up and the head lights will fit right in. it needs to be noted that if goin to the newer headlights, you will need the pigtail adapter, or cut and create your own to make the new light work.

there are mix and match options for front end conversions all over ebay
Although there are certain sponsors mentioned in this post, they are there for reference. And while they make outstanding products, so do other sponsors. Do some research and pick one or more that you like doing business with. Or, spread it around and do business with them all.

Myself, personally, on tuner choice, you gotta go with Tony.
J/K, in my opinion, if you have one in driving distance, go with that one. If not, talk to them all and go with the one you feel the best about. There is no wrong or bad choice with the custom tuners that are sponsors here.
__________________
early 99, f250, 7.3, afe big boost, 4" turbo bak, autometer cobalt boost/pyro/trans, zoodad, pmt2, diy RR, cooling mist stg 3 mpg, gearhead tunes, 6.0 cooler, stupid long want to do list,
 

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I think there should be more on turbo's. If you don't mind I would like to add to this. Hopefully I get it all right.

Ported shroud compressor housing made by ats- This does not give you any more flow or hp improvement. It is for turbo flutter. If you have a chip, exhaust, and intake, you may experience turbo flutter/stall while under a load. This would help that if you don't plan on going any bigger in the future. For more info check here- ATS Ported Shroud Compressor Housing - PowerStrokeNation

Wicked wheel- It works basically the same as an ats housing, just cheaper. Look here for more- Wicked Wheel - PowerStrokeNation

Van turbo- this is a stock turbo from a van. Its better than the superduty turbo but only a bit. Its still a good upgrade. van turbo - PowerStrokeNation

If you plan on going with bigger injectors you will want to decide how big. The 38r or precision drop in are good choices for power levels from stock to 500 or so horse power. They are drop in replacements for the stock turbo. There is a thread comparing the two. Elites Drop In vs GTP38R - PowerStrokeNation

The turbos talked about prior are for 99.5-03 only. (Unless you converted to a 99.5-03 induction system) if you are an obs or e99 you will want to look into a d66. That's about the only option other than a t4 or t4i style turbo. (We'll get to that). You wont want a wicked wheel for these. The e99 stock wheel is a wicked wheel.


Another good choice when going to bigger is an H2E, QSSB, or GQSSB. They are good turbos for up to somewhere around 550hp. They are not drop in replacements though. They will require new turbo mounts. Carson stauffer, hypermax, irate diesel performance, and a couple others make turbo mount kits for these turbos. You will need to talk to your performance supplier to find out what turbine housing flange it has. Ex. T4 or T4i. Some threads on these are- 38R or H2E? - PowerStrokeNation Anyone got a QSSB? - PowerStrokeNation QSSB or GQSSB? - PowerStrokeNation

For more than 550hp youll look into other T4 style turbos. Some turbos like the h2e can be modified to flow more or less to match your needs. The s300 and s400 series turbos are like that. You will just need to research them. Also you can get gt42 and gt45 turbos. They actually have 4 number designations such as s366, gt4294, gt4202. The numbers designate the compressor and turbine wheel sizes. There are tons of options and as posted above, the sky is the limit. You'll just need to research.

After you pick the turbo you'll need to pick turbine housing sizes. Ex. .98, 1.15, 1.28, etc. Just research this. Its too complicated.



Arisely, if you like it keep it. If not delete it. I wont care.
 

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when looking to upgrade your truck, its all done in steps. from the guy only wanting some basic things, to the guy just looking for a little more, to the guy wanting full blown power. this is how i personally would do it. this is not the order it needs to be done, as it can be mixed and matched in any order. this is just a general guide to get you started.

hutch and harpoon. always first, imo $50-150 the hutch and harpoon are optional. the hutch is recommended. even if you do nothing else to your truck, the hutch is recommended. this is it. Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page the reason being, is with the return coming into the tank right next to the fuel pickup, any air in the return line is then sucked right back up into the fuel line. air is bad for our heui injectors. the harpoon mod just lets you fill up the tank, 29 of 30 gallons of it, without having to stand there for 5 hours, pumping real slow to cram the last 4 gallons in. if your already in there doin the hutch mod, the harpoon will take about 2 mins.

intake and exhaust $200-1000 i say $1k cuz stacks are not a cheap option. intake, and exhaust pretty much need to be done before anything. the oem air box is known to not seal and dust a motor, and if you put a chip on it, a exhaust is almost a requirement to keep egts in check. 90% of ppl run a 4" turbo back. 5" if you want deeper sound. but 4" is more than enough.

guages/guage pod $300+ i say 300+ depending on how many and what kind he gets (think csipsd) autometer or isspro are stand outs here. 95% of ppl will get a egt, boost, and trans. those are the three main guages you will need. unless your like joe, he has, last i knew, like 15 guages in his cab.

chip $400-600 depending on where he gets it, read this. Chip comparison and discussion links. - PowerStrokeNation if you still have a question on chip, i will call bs on you read that thread

rr $250-500 can you DIY or have to buy one, do you delete the bowl now, or just the RR. your truck as what is called a dead head fuel system. fuel goes from the tank, through fuel pump, to fuel bowl, through filter, to heads. any air that makes it past the fuel bowl has no where to go, except through the injector. like i said earlier, this is bad. a regulated return allows any air that gets into the heads, to flow through the heads, back to the tank, where hopefully you have done the hutch mod already. this is one version of the RR. Driven Diesel 7.3L Regulated Return Kit if you are mechanically inclined, and a DIYer, i made my own for $250. there are many versions of this, many sponsers sell it. i know irate sells it, and its mostly hard line, as opposed to braided hose like the one i posted from strictly. he dont have pics up, but this is jakes site. Irate Diesel performance •Power Stroke Performance . i personally used a fuelab regulator, regular steel hydraulic fittings, and some parkerstore pushlok hose. there is some talk about whether or not fuel that is heated goin to the tank is bad, but can be fixed with a fuel cooler. thats more of a to each his own opinion thing at this point.

that sets the foundation and gets the required basics out of the way to then go farther.

studs/springs/pushrods $750-1200 these are things that are just cheap insurance for a guy with stage1 or 2 injectors, a requirement of some one goin for stage 3 injectors. studs will help keep from blowing a head gasket. ARP and H11 are the two main companies. springs most ppl just use comp 910's. push rods, pic a sponser, they can get them

hpop (high pressure oil pump). our motors use high pressure oil to push the fuel out of the injectors. here http://www.cat.com/cda/files/87775/7/pehp9526.pdf is a general overview of how our injection system works. another thread here, also with some good links is this one. How Does A HEUI injector REALLY work? - PowerStrokeNation it is very possible, depending on mileage, and how the truck was maintained before you got it, that just by putting on a new hpop(even a stock one) you could very well have what feels like a brand new truck. the two most common ones short of full on big oil, would be the srp1 Beans Diesel Performance - Stealth Stock Replacement HPOP (SRP1) (Powered by CubeCart) and the adrenaline PUMPS ORDERED TODAY WILL NOT BE SHIPPED UNTIL AT LEAST MAY 26th - 1994-2003 7.3L Dieselsite Adrenaline HPOP with the srp1 flowing a little more oil.

trans-depending on how far you want to go with your truck hp wise will determine this one. $750-4500 just a quality torque converter and valve body, or a BTS

the rest of the fuel system, upgraded fuel pump, anything you didnt do in the RR step. $250-?, what kidna pump did you choose, fuelab and aeromotive are stand outs, and what didnt you do in the RR step.

injectors $1000+ cores for reman stage 1's, to the skys the limit on some exotic high flowing competition only injectors

turbo $1400 on the 38r, a simple drop in replacement for stock, to the sky's the limit again on exotic twins and plumbing

to maintain durability and maybe gain some mpg, and your not looking for eye popping performance, just a little more git-up-n-go, just get you a set of stage 1's, maybe a set of 2's, (injectors). any sponser can get you injectors. some of the injector builders, or sponsers that sell them that stand out in my head are, beans diesel performance, swamps diesel, unlimited, and full force diesel, and rosewood. that is not in any particular order. any tuner can tune those injectors to be real happy with your stock turbo. if your just looking for a small increase, and dont want to have lots of power, dont let ppl talk you into spending $3k on a set of hybrids when a simple $1k stg1 will more than do what you want from your truck.

i said maintain durability, because anytime you turn up the hp, durability goes down. its just a simple fact. with the advances in tuning nowadays, the durability bar has been raised. these things are now living at higher power levels with out failures than even 1 year ago. if you talk to a tuner, thank him for that.

before you decide to make a purchase, call a sponser or three and ask his opinion. what he has, what he would do with your money, how he would spend it. there is not a bad sponser on here, and all are highly knowledegable. call, tap into that knowledge. there are not stupid questions. if you dont know, ask, they will help you. the only thing stupid is not asking that question you want to know the answer to.

you did not pick a cheap platform to build power on. you did however, pick a realiable as hell one. switch out to a full synthetic motor oil, such as shaeffers. change it often. these things dont last properly with dirty oil. clean oil is your friend. simple regular maintanence makes these things bullet-proof in stock form, and more durable in non-stock form. slack on maintenance and it will tell you.

there are also cosmetic things you can do to your truck. for instance, the mirrors that are standard on 02 and up trucks will bolt right up to our trucks. the tow mirrors. even the ones on a 08. you will have to change the plug on the truck, and if your goin to heat and power and turn from non heated/power/turn you will need to change some wiring in the door, and run some new wires to control the new functions on your mirrors.

the 05-07 front end will bolt up. grille, header panel, headlights, bumper and upper and lower covers. if you go complete like that, you will also need the bumper brackets.

if you just like the harley headlights, you can tub out your existing header panel to make the new headlights fit, or just buy a 05-07 header panel and it will bolt right up and the head lights will fit right in. it needs to be noted that if goin to the newer headlights, you will need the pigtail adapter, or cut and create your own to make the new light work.

there are mix and match options for front end conversions all over ebay
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's all good, maybe it will save a bunch of repeating ourselves. I will be modifying this thread to show Tree Trimmer as the author of it, credit where credit is due.

Also will be leaving it open for additions. If you have something to add, please do. It will stay or be deleted by mine and a few other peoples decisions. I think this could be an awesome thread to give people some time proven starting places. Once you get past the basics and go looking for the real deal horsepower, you are completely on your own.
 

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When I first joined PSN this is basically I wanted to do ("Compiling Knowledge" thread I made but it never took off), and got crap for it, but hey better late than never! Looks really good, keep up with the good work guys! Maybe we can eventually make a one stop shop thread for aftermarket modifications.

As for me, time to read your guys's advice:popcorn:
 

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Even though some of it isn't entirely true.....

said:
edge programming doesnt attempt to tune the trans. the extra power the motor creates is not compensated in the trans, for instance increasing line pressure, changing shift points to make better use of the power, etc etc.
Wrong.

said:
your truck as what is called a dead head fuel system. fuel goes from the tank, through fuel pump, to fuel bowl, through filter, to heads. any air that makes it past the fuel bowl has no where to go, except through the injector.
Not entirely true. Even the Super Duty trucks have a regulated return from the factory. It just happens to return to the tank before the excess fuel has flowed through the heads. Oh, and just about every vehicle built since the mid-80's has a fuel pressure regulator in the fuel system somewhere so they're all technically already "regulated return".

said:
gain some mpg.........just get you a set of stage 1's, maybe a set of 2's, (injectors)
Probably not so much. While the single shot injectors operate more efficiently from an HPO standpoint, gaining MPG from them is a crap shoot at best. Unless you take steps to reduce the amount of power your truck requires to get to speed and maintain that speed, your fuel requirements will not change a whole lot. It takes a specific amount of fuel to make a specific amount of power. Sure, when the fuel is injected makes a little bit of difference, but it all really comes down to how much fuel your truck requires to move.
 

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i was always under the impression that edge didnt tune the trans, and the amount of failures due to ppl having a edge i thought backed that up.

thank you for correcting me. im not to thick headed to admit i was wrong. :D

yes, they all have a fpr, mine was set a 56psi from the factory. "your truck as what is called a dead head fuel system. fuel goes from the tank, through fuel pump, to fuel bowl, through filter, and either out the internal regulator or to heads. any air that makes it past the fuel bowl has no where to go, except through the injector.

that fix it enough for you?

as for the mpg, if you get singles, you 99% of the time get reburnt, 100% of the time you need reburnt, if coming from splits, as thats what the post is geared towards. ppl who just got a truck and go "what can i do to it." when you get reburnt, i.e. fresh new injectors, custom tuning to run them, mpg will go up. i never stated how much, as it 100% depends on the driver, it could only be .1 mpg. my buddy put swamps singles in his, 200/30 and a new chip. he gained about 1.2 mpg. we hand calculated it out over 5 individual tank fulls and took a average. this was about 2 months after he put them in to get the he he's and ha ha's out of his system. his truck was a 99 with 375k on it, and he ABUSEs the chit out of it. i feel sorry for the truck.

if you feel the need to correct more, by all means. this needs to be as accurate as possible, and if things need to be changed to do that, then that needs to be done. i simply compiled as much information as i could, from what i have learned first hand, and what i have learned from here, and granted, i might have made a few assumptions. (kicks own ass)
 

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all im running is a superchip in my 00 F350 Crewcab long bed and gettin 30 mpg!!
 

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all im running is a superchip in my 00 F350 Crewcab long bed and gettin 30 mpg!!
:hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe:
Your sig says you have a performance shop......... And you are pushing superchips....... claiming 30mpg? :hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe: Let me guess, you have 500hp with it too?
 

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me fink's sumbody needs go bak to widdle kiddy school, and re-wern how do maf. :D

30 mpg. LOL, there are ppl in the mpg section, having apile of money in their trucks focusing on nothing but mpg's, getting tops of 25-26.
 

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ill post a pic to prove it haters
 

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...... Wait a minute.... You're not going by the lie-o-meter in the truck are you? Geez.
 

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if thats the case, i can coast down hill at 75 mph, up in wisconsin, and the lie-o-meter in the truck said i was getting 65 mpg..... HA, beat that.

fill up your truck at the gas station, drive around for that tank, fill it up again, then take the total miles driven divided by the total gallons put in it.

say you drove 492 miles and put in 26.2 gallons. 492/26.2=18.79 mpg

to get your 30, you would need to be driving 500 miles and use 17 gallon of fuel. thats only half a tank to drive 500 miles. im sorry chief, but thats just to much to swallow there.
 

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Agreed!!! Why did we go buy the wife a Fusion to achieve these MPG numbers if I could of done it in my 4 ton monster???

By the way, great write up fellas.
 

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well im sorry that im a "newbie" i thought that with the chip's it improve the MPG? am i right
 
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