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Discussion Starter #1
The truck is actually close to stock, and it runs surprisingly well for having so much damage to the engine harness. But the glow plugs don't seem to work at all, so I've ordered 8 MotorCrafts. I was looking around at VCGs & UVCHs, and the prices of the aftermarkets make them tempting. But I don't want crappy parts on the truck, so should I pay up for MotorCraft, or is there a good brand that costs less?



After taking those pics, I washed the nest out from under the turbo. Then I got the one out of the air cleaner... I'm about to pull the interior.
 

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I prefer the OEM gaskets and UVCHs, but I have used aftermarket (Dorman gasket with integrated UVCHs) in a pinch with no issues. Having said that, the aftermarket units can have the wire order incorrect (so if you use those, you might want to check them before installation). Outermost pins (1 and 5) on each 5-wire connector go to glowplugs. Center pin (3) is common to the 2 injectors serviced by the UVCH. Pins 2 and 4 are for the injector that kind of corresponds to the pin position (forward pin, forward injector). Don't forget to check the GlowPlug Relay! Here are some tests:

For checking the injector/glowplug wiring: From each valvecover gasket connection's outermost pins (2 per connector) to ground you should get 0.1 to 2 ohms (indicates good plug and wiring). From each valvecover gasket connection's center pin to each immediately adjacent pin, you should get around 3 ohms (indicates good injector solenoid and wiring). You should not get any continuity from any of the outer pins to the 3 inner pins (indicates no shorts between injector and glowplug wiring). You should also get 0 to 1 ohms from each of the external harness connectors outer pins back to the Glowplug Relay's large terminal on the GP side (indicates good wiring from external connections back to the relay).

To check the glowplug relay (GPR), measure the voltage drop across the GPR's large terminals. While the GPR is active (up to 1.5 to 2 minutes after the key is turned to Wait-to-Start) put your meter leads on the large terminals (one lead on one large terminal and the other lead on the other large terminal). This measures how much voltage is being "lost" across the relay. A reading of 0.3V or more indicates a bad relay. Also, check the relay’s control wires (smaller wires) disconnected from the relay for battery voltage at the Red/Light Green striped wire and ground at the Purple/Orange striped wire (check both when the key is turned to Wait-to-Start).

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks. Is there a fuel additive that's recommended? OptiLube was the best for the K3500 6.5Lt I got rid of a few years ago because it helped protect the IP from ULSD wear, without affecting the optical sensor. Do these IPs suffer from ULSD? Neither tank level works, so IDK how much is in either, or how old any of it is. But I put a few ounces PowerService Supplement, & a few of PS Clear into each tank today. I've checked that the yellow handle on the filter housing moves, but I couldn't tell that anything happened. Is it supposed to dump fuel(water?) somewhere? Does this forum have a FAQ for these trucks?
 

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A lot of guys will run PowerService products. When I used an additive, I used Stanadyne Performance Formula. I liked it, but it just made fill-ups too expensive. The fuel drain (provided the little rubber hose from the canister is there and connected to the line) will drain at the termination on the front of the engine on the passenger side of the waterpump and crank pulleys. Many times one needs to crack open the filter lid to get it to drain. Not sure that this site has any technical FAQs, but check the section labeled "Library". Cheers!
 

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I’d also recommend the White Rogers (Stancor) Glow Plug Relay, much more robust and lasts way longer, fact I’ve never had one go bad in years. In Western Canada, 18months was max I’d get from stock one. Power Service or Stanadyne with Cetane improver are the additives use. I usually get my parts online from RiffRaff Diesel Performance as Clay’s prices are significantly less expensive then here in Canada. Motorcraft and other performance parts are top drawer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The library (which was harder to find than I expected) has some good articles. I was especially looking for a better door mirror, and I think I like the 03-06 GM towing mirror best. I may fabricate my own mounting system. I didn't read any of the e-fuel threads yet, but I may do that. Planned upgrades include: power heated signal telescoping door mirrors w/puddle & cornering lamps, dimming compass thermometer RV mirror, TPMS, USB power, as much black Energy poly as I can fit, wireless phone charger, reverse sensors & lights, double-DIN wireless AndroidAuto/CarPlay & rear camera, sliding rear window, mini bed crane, LED courtesy/tail/CHMSL, projector headlights, recall SCDS, power inverter, Fumoto oil drain, VentShades, StepShields, power adjustable pedals, external ATF & PSF filters, bigger ATF cooler (Hayden 687?), steering wheel with backlit radio buttons, inside grab handles, hood light (why doesn't an XLT have one?)...

Repairs include: rear brakes (mostly MotorCraft, the drums had never been removed), replacement dash, repair/replace bench seat, engine wiring insulation (or just new wires), fuel filter, oil change (all fluids), front hub maintenance (brakes?), washing the whole interior, K&N maintenance, Dorman VCGs, MotorCraft GPs, replacment t/g & bushings, new headliner, one of the front u-joints (not sure which yet), Cooper AT3s, cheap speakers... I'm really NOT liking the diamond plate, but I sort of need the tool box. Same for the bedliner - I hate it, but I don't know what's under it yet. I'm also torn about the little Aluminum steps, but I know I hate the red grill. And I'm considering removing & selling the front receiver, in favor of a winch bumper similar to my Bronco's.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I didn't realize how EASY the valve cover & glow plug job would be. The hardest part was just getting to the RHR outboard bolts. All the GPs came out with my 12V cordless impact. It was getting dark, and blowing the GP wells dry before unscrewing them got black oil on my hands, so I didn't take any pics of the process.



6 of the GPs were open-circuit. The other 2 are now spares. None of the harness connectors was burned, so I didn't use the supplied pigtails.

I've ordered the 4 breather O-rings.



Is it hard to get the air out after changing the fuel filter? Anything I should look for while I have it out? The oil level might be low... What oil should I be using in the Memphis climate - Rotella? 15W-40? What are the T4/T5/T6 flavors?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Now that I've changed the coolant, oil, tires, glow plugs, UVCHs; cleaned the battery terminals; and put a few miles on it... It drives fine, but the transmission is constantly locking & unlocking the TCC. I haven't repaired the bare wires, but they're not shorting to anything, or cut through.
 

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For the rats nest, you might just want to get a whole new engine harness. That's what I did when mine was looking pretty oil soaked and tired. Riffraff Diesel sells them, but they are a little expensive. Imo totally worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've washed the rat nests out, which also got the harness clean, so there's no reason to replace it. Eventually, I'll re-insulate those few bare wires. The ABS code 11 is probably the reason the TCC keeps unlocking: it's detecting the brake lights always on because I installed LEDs. I'll add a resistor...
 
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