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PSN intsigator
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Yep, it pretty much bolts right up. The tedius part is getting the pulley lined up.

My 02 needs a pump, maybe I'll start the parts gathering process
 
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I believe on the obs you can run a pump from a van that’s a Saginaw without cutting up your mount. The pulley is the hard part it find.
 
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Native Texan
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so is the van bracket

I was born into Gobernment health care. And will die in Gobernment Health care. God Bless Our Military Men And Women.
 
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PSN intsigator
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I was under the impression that the pulleys were the same. I shall have to look further into that
 

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I believe the pump comes from a newer. The thread is over on the army. I’ll see if I can find it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #950 ·
thanks you guys! Will research the crap out of this before I turn any wrenches......
Good time to upgrade to rear discs? My van has rear disc brakes and still the 8x6.5 bolt circle, that would be nice!

FYI my middle name is "tedious"
There was one guy up here who tried to do an Uber.....it didn't work out for Uber but he now has a fleet of small mini vans and they run seniors all over town and to the airport...take that Uber!
Also we do have to red neck pass farm tractors and hay wagons on the road around here, but its okay because my insurance rates are 1/5 of what they were in Colorado and all 4 of my polaris machines have license plates on them...........Small town America lives on in the PNW!! (shhhhhhhh its still secret)
 
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PSN intsigator
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I refuse to go to the army for anything, they are a bunch of whiney crybabies
 
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Here. I'll spoon feed you.



I can't take credit for coming up with this mod. In my search I found discussions going back to at least 2004 about replacing the stock C2 pump with a C3 pump using all Ford parts.

Any OBS owner knows the stock C2 is lacking in both flow and pressure and that most "re-manufactured" pumps are about as bad as the worn out one it was to replace. Performance suffers further when more demands are made of the pump like large tires or adding hydroboost.

However Ford was equipping the 7.3 vans with an improved C3 style pump. These parts will bolt right up to the OBS motor with no mods. One can use the van pump but a 6.0 pump will also bolt right in. The only obstacle to overcome is that the new pump requires a remote reservoir.

I'll tackle the reservoir first, this was the biggest challenge for me with this project due to lack of available space. I already have my CCV filter mounted on the IDM. The ISSPRO Performax brain box is tucked into the corner on the firewall. The IC pipe and AC lines clutter up the space next to the radiator. I had one sliver of space left right between the hydroboost unit and the Isspro box. Not liking any of the commercially available remote reservoirs I set out to make my own. After a lot of thought and reading discussions on reservoir design I came up with something about the size of a large paint spray can. It holds just over a quart of fluid which should be plenty adequate. Top and bottom caps are sealed with an oring plus I put another oring seal for the cap, added a vent, dipstick and baffle plate to prevent fluid from sloshing into the vent. Being a machinist and engineer plus having my own shop really helped here.



Next the firewall is marked for the reservoir location. I did have to unbolt the booster to gain access for drilling the holes but there was enough room to kind of push things aside without removing the master cylinder or brake lines. I selected some stainless steel rivet nuts, drilling them reaming the holes to the specified size.



I did end up having to space the reservoir out from the firewall and additional 1/8". I did this with some washers but plan to make a proper spacer plate when time permits.



The engraved dipstick. I calculated the fluid expansion in Solidworks and it actually came out pretty accurate.





With that out of the way I moved on to the pump itself. I used a NOS 2005 6.0 pump that popped up on Ebay for less than most part store remans. It is marked HBD-MX and from what I could find published it puts out 2.8-3.2gpm with a min/max relief of 1750 and 1850psi.

The stock HBC-JX pump flows 1.4gpm with relief setting of 1400 and 1530psi. The HBC-JY which was used on the SD trucks with hydroboost flows 1.5gpm with a 1450 and 1530psi relief.

So the 6.0 pump put out a nice bump in both flow rate and pressure.



The pump bracket is from an Ebay auto salvage seller. New brackets are also available if you want to spend the money. This is a direct bolt in for the stock OBS part. Your AC compressor and vacuum pump will bolt right up. The orientation of the vacuum pump is now horizontal instead of being tilted up slightly but its actual position on the engine is the same. Same goes for the pump itself which means you do not need to get a longer/shorter belt.



Now for the pulley, this might be the hardest part to get hold of. You need to use the van pulley, no way around this that I'm aware of. The C3 pump shaft is slightly smaller than the C2 so your stock pulley will not fit. The van one is identical to the stock pulley except for the smaller bore. Aftermarket pulleys are not available for the van so get scrounging in the salvage yards. Ebay again came to my rescue with a NOS pulley which is pictured on the left here.


Install is straight forward, just swap one bracket assembly for the other.



The hoses are pretty straight forward too. I used a good quality 3/8 power steering hose to go between the reservoir and hydroboost unit as well as the return line coming off my fluid cooler.

The pressure hose I modified from the stock hydroboost line. I cut off the metal line right where it turns to rubber on the booster end, flared it and used a 3/8 jic coupler. The pump takes a metric ORB fitting, M16 x 1.5 to 3/8 jic. At the time I could not find a supplier who had a 90° fitting in stock so I used a straight one. Thought I could use a hydraulic hose with a 90° elbow on one end but the steering gear lines were in the way. So I used a piece of heavy wall tubing and bent it into a U then bent one leg over at 90° and angled it to line up with the hydraulic hose that connects up to the piece coming off the booster. In the future I plan to neaten this up now that I have a 90° metric to jic fitting. I can dispense with the lower section of bent tubing and just get a longer hydraulic hose.

After double checking everything I filled the system with LE 7500 power fluid and purged the air per Ford's procedure. Now I never really had any issues with my HBC-JY pump which I installed at the same time as my hydroboost unit. However I can say there is a marked improvement with both steering and braking with this new pump! It take less braking effort to stop the truck and steering feels lighter and more positive than before esp at idle and low speeds. No issues noted at all when using brakes and steering at the same time. I do have a spare hydrobooster unit here and am thinking about consulting with VANCO to see if having it ported will yield even better results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #953 ·
yeah buddy!
Good info there

I have the superduty power steering reservoir I hope I can use that. I need to find a 7.3 van parting out. Do the gasser vans use a similar PS pump and pulley or is it just powerstroke vans?


After hydroboost what other functions relay on the vacuum pump? The Hvac controls?
 

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Project Shamu
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yeah buddy!
Good info there

I have the superduty power steering reservoir I hope I can use that. I need to find a 7.3 van parting out. Do the gasser vans use a similar PS pump and pulley or is it just powerstroke vans?


After hydroboost what other functions relay on the vacuum pump? The Hvac controls?
The glasser Van's are different, its strictly the diesel Van's. Theres a bracket on Ebay right now for $135+free shipping.

Just the HVAC controls run on vacuum if I remember correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #955 ·
Okay time to find the parts I need
You guys ROCK!

Happy Labor day, make it a good one......
 

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Discussion Starter · #956 ·
Hello PSN!!!!!

dang been 7 months since I posted here

The 97 has not needed anything but she was also snowed in all winter in a carport.
Now that the snow is mostly gone (april in North Idaho) I have been using her again!
After sitting all winter she fired right up!

Went to run some errands, take trash out and at the dump she quit, would not re start....click click click all I get from the starter solenoid (the one on the starter)
So I cleaned all battery cables/connections, ground wires, etc....same thing CLICK CLICK
Looked it up....I had replaced the starter in 2019 with a NEW unit from DB electric sold on Amazon....bad idea. Lasted 11 months.

So I bought a 3 bolt gear reduction Motorcraft starter on Rockauto.....getting installed today
Truck needs front brakes (caught fire last year hauling brick!) the fronts have been a little "touchy" ever since
I have new brakes, "School bus" rotors and pads, new calipers sitting downstairs.
So today she gets new starter and new front brakes..........

After that I need to replace a few LED's in the flatbed I killed since I did not have mud flaps.
The drivers door panel (coverall) has the black paint fading where my arm sits. I expected this, but not so soon.
The headliner is all 1997 and needs to be re done
I still have a rubber floor kit for a superduty to install when the sun is out
Pretty sure I scorched the snot out of my LUK clutch disc last year pulling those bricks over the mountain passes. I was also fiddling with the adjustable clutch pushrod length and the clutch pedal was all wrong. I removed another 1/8" from the rod, re installed the heim and I think I have the pedal right where I want it now. I am sure that did not help my luk clutch.
So I will probably replace at least the driven disc this year as well

The 97 will get some love this summer! She's almost ready to go back to work hauling lumber and ranger based vehicles!

Hope you are all doing well, we are sheltering in place, social distance, all that Covid stuff.....you don't have to tell me to stay at home, back in the woods, and home school my kids.... No problem! Not much of a stretch for us. Spent the last 2+ years setting up the homestead back here and Custom Ranger shop....things are working out nicely, recently sold a 302 Ranger we built, working on a wicked 2007 ranger build, and many many other projects going on as usual.
Stay safe!
 
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Hello PSN!!!!!

dang been 7 months since I posted here

The 97 has not needed anything but she was also snowed in all winter in a carport.
Now that the snow is mostly gone (april in North Idaho) I have been using her again!
After sitting all winter she fired right up!

Went to run some errands, take trash out and at the dump she quit, would not re start....click click click all I get from the starter solenoid (the one on the starter)
So I cleaned all battery cables/connections, ground wires, etc....same thing CLICK CLICK
Looked it up....I had replaced the starter in 2019 with a NEW unit from DB electric sold on Amazon....bad idea. Lasted 11 months.

So I bought a 3 bolt gear reduction Motorcraft starter on Rockauto.....getting installed today
Truck needs front brakes (caught fire last year hauling brick!) the fronts have been a little "touchy" ever since
I have new brakes, "School bus" rotors and pads, new calipers sitting downstairs.
So today she gets new starter and new front brakes..........

After that I need to replace a few LED's in the flatbed I killed since I did not have mud flaps.
The drivers door panel (coverall) has the black paint fading where my arm sits. I expected this, but not so soon.
The headliner is all 1997 and needs to be re done
I still have a rubber floor kit for a superduty to install when the sun is out
Pretty sure I scorched the snot out of my LUK clutch disc last year pulling those bricks over the mountain passes. I was also fiddling with the adjustable clutch pushrod length and the clutch pedal was all wrong. I removed another 1/8" from the rod, re installed the heim and I think I have the pedal right where I want it now. I am sure that did not help my luk clutch.
So I will probably replace at least the driven disc this year as well

The 97 will get some love this summer! She's almost ready to go back to work hauling lumber and ranger based vehicles!

Hope you are all doing well, we are sheltering in place, social distance, all that Covid stuff.....you don't have to tell me to stay at home, back in the woods, and home school my kids.... No problem! Not much of a stretch for us. Spent the last 2+ years setting up the homestead back here and Custom Ranger shop....things are working out nicely, recently sold a 302 Ranger we built, working on a wicked 2007 ranger build, and many many other projects going on as usual.
Stay safe!
Do you have the ranger builds posted somewhere, perhaps on another site? I've always been a ranger fan, had 7 of them over the years.
 

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Native Californian
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How in the world did you burn up a new LUK clutch? Was it the pedal adjustment? I have towed heavy with LUK clutches for years and never burned one up, but there is a first time for everything. Sounds like you have a lot of good projects lined up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #960 ·
Hey! Yes my Ranger builds are documented and posted. I have been building ranger based trucks for over 25 years now
I have 3ea 5.0 projects in the shop right now! A 98 Ranger 5.0 4x4 we just completed and sold, a 07 ranger getting some wicked parts (v8, long travel coilover suspension, Holley Dominator PCM, custom interior etc) and a 2002 Sport trac 5.0 AWD. That is just wrapping up the winter projects.

I post on the explorer forum (since 1999) and Ford-rangers.com a new smaller sight with a great group of guys


Explorer forum 07 build

Ranger forum 98 build


Actually it turns out I did not burn up the luk clutch! Good news. Yesterday when I replaced the starter I removed the clutch cover and had a look, still plenty of meat on the driven disc.
Yes it was the pedal adjustment issue. My 97 F350 bellcrank assembly (the clutch pedal pivots) are a bit worn out and to get rid of the play I added one of those Ebay heim joint kits. It worked out great, but I did not remove enough material, so the clutch rod was too long for a bit. (The pedal was too far out for a year?) I noticed a little slipping when hooked to a heavy trailer. So with the grinder I removed a little more material (like 1/8" at a time).....heavier trailer, still a little slippage, so this time I took off another 1/8" and I think I have it....no more slippage, but I feared the worst.
Looks like she still has a few more years left in her.

So I get the new motorcraft starter in, re did the wiring terminals and wow she starts up quickly now, plenty of cranking RPM

So I start to replace the front brakes, new Raebestos specialty pads and rotors the "school bus" package
head to Autozone for two new calipers.....bring the old ones in for cores ($40 core charge!!)

I check the new calipers in their boxes from 6' away (social distancing) and the new calipers look correct. give them my cores and exchange boxes.......get home, pull them out... Nope! wrong damn calipers.
So now Autozone took my cores and the boxes, I am left with the wrong parts.
Plus one caliper is painted and one is bare metal???
Correct part numbers on the receipt, the pictures on the website look correct, but they sent me home with the wrong ones......DANG

So back to the zone I go this am...............after I go pickup a 99 Ranger 4 banger rwd (which is my next victim!)

new rotors: check


new pads: check


Wrong damn calipers?: OF COURSE
 
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