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Discussion Starter #1
Awesome forum - and stoked that this wealth of information is available. I have an '11 F150 ecoboost 2wd; so lets assume that I am new to REAL trucks. We just recently bought a 50 acre farm in East TN and I need a beast. Have a tractor, 15' batwing, UTV, and a bunch of land to run around on.
I am interested in getting a 2001 F350 7.3 PS with 268k. Guy says he has kept it well maintained, but still all stock. Just a little rust on right rear fender. I havent personally seen it yet, but wondering what should I be thinking about as far as value / cost - seeing as it looks like I'll be needing to replace tranny, injectors, glowplugs, etc etc in the next 50k miles or so. Anything else I should be thinking of before I go shopping? thanks!
 

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Transmission. The 01 had a mechanical diode that would fail but at 268K it's probably on it's second or third tranny by now. If it's only on it's second it might be coming up for one again soon. If he towed hopefully he upgraded the cooler, the stock tranny cooler is insufficient for towing. A truck that has never had a chip or tuner is a good find in my book. Too many have been tuned/chipped for big power then beat on.

Can't help much on price, a good 7.3 will bring good money, is is 4WD? Location is a huge factor on price too, just look at prices in PNW and CA.
 

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Transmission. The 01 had a mechanical diode that would fail but at 268K it's probably on it's second or third tranny by now. If it's only on it's second it might be coming up for one again soon. If he towed hopefully he upgraded the cooler, the stock tranny cooler is insufficient for towing. A truck that has never had a chip or tuner is a good find in my book. Too many have been tuned/chipped for big power then beat on.

Can't help much on price, a good 7.3 will bring good money, is is 4WD? Location is a huge factor on price too, just look at prices in PNW and CA.
yes, 4wd. Off road package. Lariat.
 

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Transmission. The 01 had a mechanical diode that would fail but at 268K it's probably on it's second or third tranny by now. If it's only on it's second it might be coming up for one again soon. If he towed hopefully he upgraded the cooler, the stock tranny cooler is insufficient for towing. A truck that has never had a chip or tuner is a good find in my book. Too many have been tuned/chipped for big power then beat on.

Can't help much on price, a good 7.3 will bring good money, is is 4WD? Location is a huge factor on price too, just look at prices in PNW and CA.
And a new tranny, injectors, turbo might cost me how much..?
 

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Well for these trannys you don't want a typical tranny shop to do th erebuild, these trannys have a few shortcomings that can get by the average production builder. The best choices are a Ford HD reman if you can find one. Also Brian's Truck Shop in Arkansas is known for some of the best rebuilds you can get on the 4R100. Another one over in CA is John Woods. There are a few more that have popped up in recent years but you have to do your homework, if you just take it anywhere it will be a crap shoot on what kind of job they will do and if they even know about all the upgrades that will make it last. As far as injectors someone will chime in, I've never needed them and I don't really know who is in favor now. Pretty sure they will set you back a couple hundred each for decent ones. Many people get 400-500K on original injectors though, and just do new orings when needed. The solenoids can be re-shimmed and the orings renewed and put em back in service for another 100-200K. Turbo prices seem to be all over the board but I got mine for around $600 about 5 years ago from Gomer's in Missoula. It was a stock one.
 

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farmboy,

Have you driven the truck yet? I'm curious to know why you think the truck is going to need a "tranny, injectors, glow plugs, etc etc in the next 50k miles." There are folks on the forum that have 450k+ miles on original injectors. You can use a multimeter to check the resistance of the glow plugs (and injectors for that matter). To be honest, I would only change the glow plugs if the truck won't start in cold weather (or will start in cold weather after plugging in the block heater). Many of the guys around here carry an extra CPS (camshaft position sensor) and a wrench to change it out. I don't know the history of the truck, and I have only driven manual transmissions... so this may be taken with a big grain of salt... but on the transmission - if it isn't slipping in any of the gears is there a need to have it rebuilt? Bullet proofing auto transmissions seems to cost anywhere from $4500 up to 7 or 8k.

Cj
 

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Tranny, $1400 (stock style rebuild installed) to $ Stupid money for billet everything with unobtainium torque converter

Injectors again stock $1000 or so for a stock rebuilt set to $3500?

Turbo, depends on what you are looking for. Rebuild kit for the stock turbo is about $300, wicked wheel another $250 Aftermarket the sky is the limit.....

glow plugs $9 ea for motorcraft ish... Valve cover gaskets and harnesses figure $200 for the whole setup if you do the labor yourself.
 

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Hi, have you looked at the engine, from the top(climb on the front bumper and look all over especially in the valley, also check how the wiring looks) and from the bottom(checking the engine(especially the oil pan), transfer case, transmission, the drive shaft. I have a 2002 Ford F250 7.3 , Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4. It has 172,000 miles on it. I have had it almost 15 years. I replaced the oil pan a year and half ago. FYI, the engine must be pulled out of the truck to replace the oil pan. I live in Colorado Springs. I had Front Range Auto Center do the work. The old stock oil pan was leaking oil from multiple places. I replaced it with a new Moroso oil pan because it is made of thicker gauge steel and it has a heavy duty exterior coating on it. While the engine was out, I had the following work done:
1. Pulled all of the injectors to replace all of the injector O-rings and remove and replace the injector cups.
2. Remove the exhaust manifolds to replace all of the exhaust manifold bolts and replace the exhaust manifold gaskets(also had the driver side exhaust manifold drilled and tapped for an EGT Sensor).
3. The oil cooler was rebuilt with new O-Rings.
4. The rear main oil seal was replaced.
5. Replaced the high pressure oil rail plugs(the ones on the back are a mother to try and replace while the engine is in).
6. Since I had already replaced the glow plugs myself less than a year earlier(the technician checked them and they were all still good). There are plenty of YouTube for replacing glow plugs.
7. Since the Power Steering Pump was leaking I had it replaced at this time, but I could have easily done that job.
Caution: while the engine was out, I also had them replace the stock torque converter. "BIG MISTAKE" My plan was to upgrade the torque since that seems to be the weakest link in the 4R100 transmission. I bought the top of the line Precission Industries "Stallion" torque converter. It has been a problem ever since it was installed. The Over Drive Off light on the gear shifter flashes intermittently, indicating that the torque converter is slipping. If I had a vehicle lift and a transmission jack stand I would remove it and send it back to Precission Industries. But Front Range Auto Center wants another $600 to put my stock torque converter back in. Also, the new torque converter has reduced my MPGs from 18 down to 12. Stay away from Precission Industries.
The grand total for all of the work with parts, not including the cost of the torque converter, was $4,200.
Good luck!
 
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