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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry, no big horsepower from this one...but we still thought this product was pretty darn cool. The website explains it in more detail, but in short...it's a true solution to the leak problems with the factory dipstick adapter and it eliminates the need to remove the engine/oil pan to repair the leak properly.

For what it's worth, the hardest part of the install will be removing the nut from a stock adapter with messed up threads or that has been "fixed" before with silicone or epoxy. Once the stock junk has been removed, installation (and removal should it need to be serviced) is fast and easy, requires no special tools and never requires removal of the engine or oil pan.

Dipstick Adapter Repair Kit

Let us know if you've got any questions.
 

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Nice
 

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looks good, but the price seems high for the machining involved, maybe I'm missing something.
 

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2Cruel
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IH Has made a repair kit for many years that repairs leaking adapters for a fraction of that price.

Travis
 

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02 CCSB
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They leave the inner portion of the adapter in the bottom of the pan? $300....????
 

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Discussion Starter #6
looks good, but the price seems high for the machining involved, maybe I'm missing something.
There is more than machining involved in product pricing. First, you don't see all of the parts in the pictures on the website. Second, development costs and overhead play into pricing as well. The product is also being made in relatively small quantities right now because we've got no idea how sales will go...if we can get to a point where we are ordering in large quantities, pricing will hopefully drop.

IH Has made a repair kit for many years that repairs leaking adapters for a fraction of that price.
Yup, and it leaves the stock adapter in the pan. We've seen those adapters deformed where the o-ring won't seal, seen the threads stripped, etc. What do you do then?

They leave the inner portion of the adapter in the bottom of the pan? $300....????
Yup, it stays in the bottom of the sump. Pricing addressed above.
 

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sucks overhead is that high, It seems like because the right way includes pulling the motor, as long as this costs less then that,people might buy it....just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It costs WAAAAAYYYYY less! AllData quotes R&R of the engine at 11 hours (not including any parts or parts swapping). Not sure what shop labor rates are like where you are at...but that's spendy anywhere you go. Your truck is also down while the work is done, 1-2 days in someones shop if they work on it non stop. So, for $350 (regular price) and an hour in the shop (or your driveway), you can be fixed and back on the road...big difference.
 

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2Cruel
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I like your product and if i ever have an issue that the IH Kit that is less then 100 bucks wont work on i will give your idea a shot, However in say 30-40 i have done the IH Kit worked fine. Oh yeah you are to remove the O'ring in the repair kit and as long as the internal adapter isnt broke deformed does not matter

Thanks Travis
 

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I could really use one of these kits?How much testing has been done on it?But 300 bucks seems way to high for what you get!I will look at the IH kit and other options!I hope you can get the price down and I know you could sell alot of them!Just my 2 cents Thanks greg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It turns out that there is a fitment problem with this product and HYPERMAX connecting rods. For specific information and photos showing the problem, please see the notice in RED at this link:

Dipstick Adapter Repair Kit

Please let us know if you have any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No sir, and I do not anticipate that it will. The cost to make them has not gone down, nor has the cost to run a business (employees, insurance, utilities, rent, etc). It is what it is.

I'm going to be blunt about the price complaint on this part, you either want to fix the problem the right way, or you want to fix it the cheap way. There are 2 "right" ways, and 1 "cheap" way:

Right Way #1 : Remove the engine, remove the oil pan, completely replace the OE part with another OE part, reinstall the pan and reinstall the engine. This is very time consuming, and if you pay a shop, very expensive. What you get is a new interior piece that isn't deformed, as well as a new o-ring...and it should last you as long as your original one did (many thousands of miles if done right). The only downside, you still have the factory pile of pot-metal crap. If the nut gets overtightened, the interior piece deforms (think of an inside out umbrella), which causes the o-ring surface to actually pull away from the pan, which makes the part useless because the o-ring will never seal properly.

Right Way #2 : Our part. Installed in less than an hour, externally serviceable if it ever needs O-rings replaced, can be sealed with RTV in the case of a severely warped oil pan and is still serviceable after doing so, never deforms, only possible failure point (other than the O-rings) is breaking a screw...and if that happens...someone was putting way too much muscle into tightening it. This is an "install it and forget it" deal, and if it does leak down the road, your only cost is very inexpensive O-rings and an hour to change them out. Yes, it's quite a bit more expensive than the POS factory part, or just buying an O-ring for the POS factory part, but you are getting a billet machined part that is significantly higher in quality and that you won't have to replace again...vs a part that is cast from crap material and deforms easily if overtightened.

Cheap Way : Mess around changing the o-ring on the existing part and hope that it seals for a while. IF the factory part has never been touched (particularly if nobody has ever tried to tighten the nut to stop the leak), this can work for a while. If anyone has ever messed with the factory part trying to fix it, either by tightening it more or gooping it up with RTV or whatever, this method is likely to just be a temporary bandaid.
 
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