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so many trees
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so my truck makes the feeling of the brakes loosing and grabbing when im braking slowly. like 10mph and slower. i talked to mike at dieseloutfitters and he said he's had this problem its that the rotors on sd get warped over time. i asked him what i could do to fix it and he said either slotted to last longer or spend 3600 on stainless to remove the problem.

im not gonna drop 3600 on stainless so what are some good brands for slotted rear rotors. my front rotors are already slotted.
 

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2nd class citizen
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Cryo treated power slot rotors.
 

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I got cryo treated (and they were slotted) front rotors to resolve the front rotors from warping, i tried having them turned and replacing them. At the time there were two companies that made them. i got the lesser expensive of the two and had them shipped to my house. No regrets.
Terry
 

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Reloading
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429 Posts
I had problems with my Powerslot cryo rotors in less than a year. I've had NAPA's ultra premium rotors for some time now and don't have a complaint. BTW I use Hawk pads with them.
 

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There can be only one
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I just installed SSBC on all 4 corners - $589. Love em.

SSBC
 

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Need more power!!
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Those are nice and priced right. Thats what I'm gonna go with.
 

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I have Ford OEM's in Front (2 years now) and Napa premium in the back (1.5 years now)
no complaint so far.

Travis T
 

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so many trees
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281 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
cool thanks for the info. i think im gonna go ssbc. seems a good price and i only need two. my fronts were replaced just before i got the rig
 

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I have a paradigm shifter for you to think about.

Years ago I did some reading on "warped" brake rotors. Some guy (I don't recall who) did some testing on several supposedly warped rotors and they were not warped at all according to his testing equipment. There was, however, build up of material from the pads on the rotors concentrated in certain areas. He may have used a microscope or something to show this, I don't remember exactly. The metal was not warped though. I do remember that. The problem, he said, had to do with not breaking in the pads and rotors together. The material from the pads were transferring over to the rotors unevenly when they got really hot from a hard stop and you stop at a light and hold the pedal down. Ever see a rotor with the image of a pad burned on it? That's what happens when you come to a complete stop after hard braking that gets the pad/rotors really hot. Once the first bit of material lays down on the rotor, the seeding has begun, and it is only a matter of time until the pedal starts pulsating. The material builds up over time at that spot until you get a larger and larger "bump" on the rotor, which you eventually feel in the pedal and steering wheel. Getting the rotors turned will "fix" the problem for a while, as it shaves off the bump, but the transfer of material continues from the pad to the rotor, so they will eventually "warp" again.

The only fix, he said, was to get new pads and rotors and then break them in. How you do this is to go into the boonies somewhere where you can speed up, slow down, and drive without stopping. Do 8 or 10 55mph - 5mph hard decelerations, where the ABS almost kicks in. Drive a mile or so between cycles to let the brakes cool a little, but DO NOT STOP or you will mess up your rotors (see first paragraph). By the end of this break-in, your brakes will be literally smoking, and you will understand what brake fade means. After you complete the 55-5 mph braking cycles, drive around for a while to let the brakes cool off (without completely stopping) and then you are done.

Take this for what it's worth, but I have used this technique myself on a Suburban and a LX470 and can tell you that the long term success has been perfect in both cases. You have to drop some $$ up front to get new rotors/pads all around, but this worked for me two times now. My Suburban always had the same problem with pulsating "warped" rotors before, but the OEM style rotors/pads I broke in this way have been on the vehicle for probably 6 years now, and tens of thousands of miles, with no hint of pulsation at all.

My 03 Excursion has a really bad case of "warped" rotors. I have not fully worked the brakes on it yet. I intend to get a new set of new OEM style rotors and pads and do the same thing described above. Hopefully it will work as well as it has in the past.
 

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Village Idiot
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8,209 Posts
There is a breakin proceedure on hawk pads, i saw a good write up a long time ago that had a powerslot install. Was kinda similar to that ....not as drastiic but specific.
 

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Centric Cyro Slotted rotors, love em. I work all day with frequent short stops in hilly terrain. These have been the best thing to use for me without doing a full larger caliper swap and spending tons of money. Centric makes all the parts for most OEMs, Stoptech, powerslots you name it.
 

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Dont know what I want
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507 Posts
Ive had 2 psd and only replaced two front rotors on my 02 cause the previous owner ran them with wore the hell out brakes. I would just go to oreillys and buy some more. Mine are wagners now. I paid less than 100 a peice. nvr mnd i think it was 170 for 2 rotors and all new brakes.
 
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