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Discussion Starter #1
I have been battling with my pedal assembly in my 97 F350 and it finally won. The clutch arm that slides onto the clutch pedal shaft will not stay in adjustment as the splines are sheared off. Does anyone have any kind of advice? I am going to go get some two part epoxy during lunch and see if I can get the arm to remain in the same location so that I can get back to my house. Any thoughts from ya'll?
 

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That is about the best you can do until you get parts...might get some jb weld and don't use your clutch to shift only use it at stop light and stop signs
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I actually got another clutch arm and will be putting that on this afternoon before I leave work. It appears that the clutch arm is a sacrificial piece, a $40 sacrificial piece from the dealership that is.
 

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It appears that the clutch arm is a sacrificial piece, a $40 sacrificial piece from the dealership that is.
Officially, that's correct. The FSM actually directs that you replace that arm EVERY time you remove it from the shaft. Not a problem for the service tech spending someone else's money....

'Course, this would be a non-issue if they just used a length-adjustable pushrod.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, well I got the arm on there and found out it wasn't adjusted correctly, now I can't get the thing off and I am really stuck.
 

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Use a couple of big screwdrivers to pry it off (working it a little at a time). Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got after it with a crow bar while the pedal box was in the truck and that did nothing, so I am going to get it home and pull the pedal box down tonight and try to pry it off in the garage. Push comes to shove I will just take it and get the thing pressed off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
^^^^ +1; TWO screwdrivers (or small pry-bars) is the key; 180 degrees apart from one another.
Can you get two screw drivers into the gap with the assembly still in the truck? I hadn't had a chance to try that one and I am stuck at work with the truck down in the parking lot.
 

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Yeah. Start with one. Work one side out, then get the other one in. DON'T take the nut off all the way. That way, when it finally pops loose, it won't go flying.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just found another screw driver and tried that and the clutch lever is stuck on there really good. It is bending the pedal box when I apply pressure to try to get the the lever off. Any more suggestions? I would really like to get this thing driving so that I can make it home tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Stick a fork in it, it's done. :poke: Gonna pull the pedal box tonight when I get home and take the clutch shaft out to get the arm pressed off tomorrow. Thanks for the help, hopefully someone else can benefit from this ignorance.:doh:
 

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It's slipping on the splines of the shaft, but it's stuck? Weird.

You do have it disconnected from the pushrod, right? Try putting a vise-grip on it and "rotating" it relative to the shaft. Seems like if it's not keeping its position on the shaft, it shouldn't be stuck on that hard.

You could try heat, but it would probably cook the pedal box bushings.

Another option - if it's that hard to remove, maybe it's jammed in a new position on the shaft, and won't rotate any further, but it's still "back" too far to operate the pushrod properly. If you think that's the case, you could try loosening the nut on the other end of the shaft, and prying the pedal off that end, and "re-clocking" the pedal on the shaft, so the arm is in a more favorable position. That might at least get you home. Then you'll probably have to pull the whole pedal box, use some heat, and be ready with a new set of pedal box bushings (you're hitting the dealership, right?).
 

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I think his original lever arm was slipping on the splines and he purchased a new one. He put the new one on (not in the optimum position) and can't get that one off. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You are correct Patrick, but now I have another problem. I was able to get the clutch arm off by pulling the assembly and using two tire tools pry off the lever. I then got the pedal box installed and the arm clocked all of the way to operate the clutch to find out that I still couldn't get any disengagement and the pedal feels like mush. Adding insult to injury the hydraulics are shot. :mad: So, now I have a new sealed dorman replacement master/slave cylinder on the way to try to get the truck to operate again. The package comes in on the 12th, hopefully sooner, and then the truck in theory should operate. Thanks for the help guys.


Oh and I call :bsflag: on having to replace that clutch lever arm each and every time. Why would Ford make that the only adjustment point on the entire system!? :badidea:
 

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An adjustable rod would have been a nice idea, but since there are really no adjustments with a hydraulic system, once it is setup it should stay good. Cheers!
 

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Oh I was just spouting the FSM "party line" about the arm. I've re-clocked the arm on both PSDs and our '85 IDI several times with no problem. Once again, they write the FSM for the dealership service tech, spending someone else's (our...) money.
 
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