[Hollow6]

Hey so I have a 2000 ford f350 with 350k miles I was offered for a old bmw i don't use. I was very interested because I need a truck and would love a turbo diesel but now here's the problems. So when I got there I wanted to scan vehicle ,the obd 2 port received no power and I seen some rewired wires in the cab. The truck takes a lil while to start about 10 cranks or so but it is cold and it won't rev over 2k rpm.The kid just bought it that I'm getting it from so I'm pretty sure he bought it and couldn't figure it out . So moral of the story is I'm very mechanically inclined and want the truck and believe I can get it running right but do these problems sound like the car is a lemon and should i save myself the hassle or can I bring her back to life I just care about the engine

 

[Hendy]

Welcome to PSN

What scan tool do you have, 90% of the scanners can't scan trucks like this and a more heavy duty one is required ( a good one is Forscan, I don't know much about it but user @Jax can supplement for me)

As to the truck taking a while to start, did you allow proper time for the glow plugs to cycle, how fast does it crank ( a good fast crank aids fast and easy starting), bad electrical connections can also cause a hard start/no start, check the High pressure oil pump reservoir and make sure that the oil is kind of close to the top ( if not that can point to a bad Low pressure oil pump), take the fuel filter out and see if it's black in color or the diesel is dark as well which could be a leaky injector O-ring, When you crank does the RPM gauge move ( if it moves intermittently it could be a failing CPS)

I see that you say the OBDII port has no power, see if the #22 fuse is blown as that supplies power to the PCM.



The all caps may seem aggressive but I know a lot of people who ended up getting a car in "unpreparable" condition so...
MAKE SURE TO GET PRE PURCHASE INSPECTION

 

[Hendy]

I will try to think of some other things you can check for ( without codes it gets kind of hard to understand what exactly is happening) you should get more responses earlyish tomorrow and I hope we can help you in this decision

 

[Hollow6]

I appreciate that this is my first diesel truck I don't know much about diesel but I just want to make sure that I'm not getting myself into a mess I will say I'm trying to get something that I can turn into a reliable truck but I am mechanically inclined to swap in a younger motor if that is the solution I just don't want another project car 😭seems like an expensive one too

 

[1970something]

at 300kmiles, the price and condition of the rest of the truck will be determining factor.
if it runs good with no funny noises or fliud contamination ,you should be safe. if the body is bad or if the electrical system looks like a 5 year old was into it, i would run away from it though, as that would negate the benefit of the good running engine.

 

[JustAFenceBuilder]

Also keep in mind that with these trucks you are interviewing the previous owner for their maintenance habits as much as you are examining the vehicle.

Forscan Lite + a good blue tooth adapter is the cheapest/most effective way to dig into these truck’s brains.

‎FORScan Lite - for Ford, Mazda

‎FORScan Lite application was developed specially for a computer diagnostics of Ford, Mazda, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles. Supported adapters: - OBDLink MX+ (recommended) - vLinker FD BLE (recommended) - other ELM327-compatible WiFi or BLE adapter (not recommended). Attention: this application...

apps.apple.com

now to the mechanical

1) Check for oil leaks

2) if it’s a long crank, is it turning slow or fast when you crank it? Hard to tell if you haven’t been around these trucks much, but kinda have to determine that. Might throw some jumper cables on it to see if some extra amperage helps it go faster. Might be all you need is to clean the terminals, or it may need new batteries (group 65 batteries ain’t cheap)

3) if you determine the cranking is adequate, look at the ICP and IPR duty cycle on forscan. If they come up to pressure quickly while the truck is cranking quickly then you’re set. If not then see number 1. Look deep into the truck’s valley.

If it’s had wiring worked on and it doesn’t look clean and well done, I’d probably run away.

Has the trans been worked on? At 340k it could be on its last legs if it’s the OEM unit. If it’s been rebuilt, how has the new unit been maintained?


These trucks are great, and they can be super reliable while still making good power. They’re not gonna be a crazy 2000 hp race truck or whatever but they can make enough power to pull anything you want, and still put a smile on your face while doing it. Listen to the people here (not me, I’m an idiot), they know their stuff.

 

[PowerStrokeMeF450]

These engines take some special tools and extra time to do checks on. At 350k I'd be wanting a full compression check, HPOP pressure check, fuel pressure check, and inspect the trans fluid/diff for any metal in the fluid. If all these check out ok you have the potential for a good truck after figuring out different system sensor issues and maintenance etc. A scanner that can communicate with the manufacturer specific system is very important for reading codes/data. Luckily most issues on these are just sensors and not very expensive. Usually no communication with a scanner is a blown fuse, so start there. Key on and run through all the fuses with a test light. Replace any blown and re-try.

Always a good idea to shake down the front end for ball joints and steering looseness. Push up and down/side to side on the driveshaft at each u-joint feeling for play, also the center support bearing if there is one, and most importantly the diff pinion yoke. If the pinion moves, the diff will need rebuilt. These are all things you can use to better bargain the price and also decide if you even want the darn thing. Maybe your BMW is better off being sold or traded for a better rig.

 

[Jax]

Hey so I have a 2000 ford f350 with 350k miles I was offered for a old bmw i don't use. I was very interested because I need a truck and would love a turbo diesel but now here's the problems. So when I got there I wanted to scan vehicle ,the obd 2 port received no power and I seen some rewired wires in the cab. The truck takes a lil while to start about 10 cranks or so but it is cold and it won't rev over 2k rpm. The kid just bought it that I'm getting it from so I'm pretty sure he bought it and couldn't figure it out . So moral of the story is I'm very mechanically inclined and want the truck and believe I can get it running right but do these problems sound like the car is a lemon and should i save myself the hassle or can I bring her back to life I just care about the engine

Welcome to PSN!

If you are willing to spend the time, a straight swap for a vehicle you don't use is an awesome price. I am prejudiced - I bought a 99 for $1800 and built it with guidance and suggestions from this forum. She runs like a <blankity-blank>!

1. Get FORScan scanning software for Fords (free) and an OBDII reader. Greatest troubleshooting tool ever! I do not have financial interest in this tool. I just love it.
$12 for the 1-year PC license (not necc) and $7 for the android. OBDII reader $20-$60.

2. DO NOT throw parts at it . . . if you must, then make them Motorcraft parts. Ford diesels are quite particular about their sensors.

3. Come back with the codes. Lots and lots of smart people here!

A. You can get wiring diagrams for the 2000 F350 from Ebay for $4. The guy will email them to you.

B. Be prepared to spend a little money on it to bring it "around". I could have spent just 10k, but . . . I'm fond of power, so I put some real money into mine. Refer to the "runs like a <blankity-blank>".

I have both a 99 and a 00. Both are awesome trucks. Working on making the 00 awsome-er.

Your truck won't rev over 2k rpm because something is wrong. FORScan will tell you.

That thing about "Motorcraft for all sensors and a lot of other things" - pay attention.

Otherwise, an easy vehicle to work on and will last a few more million miles.

 

[Hollow6]

Also keep in mind that with these trucks you are interviewing the previous owner for their maintenance habits as much as you are examining the vehicle.

Forscan Lite + a good blue tooth adapter is the cheapest/most effective way to dig into these truck’s brains.

‎FORScan Lite - for Ford, Mazda

‎FORScan Lite application was developed specially for a computer diagnostics of Ford, Mazda, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles. Supported adapters: - OBDLink MX+ (recommended) - vLinker FD BLE (recommended) - other ELM327-compatible WiFi or BLE adapter (not recommended). Attention: this application...

apps.apple.com

now to the mechanical

1) Check for oil leaks

2) if it’s a long crank, is it turning slow or fast when you crank it? Hard to tell if you haven’t been around these trucks much, but kinda have to determine that. Might throw some jumper cables on it to see if some extra amperage helps it go faster. Might be all you need is to clean the terminals, or it may need new batteries (group 65 batteries ain’t cheap)

3) if you determine the cranking is adequate, look at the ICP and IPR duty cycle on forscan. If they come up to pressure quickly while the truck is cranking quickly then you’re set. If not then see number 1. Look deep into the truck’s valley.

If it’s had wiring worked on and it doesn’t look clean and well done, I’d probably run away.

Has the trans been worked on? At 340k it could be on its last legs if it’s the OEM unit. If it’s been rebuilt, how has the new unit been maintained?


These trucks are great, and they can be super reliable while still making good power. They’re not gonna be a crazy 2000 hp race truck or whatever but they can make enough power to pull anything you want, and still put a smile on your face while doing it. Listen to the people here (not me, I’m an idiot), they know their stuff.

That's all I want lmao I want to tow my project car to the track but reliably I'm not looking to race but I want her running nice but I was looking at used engines and it still would be cheaper to swap another engine in before looking at buying another truck looks pretty simple and the bed and body is in good condition minimal rust and he just installed new leaf springs but yes I don't think the 5-year-old wiring is an engine bay but I feel like it just might be a little bit in the cabin but we'll see I have a video I don't know how to upload it on here if anybody knows

 

[Hollow6]

Hey I fixed the OBD2 port it was a fuse and I scanned the car here are the codes

Welcome to PSN!

If you are willing to spend the time, a straight swap for a vehicle you don't use is an awesome price. I am prejudiced - I bought a 99 for $1800 and built it with guidance and suggestions from this forum. She runs like a <blankity-blank>!

1. Get FORScan scanning software for Fords (free) and an OBDII reader. Greatest troubleshooting tool ever! I do not have financial interest in this tool. I just love it.
$12 for the 1-year PC license (not necc) and $7 for the android. OBDII reader $20-$60.

2. DO NOT throw parts at it . . . if you must, then make them Motorcraft parts. Ford diesels are quite particular about their sensors.

3. Come back with the codes. Lots and lots of smart people here!

A. You can get wiring diagrams for the 2000 F350 from Ebay for $4. The guy will email them to you.

B. Be prepared to spend a little money on it to bring it "around". I could have spent just 10k, but . . . I'm found of power, so I put some real money into mine. Refer to the "runs like a <blankity-blank>".

I have both a 99 and a 00. Both are awesome trucks. Working on making the 00 awsome-er.

Your truck won't rev over 2k rpm because something is wrong. FORScan will tell you.

That thing about "Motorcraft for all sensors and a lot of other things" - pay attention.

Otherwise, an easy vehicle to work on and will last a few more million miles.

 

[Hollow6]

I believe it's a boost leak and maybe some injector seals

 

[Hendy]

You may be right about the boost leak but those ICP codes worry me, I will try to find some pinpoint tests for you, We'll also see if @Jax or @Patrick Feeley has those

 

[Patrick Feeley]

Have the codes been cleared and these come back, OR were they aleady there? Cheers!

 

[Hollow6]

Have the codes been cleared and these come back, OR were they aleady there? Cheers!

i cleared and read

 

[Hollow6]

If it helps the ipr hovers at around 64% and the icp bounces from .2000 to .24000

 

[Patrick Feeley]

Here are the Introduction and PinPoint Tests for both the ICP and IPR. Cheers!

 

[Jax]

I believe it's a boost leak and maybe some injector seals

Could be the HPOP if it is the original, but I would look at the Injector Control Pressure (ICP) Sensor and wiring first.

Ford wiring can break inside the very strong insulation. Gently flex the plug wiring and see if there are any sharp bends.

I got the same codes for the ICP as you have, from a piece of chinese crap ICP. Then again, I had just accidently broken the ICP (wrench slip) so I used the Chinese crap until my motorcraft could come in.

 

[Jax]

If it helps the ipr hovers at around 64% and the icp bounces from .2000 to .24000

Check for oil in the valley between the heads. Check for oil that "looks like" rear main seal. Any one of those connections (oil hoses, plugs, ICP Sensor) could be leaking oil.

Also check the fuel filter. Is it black? You may have oil leaks on the infectors. That will turn the return fuel black, which will cycle from the tank back into the fuel filter.

I hate to do this to you, but read my 99's Project thread Jax' 99 F350 7.3L Truck rebuild . . . .

That is the absolute WORST that can happen. My truck is an Arizona truck so rust at a minimum. Still, had I not been Power Hungry, it could have all be done for $10k-12k.

 

[Realdann]

Plug in the block heater for 2 hours and then do a cold morning start. If it starts right up then that can signal an issue the glow plugs.
A mechanical 4000 psi hydraulic gauge installed in one of the head oil rail plugs will give you some great insight. You will need the gauge, 4' of 1/4'' JIC female to JIC female hydraulic hose. 1/4'' NPT pipe coupler, 1/4'' NPT male to JIC male adapter to connect gauge to hose. #4 Oring Boss male to male JIC to connect hose to the head.
HPOP Idle pressure should be 700 psi. Driving around pressure somewhere around 1800 psi and higher pressures as engine load increases as determined by the tune.