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Discussion Starter #1
It's a 2006 F-350 dually,crew cab,4x4,lariate nice looking truck inside and out.has 330000 miles has blowby at idle but won't nock cap off.owner has a oil cooler ball joints,tie rods,caliper and other stuff new in boxes.truck has a 3"x3" monitor on dash front,brand new looking sct runner,all aluminum radiator has sticker says high performance,new resouvor,cold air intake,new aluminum tool box.
*Truck starts right up
*Has raw fuel out tail pipe
*Said had egr cooler delete welded plugs,still has egr bolted down and plugged in.
*Temp and gauges read ok
*From cold air intake,and at exhaust pipe behind pass side-i hear the turbo whine loud as hell,intake side and back at tail pipe.
Price 6500.00 cash I get everything and it drives
If it had egr delegate the EGR valve should be unplugged right?
Said he'd new head gasket and arp studs put in and same time radiator,coolant resouvor new to work done same time.
Stop driving truck because oil temp would rise above coolant temp only when he pulled his track loader.oil cooler new in box said sc,or something like that 2 letters I forget.
I also rebuild engines cobras Jeep's jet skis atv I can turn wrenches 30x30 building just for this.
What do you guys think,don't hold back let me have anything on you nind
 

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If the EGR cooler was plugged, they'll leave the valve in there and plugged in. It'll look factory.

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok that's good then,I'm thinking injector,bad but not missing can't feel it anyway.i did do the pass side battery turn over test turned over evenly without a skip.
 

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Think about it this way; At $6500, if it needs a new motor, you'll be in $18,000 or so. Does that work for you?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes you mean 8000.00 right all I have to buy is parts to rebuild.i just wanted some feed back from everybody I already made the deal so it's a done deal.i always do this,you guys may catch something I missed.engine runs fine,I can install injectors when I do the oil cooler.
 

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How far apart are the oil & coolant temps? The oil is always going to be higher. 15 degrees or less I wouldn't change it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
He said only when towing 14000 lbs gooseneck and trackloader temp went 20-25 over so he stopped driving it.he normal driving with no trailer temp stays good.he said not to tow but he has oil cooler new in box it's not a dorman it had 2 letters like sc or rc can't remember.
 

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Bad mods equals bad work, you are going to be in more than 8000
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm thinking bad injector or two truck starts and runs perfect.all temps are good,truck has a monitor velcroed to front dash driver's side temps good there.he said raw fuel was an injector bad I can agree that might be it.im thinking truck has 5" exhaust maybe,had a chrome tip at the end.truck idles perfect no fuel in oil coolant perfect color.why you think more than 8000 please tell me what your thinking
 

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Here are my thoughts on some of the items you mentioned...

has blowby at idle but won't nock cap off
If it has blowby at idle, it has even more blowby under load. How much is the question. Is it acceptable still? Too far? If you could do a compression test you could have a better idea, but I doubt that will happen before you buy, so it's a guessing game. These do have some blowby naturally anyway, so if you're right that it's excessive, you know you're looking at a piston and ring job. Along with that you're going to have other expenses such as getting heads checked, decked, etc. So keep that in mind.

owner has a oil cooler ball joints,tie rods,caliper and other stuff new in boxes.truck has a 3"x3" monitor on dash front,brand new looking sct runner,all aluminum radiator has sticker says high performance,new resouvor,cold air intake,new aluminum tool box.
Did he have all these parts because he was going to do some preventive maintenance on it soon or does it need the ball joints, tie rods, etc? BTW, if you get the truck get rid of that cold air intake. Does nothing for power for fuel efficiency, and just reduces the effectiveness of air filtration. Does make the motor sound louder though! lol

*Has raw fuel out tail pipe
This could be a bad injector or a bad seal on an injector.

*Said had egr cooler delete welded plugs,still has egr bolted down and plugged in.
Totally normal, but if you buy it and ever tear it down, I would inspect the welds and consider a delete if allowed in your area.

*Temp and gauges read ok
Make sure temp gauges all read within a couple degrees of each other when the engine is cold and has not been started in about 10 hours. Same goes for pressure sensors. All should be at zero and/or atmospheric pressure (14.7PSI at sea level on a perfect day....will vary based on weather and altitude)

Said he'd new head gasket and arp studs put in and same time radiator,coolant resouvor new to work done same time.
Stop driving truck because oil temp would rise above coolant temp only when he pulled his track loader.oil cooler new in box said sc,or something like that 2 letters I forget.
I also rebuild engines cobras Jeep's jet skis atv I can turn wrenches 30x30 building just for this.
What do you guys think,don't hold back let me have anything on you nind
Can easily tell if it has studs or not. Take a look at the top of the head just to the outside of the valve cover. If it has bolts you will see bolt heads. If it has studs you will see a 12 point nut on a threaded stud. This doesn't necessarily mean the head gasket ob was done right, but is a good sign. Only way to know if head gaskets are good is to monitor the pressure in the cooling system....if he'll let you. Basically you install a pressure gauge into the system using a T in the small hose that goes from radiator to the degas bottle. Get engine up to temp, carefully bleed off pressure from degas bottle, tighten cap and drive while watching the gauge (you'll need a long hose to reach the cab). If it spikes up and down when you go WOT, you have really compromised gaskets. If it goes up gradually you may not have had it fully up to temp. Bleed off and try again. If it keeps doing it you still have bad gaskets, but they're only just beginning to go. If, however, there is no rise in pressure, you have good gaskets.

If his oil temps were 20-25 above the coolant while pulling a 14,000lb gooseneck, I wouldn't be at all worried, but I would recommend checking the temp difference properly. Again with it fully up to temp, and completely unloaded, drive at 55MPH for 20 minutes on relatively flat road. Should not go above 15 degrees difference. And yes, the actual Ford spec is at 55. If you have to drive at 65 or 75, just take into account that oil temps will rise accordingly, but that's normal. The higher your speed, the bigger the difference in temps.

Price 6500.00 cash I get everything and it drives
Have you checked codes? Always check codes on a 6.0 when looking to buy one.

Assuming it has no codes (if it does then that's an additional item to contend with), if you're as comfortable as you say you are with turning wrenches, are willing to learn, and realize you WILL be putting some money into this, I would offer him 5000 and be willing to settle on about 5800. He obviously knows there's stuff wrong with it otherwise it wouldn't be priced that low. You won't need a new engine, but it's possible you'll need to do some work. Along with any work on this engine comes more work....ie you find something else wrong, or because of its design and failings you will want to change out a part while you have it torn down "just in case". If you have the money, have the money to fix and mod it properly, and don't mind being under the hood a bunch for various fixes and upkeep, I'd definitely consider it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok I pulled codes-po671,po12f(injector #1) oil temp coolant temp out of range-so needs oil cooler.
Here is a list of new parts in boxes and bags mostly OEM
Thermostats gasket,2glow plugs,5boxes new Moog ball joints,4 Moog joints front halfshafts,tie rods 2,oil cooler skp brand 90.00 junk,drive shaft carrier barring,tranny filter,blue spring kit,exterior tranny filter,most of these parts are Moog motercraft
Engine does not have enough blowby to blow cap off fill tube,I'm going to perform a compression test on all 8 cylinders and see what kind of shape rings are in.
I noticed the turbo barking when driving truck home,I'm going to rebuild or clean the turbo.i could buy a OEM injector and put a Ford OEM oil cooler in if compression test looks ok,not sure what to do yet-i can buy a complete OEM rebuild kit off eBay for 2400.00+machine shop cost.
What do you guys think?
 

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Just my two cents. At 330k, I'd be looking for another engine to rebuild. This is not a 7.3. Your going to spend some serious money once you break her open. Sounds like someone has been inside her before. That could be good and it could be bad. I wish you the best of luck. The 18k mentioned earlier is about where your going to be when it's all said and done.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I agree I already found a 2004 F-250 4x4 with 220000 miles original owner company truck,he says high pressure pump out he's not messing with it.im going to buy it Sunday for 1500.00 the whole truck+ high pressure pump.when pump went out that's when they stopped driving it and bought pump no time to mess with it.he said you come and get it this weekend 1500.00.i didn't think you could get a f250 crew cab 4x4 full bed in 04?my brother has a 2006 F-250 he's messing with the tranny right now bought the cylinoids now to put in his me and him are splitting the cost I want 6.0 he wants 5speed auto.
I will update after compression test,
Seeing 2glow plugs brand new in a Ford bag is making me think maybe 2are broken can they break?
 

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IMO the only HPOP worth installing in an 03 or 04 is the Dieselsite upgraded HPOP (slightly higher than stock Adrenaline).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update on engine-pulled egr out and it is wet,fells like black mud.started truck with no EGR valve installed,I feel air exiting EGR valve hole.pulled oil filter cap everything good their,stand pipe good not melted.
Ok so I was told EGR cooler was welded shut both ends on exhaust side,but feel air going through when started with no EGR valve installed?
Truck is not smoking very much at all,while driving.i even mashed it to the floor and very little smoke.smokes a little only when leaving at a full stop or under hard excelleration,not much smoking at all though.
So im going to do a EGR delete,and OEM oil cooler install,clean and check turbo,and see what happens.
Did not buy other engine,without seeing it run decided to hold off for awhile on buying another engine.
Only code coming back after clearing codes is glow plug #1 cylinder.
 

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The intake manifold will be venting to the air with the EGR valve removed .....
 

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So, it sounds like you went ahead and bought the truck with 330k?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok everybody I have found problems with this truck.
EGR cooler leaking,EGR delete bought
Turbo needs rebuilt,ordered KC turbo 10 blade kit with stainless steel reluctor ring.
Turbo was stuck in wide open position,this explains no power leaving stop signs
Bought a brand new Ford oil cooler,oil pressure sensor,oil temp sensor.
This should fix the truck,I hope it does anyway I will update if I find more problems.
 

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Ok everybody I have found problems with this truck.
EGR cooler leaking,EGR delete bought
Turbo needs rebuilt,ordered KC turbo 10 blade kit with stainless steel reluctor ring.
Turbo was stuck in wide open position,this explains no power leaving stop signs
Bought a brand new Ford oil cooler,oil pressure sensor,oil temp sensor.
This should fix the truck,I hope it does anyway I will update if I find more problems.
From what I understand, you'd be better off buying a new EGR cooler and closing off the inlet and outlets or just going with a BPD cooler.

The delete kits all have issues too.

Just my two cents.. good luck.

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Discussion Starter #20
I agree totally,EGR delete kits are a problem my old cooler was cracked and found this kit at a diesel shop near by.in the very near future I'm going to buy an OEM cooler and weld plugs in and install at later date so delete doesn't crack my bellows on stock y pipes.im mainly wanting to see how this truck is going to run for now.i just purchased truck and at 330000 trying to see how good the engine will be.today I have to remove oil filter housing and clean all oil off engine for intake removal.i think they put China oil cooler in the truck.
 
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