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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 f250 quad cab, long bed, 4x4, skid plates, Fx4 stickers on the bed. I was doing a brake job this wknd and noticed that when i spun my rear wheel on one side the other side would move in the other direction. This would seem to indicate open differential rather than a limited slip. If its an open diff, is my truck not a real fx4?
 

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don't play well w others
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4x4 means front and rear axle are driven. Front axle is probably open too

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You need to check your axle tag to see just what you have, if the tag is missing then the door jamb sticker but even then that doesn't guarantee that what's there now hasn't been replaced on a 20 year old truck.

The front has always been a open diff, I have never seen a limited slip one from the factory, but then again on a 20 year old truck anything is possible.
 

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My 350 was open rear. Had a true trac put in. Works great.

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Yup, and even if it came from the factory with one, a previous owner could've replaced it with an open diff. You never know with a 20 year old truck
 

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Wheen I ordered my 89 f350 ordered limitid slip both axles.
Made for some interesting situations. Truck would go straight when you definately didn't want it too.
Tough to get it stuck. Not sure I would equip another one like that again.

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Discussion Starter #7
Id like to try and find a ford factory E Locker from a newer truck at the junkyard to swap in. I dont really "wheel" my truck like i do with my jeep but i do take my truck on a lot of forestry roads.
 

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I have driven my truck for thousands of miles on Forest Service and BLM lands and all I have ever used has been 4 wheel drive and chains at times.

I'm sure knowing the newer trucks that somehow they incorporated the locking diff with the PCM to control it

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Discussion Starter #9
I found a youtube video of someone putting a ford factory locker into an old sterling 10.5. He wired it up the same way one would wire up auxilary lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My local wheeling spot is Johnson Valley ohv. Im worried about getting stuck in the sand when im towing my jeep out to camp.
The LKQ pick a parts near my seldom put newer trucks in the yard. Instead they strip used parts and sell them online for a lot more. But if i do find a locker in the yard itll only be like $50!
 

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Once again, need to see what your axle code is.
Could just be worn out, but you can rebuild it.

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You need to check your axle tag to see just what you have, if the tag is missing then the door jamb sticker but even then that doesn't guarantee that what's there now hasn't been replaced on a 20 year old truck.

The front has always been a open diff, I have never seen a limited slip one from the factory, but then again on a 20 year old truck anything is possible.
Wheen I ordered my 89 f350 ordered limitid slip both axles.
Made for some interesting situations. Truck would go straight when you definately didn't want it too.
Tough to get it stuck. Not sure I would equip another one like that again.

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It does make for a good setup to keep from getting stuck but they DO NOT like turning in low traction situations. I have a 1 Ton Dodge, don't fuse at me for posting this on a Ford site but when it comes to drive axles, makes no difference what brand they are, in fact there are some components interchange in the 4x4 world, Ford Chevy and Dodge and even back when Jeep was making real pickups. Any way my Dodge has a Power Trac soft locker in the Dana 60 front with the Dana 70 power trac posi, on icy roads in rear wheel drive it does pretty good as long as you maintain reasonable driving efforts. I could navigate with nibble actions in all wheel drive as along as used caution and kept speed down. Since the truck is equipped with the old NP205 T-case, I removed the detents between the shift shafts and thereby converted the system to a selectable axle, meaning I can run in rear drive or front only drive or all wheel drive and also have high and low range, with the manual trans, 10 speeds forward and 2 reverse. MUST be conscious that if I use 4x4 both axles are in the same range,not too hard to do, just be sure since there are now 3 shifters in cab both T-case levers are either forward or back together or one is in the middle while the other is in gear. Most 4x have a 1 % difference from front to rear actual drive ratio so when in 4x the front tends to pull slightly faster then the rear to prevent plowing the front giving ever so little lift to the front tires and since the rear should follow the front, with open differentials they will go into turns nicely but we all the tire that slips first gets more of the power which doesn't do much good for moving in mud or snow. Competition boggers use this setup and run slightly large front tire diameter to gain even more front pull over rear for improved steering and front lift, or use wide split in ratios and big differences in tire diameter. Math tables required. Best practice is to go as far as you can in 2x then use the 4x to back yourself out and find a different way or forget going forward into where it takes another 4x or even 2 -4x to get you out. Got myself into a few places it took 3 -4x with old tires between chain sections and several hard hits on extract that Dodge by not using. Part time lockers are the ultimate way to go. Axles act as open differential until you need that added drive effort. They last longer and so do your tires and even give you a little extra fuel mileage. Never would I choose to run a full time 4x because that added friction will always dig into your fuel, not even a newer model vehicle, even when they try to tell you they are safer to drive. One day when I don't have to count my nickels I will pull my Posi and my soft locker and install part time lockers and one of you guys can by my old parts and to cobble your broken drivers and cheap out till you learn the right way to do it. It just isn't fun any more to have to pull a rear carrier every 30k or what ever you do get from the clutches before it goes from a posi to an open unit because there is no lining left on the plates and the gear oil is all burnt and polluted and the seals and bearings are trashed from the metal fillings and the tires are squacking when you go around a turn on hot asphalt. $500 a pair on my rig every time I need to replace rubber on single wheel rear 1 ton. No that isn't high but not cheap either. Keep your receipts and think about it and realize part time locker even though cost more to install, it's still cheaper in the end!
 

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Forgot to mention that with the selectable axle setup if something breaks on any corner, it isn't a big deal to simply disengage the axle that has failed and continue out of the situation and get where it can be repaired. Have done that a couple of times an account of a U-joint failure. Simply remove the bad drive shaft and proceed to the nearest parts house for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Im definately going with a locker over a limited slip. If i cant find a cheap elocker, ill put in a detroit or grizzly
 
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