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Discussion Starter #1
Hey y’all. I looked at a truck today that I’m considering buying. Over the phone the guy said it was fully Bulletproofed he wants $13,000. The truck is a silver 2006 F-250 4x4 it’s cloth interior but has a lot of nice features that my old 97 F250 sure doesn’t have. When I got there the truck looked beautiful but I’m not sure how I feel. It’s got a 5” exhaust with an 8” tip that’s axle dumped and it’s got a pretty expensive tuner on it. He told me it’s had the EGR delete, sinister diesel coolant filter, sinister diesel injectors (stock size) new turbo with wicked wheel, some stuff done with the oil cooler, and a few other things I’m forgetting I’m sure. The truck felt like it didn’t skip a beat and had loads of power. However it was NOT Studded. He said that the ford dealer he bought it from had replaced the head bolts with better ones, which is why he didn’t bother with them. He has receipts for all the work done to it. I’ve never spent more that $5,000 on a truck and I’m very uneasy about spending that kind of money, but I really like the truck. I’ve herd that the 05-07 6.0s were better as long as you don’t put a hot tune on them. What I’m saying is the Axle dump, tuner, and bigger wheels and tires worry me a bit. Am I over thinking or not? Any input would be much appreciated! Truck has 187,000 miles on it. He bought it with 86,000 miles.


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"resident smarty pants"
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There never were "better 6.0L head bolts".

That is just BS.
 
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Where are you located? What type of body is this truck?
So far, from what you have said $13k is a little steep, but not unheard of.
A tuner doesn't mean a "big tune". There is nothing wrong with a proper tune on a non-studded truck, as long as the tune isn't for a studded truck, it should be OK.
Big tires and lift kits can be reversed, if you want/need to. You can also sell the tires, wheels and lift once removed.
While Sinister Diesel isn't a favorite company around here, your not buying the parts, so, nothing wrong there. The 5" exhaust isn't a bad thing, not an upgrade over a 4", but definitely better than the stock exhaust. You can "fix" the axle dump and toss that stupid "tip" out for fairly cheap.
I love my 06. Even with the few problems I've had, I'm still glad I own it. I think these trucks are pretty easy to work on and, if you read the stickies in the 6.0 section and watch Diesel Tech Ron YouTube vids, you'll be fairly knowledgeable on these trucks.
 

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IMO the sinister oil cooler is a problem waiting to happen. The sinister injectors may be a future problem also. As a company, they have a reputation for parts being on the "cheap side".

Depending on the tune, the transmission may or may not be reliable long term.

The price seems high to me.

Get a scan tool (HIGHLY recommend ForScan Lite on a smartphone with a BAFX adapter). ForScan reads codes thoroughly and can retrieve critical engine data.

Of the data that you can get with ForScan is oil and coolant temperature data. This is important.

Make sure it is STONE COLD when you go to look at it and test drive it (oil and coolant at ambient temperatures). You need to see how it starts when cold.

After you drive it, you need to start it when hot. Looking at the high pressure oil system when doing a hot start (and at hot idle) is important.

There is more ...... the thread linked below should help:
 

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I paid 13,800 for a nice one owner 06 last year. I love the truck & figured if it ended up needing studs I would address that. I had to address that. Personally in hind sight, I should have paid a little more for a nice one that was studded already. Mine is also a lariat for comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here’s an update. Ran a car fax and he is the second owner. The truck is from Texas. I called him because the truck is 2 and a half hours away (where my grandfather lives) and he said the best he could do was $12,000. The thing is in good shape. I do really like it I’m just worried is all. When I first got there to look at it, it was cold. After driving it I started it again and it started fine as well. I live in middle TN and the prices range from $8,000-$19,000 for the 6.0s. I really like how it drove just have a weird feeling about it. I told him I’d call him Monday with my decision. Really want to do my research on it.


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You have a very detailed thread to read through to properly look at a used 6.0L.

Use that to purchase, not how something looks.

We are telling you that you could get bit by this decision, and with the 6.0L, it could be many thousands you have to spend later. I'll repeat - "better head bolts" is a big red flag. So is the statement that it "is fully bulletproofed".
 
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You have a very detailed thread to read through to properly look at a used 6.0L.

Use that to purchase, not how something looks.

We are telling you that you could get bit by this decision, and with the 6.0L, it could be many thousands you have to spend later. I'll repeat - "better head bolts" is a big red flag. So is the statement that it "is fully bulletproofed".
I understand that and I appreciate it. I wanted to show what the truck looked like just to put a face with the name so to speak.

When he was talking about the head bolts he was saying that’s what ford told him. I did not know if that was a thing which is why I mentioned it. I learned that it was not.

He said when he took it in to be “Bulletproofed” he didn’t bother with the head bolts and they gave him the tune for his truck.

I believe I’ll go with my gut and pass on this truck. Thank you all!


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Really, what I am saying is that it takes work to find a good 6.0L. You need a scan tool to look at key variables when starting and when test driving. You need to learn what to look for (ECT, EOT, EOT-ECT, ICP, IPR %, FICM Voltages, Boost, VGT %, Degas bottle coolant pressure etc). Without that effort put into the search, you could get lucky or you could get bit. The forums are full of threads from people getting stuck with $5k to $10k repair bills soon after purchasing a used 6.0L.
 

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I've got a fully documented '07 KR LWB Dually w/176k and I wouldn't dream of selling it for that price. Good trucks are worth it. There's gotta be something up with that deal. He's gotta be trying to unload it. If it was as good of a truck as he says it is he'd be much higher.

Not having documentation from a respectable shop would be a big turn off for me. Fire-ringed heads, etc is a great investment and if you were in there why wouldn't you do it? Makes no sense.

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I've got a fully documented '07 KR LWB Dually w/176k and I wouldn't dream of selling it for that price. Good trucks are worth it. There's gotta be something up with that deal. He's gotta be trying to unload it. If it was as good of a truck as he says it is he'd be much higher.

Not having documentation from a respectable shop would be a big turn off for me. Fire-ringed heads, etc is a great investment and if you were in there why wouldn't you do it? Makes no sense.

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It’s got a dent in the door and grunt bumper. He said he wants to sell it to get a Cummins that’s at a dealer ship down the road. I told him $11,000 and I’d get it tomorrow. I doubt he’d take it but I figured if he did I’d drive it home and drop it off at this shop that’s pretty reputable around here and just have it gone through and studded. We’ll see


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You can't buy a 6.0 with out using a scan tool and going through it, sorry. Papers help, studs help, egr delete helps, oem injectors help, FICM repair helps, scan tool helps, there's a few more and your need to check boxes and not leave them empty. No matter what diesel it is, getting bit sucks and is costly. I put 16k in my engine alone in 2015 (bought truck in 2013) but it's a one and done ordeal. Now I am starting to work on the other components now finally to complete the bulletproof. (Alternator FICM coolant etc)

Don't let the truck make you purchase it, I have driven the other trucks out there and the Ford chassis is leaps ahead of anything else, so it will seem like a way better deal because of that.

I will say that a 6.0 even at factory power is awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You can't buy a 6.0 with out using a scan tool and going through it, sorry. Papers help, studs help, egr delete helps, oem injectors help, FICM repair helps, scan tool helps, there's a few more and your need to check boxes and not leave them empty. No matter what diesel it is, getting bit sucks and is costly. I put 16k in my engine alone in 2015 (bought truck in 2013) but it's a one and done ordeal. Now I am starting to work on the other components now finally to complete the bulletproof. (Alternator FICM coolant etc)

Don't let the truck make you purchase it, I have driven the other trucks out there and the Ford chassis is leaps ahead of anything else, so it will seem like a way better deal because of that.

I will say that a 6.0 even at factory power is awesome.
Yes sir. I already have the torque pro app that costed me $5 a few years ago I just used it for scanning codes and other stuff with the trucks we use for my business. I’m going to look at a 05 Lariet crew cab that looks like it’s in beautiful shape tomorrow. I’ll be doing my research tonight to see if I can use this app or if I should get one of the other ones the guys were talking about further up in the trend. This truck has 236k on it and it’s another “Bulletproofed” one from a dealership same price. We’ll see how it goes.


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There is stuff you left off of that list. One of the first things you need to do is to verify that the pressure and temperature sensors are reasonably accurate. So you see a 15 degree differential ..... how do you know that one sensor is not reading off? So you see too high of a boost value. Maybe that isn't a correct number.
 
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^ key on engine off baro, map, and exhaust back pressure should read the same. If I recall correctly

I have been out of the community for a couple years do I may be a little off here and I haven't read the link posted above probably full of good info.

I'm of the thought you shouldn't boost above 20 psi normally and 25 max only once in awhile, and the factory power level is completely fine. One of my favorite tests is to power brake the truck to 20 psi boost, if there's a problem it can show up there. Factory I think you can build to 3900 - 4000 on the hpop and you will be getting a high number with this test.

Also turn the HVAC fan on vent high, and shift the 4x4 and see if it holds the vent or goes to defrost. This just check the vac pump system, easy fixes but something that might have to be done.
 

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If you're of the type who likes to work on things and make it your own, you could always go the route my buddy did/does. He goes to auctions, finds the ones which are known to have blown head gaskets, and buys them for cheap because no one wants to deal with that. He fixes em up right and sells them for a modest profit. He also built his '06 that way and has kept it as his own.
 
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