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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm converting my 97 E4od to ZF.
I've got the E4od on the ground, SBC set up bolted in. I have all the parts to do the rest of it but my questions are as follows:

1. How on earth do I remove the pedal box? I've removed the steering rag joint and that's still not enough room.

2. Where does the t-case linkage bolt onto the ZF5?

3. How the F does the steering column trim come off? I got the bottom piece out but it seems the ignition assembly needs to come off for the top piece? Then the shifter has to be removed?

4. On a single cab long bed, do the seats have to be removed to pull the carpet back far enough to get the floor hump out?

I think that covers it.

Thanks!
 

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there should be 2 threaded holes on the driver side of the tranny for the t case shifter. And I would take out the carpet and seats just for ease of access when putting the new tranny in. With the hump off it gives you a lot more room to work. Glad to hear another OBS guy is putting the man stick into their truck.
 

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I'm getting ready to do the same swap and I was just thinking about the pedal box yesterday. I don't know how in the hell the auto one is going to come out let alone the manual one going in!
 

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So I'm converting my 97 E4od to ZF.
I've got the E4od on the ground, SBC set up bolted in. I have all the parts to do the rest of it but my questions are as follows:

1. How on earth do I remove the pedal box? I've removed the steering rag joint and that's still not enough room.

2. Where does the t-case linkage bolt onto the ZF5?

3. How the F does the steering column trim come off? I got the bottom piece out but it seems the ignition assembly needs to come off for the top piece? Then the shifter has to be removed?

4. On a single cab long bed, do the seats have to be removed to pull the carpet back far enough to get the floor hump out?

I think that covers it.

Thanks!
1. Drop the entire steering column makes a lot more room up in there (see #3)

2. It bolts on the side, there are several brackets from Ford, mine had all the trans that it fit stamped on it. You will also have to remove the t-case linkage complete measure, cut and weld the old linkage. (I think I took 5 inches out of mine)

3. You are correct the ignitions switch has to come out. Put your key turn it to run, look on the bottom of the switch for an area that looks like a silver "bb" push it in with a punch or small screwdriver and pull out on the key assembly. Pay attention to the little black plastic piece with the brass contact on it. It has to go back in or your key chime will stay on.

4. Sorry, I can't help on this one, but it looks like someone already chimed in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Another thing, there was this thick spacer plate between the crankshaft and flexplate. I assume I toss that?
 

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That is not correct, the adapter plate is the exact same. However, I think the op is referring to the spacer between the flex plate and crank and yes it comes out and the new flywheel bolts directly to the crank.
 

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There is a spacer behind the flex plate it has to come off. The flywheel is a lot thicker than the flex plate

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
When I removed the steering column, I noticed later that the speedometer was pegged. The battery has been disconnected since the start. Thoughts?
 

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i just done the swap the bellhousing adapters are the same, the flywheel bolts directly to the crank,pull the seat life will be easieir,pull the steering column and e brake assem for the pedals turn the key to the acc position and stick a pick in the small hole..... and by the way your gonna love that hand shaker compared to the slush box
 

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mike97f350 is correct the flywheel is way thicker but once the spacer behind the crank is gone your good to go i had a auto and manual adpter both identical
 
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