[boggerr]

So at what Temp. does the stock up-pipes melt.

 

[smorris]

Has to be above 1,800, cause towing some hills last year we saw at least that for short periods.

Found this...
http://www.itwinsulation.com/Data_Sheets/7.40 MELTING POINT.pdf

They are stainless..right?

 

[boggerr]

Stock uppies are just regular metal,exhaust piping.
My R/S pipe started to melt at the manifold,hopefully it is from the track and not when im on the highway.I think im going to start being a gauge whore and hook up another pyro on the R/S manifold plus acouple other gauges.

 

[Thuglike]

oopppsss!!!

 

[389SixPack]

Stock uppies are just regular metal,exhaust piping.
My R/S pipe started to melt at the manifold,hopefully it is from the track and not when im on the highway.I think im going to start being a gauge whore and hook up another pyro on the R/S manifold plus acouple other gauges.

Yep, I have egt on both sides - never know. From right to left they generally run within 40 degrees of one another. Hope it's not too bad. I'll be following you down tomorrow just incase.

 

[boggerr]

Im hoping to get it on the dyno then swap everything out maybe there will be time to get on the track........see you tomorrow Nigel.


Hey Thuggy, I think it melted when i was trying too keep up with you

 

[Fast_Ashley]

Stock uppies are just regular metal,exhaust piping.
My R/S pipe started to melt at the manifold,hopefully it is from the track and not when im on the highway.I think im going to start being a gauge whore and hook up another pyro on the R/S manifold plus acouple other gauges.

Isn't Joe the resident guage whore???:swordfight:

 

[389SixPack]

Isn't Joe the resident guage whore???:swordfight:

I think I got him beat.

 

[Charles]

Mine melted and I was running in the 1750-1800 degree range for bursts of no longer than 40 seconds.

They both got all wrinkly and warped near the manifold on each side. Pretty much just wadded them up at the bottoms. Also cracked the passenger's side manifold between 3 and 5 as well as sheared the rearmost bolt on the driver's side.

My up-pipes are now 304 SS from DI and my manifolds are internally (not externallly) ceramic coated to keep the heat out of the part.

Then once I added the second charger even on a 3, 4 5 pull out to 110 or so mph I have yet to register anything over 1400.

LOL

 

[Haul_n_horses2]

Mine melted and I was running in the 1750-1800 degree range for bursts of no longer than 40 seconds.

They both got all wrinkly and warped near the manifold on each side. Pretty much just wadded them up at the bottoms. Also cracked the passenger's side manifold between 3 and 5 as well as sheared the rearmost bolt on the driver's side.

Everybody is saying they are melting but what you describe sounds like they are expanding due to the heat and they are wrinkling/collapsing (like corrugated cardboard). I heard it suggested that this might be due to doughnuts that do not allow the pipes to slip, ie. they are fixed on both ends and when HOT can only expand and collapse as you have described. Is it possible that in an attempt to eliminate leaks at the doughnuts, we have created this problem with the up pipes? No flame intended. Just a crazy hypothesis.

 

[smorris]

Sounds reasonable to me. I just thought they were stainless. I know we have run mine at over 1800 for at least ten minutes at the time, and no problems?? Not saying I'd recomend it, but ......
But they also were leakers. On a good downhill run it would cool enough to really leak bad when you get back on the gas, till they got some heat in them. So, if they're regular mild stell, then how do they stand the heat as good as they do? A turbo with an inconel wheel is weaker than an uppipe made of mild steel? Always hearing of burned up turbos, and not much talk of uppipe failure. You SURE they are reg. steel? I was told the stock exhaust was plain old muffler pipe....NOT! We tried to torch out the stock downpipe , and it is def. some grade of stainless, or at least coated. It doesnt cut, it blows out.
So, are they coated or what?

 

[gregrob]

Sounds reasonable to me. I just thought they were stainless. I know we have run mine at over 1800 for at least ten minutes at the time, and no problems?? Not saying I'd recomend it, but ......
But they also were leakers. On a good downhill run it would cool enough to really leak bad when you get back on the gas, till they got some heat in them. So, if they're regular mild stell, then how do they stand the heat as good as they do? A turbo with an inconel wheel is weaker than an uppipe made of mild steel? Always hearing of burned up turbos, and not much talk of uppipe failure. You SURE they are reg. steel? I was told the stock exhaust was plain old muffler pipe....NOT! We tried to torch out the stock downpipe , and it is def. some grade of stainless, or at least coated. It doesnt cut, it blows out.
So, are they coated or what?

How does your engine, turbo, etc endure that?

 

[redrocket]

Elmo melted his in 'the' colossal burnout

 

[smorris]

How does your engine, turbo, etc endure that?

Pretty good so far. I dont really know for how long it was like that. I just know that after I got gauges, it was scary climbing some of those hills at wot for ten minutes at a time. I was to dumb to back out of it. I have seen the egt gauge pegged out for ten minutes solid. Bigger than stock injectors, van turbo, stock exhaust. I think the problem was the exhaust, cause after putting on the 4" it never went above 1,200. If I downshifted the egt went higher.
Everyone kept telling me that they would go down if I dropped out of OD, but they only went up. So, I towed at 2,100-2,300 rpm in OD. Climbed hills very well, just had high egt. Again, I dont recommend ANYONE doing this.
I may regret it in the future as the wear and tear shows up, but for now all is well!:ford:
Maybe my egt gauge is off by five or six hundred degrees?

 

[Haul_n_horses2]

Pretty good so far. I dont really know for how long it was like that. I just know that after I got gauges, it was scary climbing some of those hills at wot for ten minutes at a time. I was to dumb to back out of it. I have seen the egt gauge pegged out for ten minutes solid. Bigger than stock injectors, van turbo, stock exhaust. I think the problem was the exhaust, cause after putting on the 4" it never went above 1,200. If I downshifted the egt went higher.
Everyone kept telling me that they would go down if I dropped out of OD, but they only went up. So, I towed at 2,100-2,300 rpm in OD. Climbed hills very well, just had high egt. Again, I dont recommend ANYONE doing this.
I may regret it in the future as the wear and tear shows up, but for now all is well!:ford:
Maybe my egt gauge is off by five or six hundred degrees?

With that history, it will be very interesting to look at the ring lands and fuel bowl in the pistons when they come out.

 

[smorris]

Yeah, it probly has some tell tale signs.
Hopefully it'll be ok for a few more years. I plan on going through it maybe in 2010., if it lasts that long. Upgrade a few things, you know. Doesnt use any oil,very little smoke, not much blow-by. So, it should be fine for a while.
Runs great.

 

[THEDIESELMAN]

WOW pegged for 10 mins you have some big balls to do that.

 

[smorris]

Probly more like stupid balls.
I wouldnt do it again................unless a chevy passed me.:ford:.
Which is very unlikely unless he's running empty.:gun:

 

[boggerr]

If i can figure out how to post pics i would post them up but damn if i can figure it out HELP............

Never mind Danny and Greg helped me out
check here
http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=845

 

[weweld]

I melted mine in under 11 seconds and they were 304 SS