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Discussion Starter #1
'95 7.3 PSD 4x4, automatic transmission

History:

Truck died a couple of times backing out of driveway or taking off from stoplight. This happened 4-5 times over about 3 days. Then on an extended road trip, traveling 65-75mph, the WTS light would come on and immediately go off, volt gauge would twitch until GPR went off.
The engine did not die or stall, just sorta hesitated briefly. This happened 5-6 times over about 400 miles.

At the end of the trip, the ABS light came on and truck would not shift out of park. Found 50amp fuse in position 13 under hood blown. Replaced and ran fine for 1 day...during trip home after replacing fuse, cruise control worked for first time in years.

Hit a bump one day, WTS light flashed, volt gauge twitched, and ABS light came one (first time this happened in unison)....fuse 13 blown again. Got home and tried to replace fuse. Disconnected negative terminals, put in fuse and blew again as soon as I touched a cable to the post. This happened twice.

Next day I disconnected cables, removed stop/hazard lamps & bulbs, removed cargo/third brake and unplugged pigtail, unplugged connector on shift interlock solenoid. Replace fuse, connected cables (did not blow), replaced lamps, cargo/third brake, & plugged shift interlock back in, all good. Drove for 4 more days.

Next day, just the ABS light came back on when I was turning on to highway to go to work. Tried to replace fuse but blew as soon as I touched cable to post after replacing.

Got more fuses, disconnected cables, and replaced shift interlock solenoid, shift tube bushings(need it anyway), key lock cylinder, and speed control switch. Replaced fuse, hooked up cables, started and no ABS. Drove around the block....all good. Went to move truck the next day and ABS light back on at startup. Replaced VSS, brake switch, and backup sensor on tranny. Connected cables, replaced fuse, and started....no ABS light. Put in reverse to back out of driveway, dropped off "curb", truck died and ABS light back on at startup.

*not one time have the fuses on the interior panel blown: #5, 9, 13

Need help finding color of wire coming off fuse 13 and methodology for tracing down the short. Broke at the moment so taking it to shop not viable option.
 

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I had this EXACT same issue. It ended up being fuse #13 in the cab was LOOSE not blown. It was loose. It would lose connection then I would have all sorts of issues at stop lights, with bumps, or anything that caused that fuse to move around. Took a flat head screw driver bent the tab in on the fuse box and haven't had a problem for almost 2 years. Drove me nuts for 6 moths. I work nights and not having break lights was going to cause me issues! Almost took my truck to an electrical shop (hard for me to do, I work on electronics for a living).
 

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Thanks for the reply. Its certainly worth a shot, not to mention cheap and easy. I've had this truck for over 23 years and have always joked I'll be buried in it....might be soon if I can't resolve this before too much longer😁.
 

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Thanks for the reply KIB7.3. It is certainly worth a try, not to mention cheap and easy. I've had this truck over 23 years and have always joked that I'll be buried in it....if I can't figure out the source of this short, that might be soon:)
 

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Hope it helps man! I know just how frustrating issues like this can be.
 

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For the wiring you are going to need to find a Electrical Vacuum Trouble Shooting Manual (EVTM) There are usually enough differences between years that one for a 96 or 97 might not help too much. At times you can find one on Fleabay in CD form.
 

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Here is a screen shot from my EVTM on what fuse 13 from the under hood box feeds in the cab. The wire colors may be right or wrong. But what they go to should be right.
 

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