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Discussion Starter #1
Big thanks to the person that reads/answers all these questions.

First, I've decided to do a self install on the injectors (Rosewoods :thumbsup:) and wondering if anyone can share the pros/cons about mailing in your originals to "know the history on them" and then refunding a core later? Other than the obvious 'truck on the road' and 'no one holding $1200 of your hard earned $$'. If everything is rebuilt in the injector, does it really have much "history"? The 1-2 week downtime is no issue for me. My biggest fear is forgetting how it all goes back together once the injectors are ready. :confused:

Second, is there anything I need to order other than the injectors (and what they come with) that need to be replaced on the way out, gaskets thinking specifically? Valve cover gasket is resuable? I plan on putting 8 new gp's (motorcraft zd-11 - Advance, sorry) also. Is there anything I "might as well do" while I'm that far - or that I "should know" going that far? I was wondering if I should pull the HPOP (T500) out as well and have that Terminated. Is the HPOP easier to install while the injectors are out?



If there is ANY tips anyone has to doing a self injector install please offer them. I'm pretty new at any type of serious r&r. I've read about every how to I can find on the web and watched every video on youtube. That usually doesn't mean much but it gives me a drawing board. I have a (short) list of tools and some extra downtime so, what the helll..

Thanks again.
 

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What injectors are you getting? Stage 1's? If so, you don't need to mod your HPOP... It depends on what condition your stocker is in... I run 1's on my stocker just fine... It's not any easier to get to while the injectors are out vs them not being out.

As for the injectors, if you can have your truck down for the time it takes to build them, then do it and don't worry about the core charge. Jim is pretty quick especially if you set up a build date with him...

The UVC gaskets are reusable but it doesn't hurt to check them and the wiring because they do go bad, burn, crack or short on occasion.

Other than that, make sure to lube the injectors when you put them back in. Make sure you seat them. Torque them. Get the fluid out of the cylinder to prevent hydrolock. Throw back in your gp's, slap the vc's on and start cranking.
 

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Injector hold-down bolts are torqued to 120 inch-pounds (NOT foot-pounds)! I like to suck out the oil and fuel that drains into the cylinders (when the injectors are removed) with a mighty-vac. Then, after installing the injectors AND glowplugs out, I like to rotate the engine by hand (wrench on crank boly) a few revolutions. Some guys choose not to do this as it seems overkill, but it takes two minutes. Once that has been done, I'll place (no bolts) the valvecovers in place and crank it over with the starter (glowplugs still out) to get all the rest out. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. I think I'm gonna go with the 160cc's for now. I think stock hpop is fine but I know eventually I'll mod it as well. E fuel first!

I got all the torque settings for everything. Just to double check: GP's - 168 in/lbs and 13mm vc bolts to 98 in/lbs and lower retaining bolt to 120 in/lbs Any others I should know about? I'm worried about not seating them right, but "just tap with rubber mallet down until the collar slides over the upper retaining bolt" is what I'm being told lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Injector hold-down bolts are torqued to 120 inch-pounds (NOT foot-pounds)! I like to suck out the oil and fuel that drains into the cylinders (when the injectors are removed) with a mighty-vac. Then, after installing the injectors AND glowplugs out, I like to rotate the engine by hand (wrench on crank boly) a few revolutions. Some guys choose not to do this as it seems overkill, but it takes two minutes. Once that has been done, I'll place (no bolts) the valvecovers in place and crank it over with the starter (glowplugs still out) to get all the rest out. Cheers!
Thanks. I have a hand pump set up ready for the oil in the cylinders. Thanks for the last bit there. When letting it crank, what keeps it from cranking right up, no gps?
 

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Thanks. I think I'm gonna go with the 160cc's for now. I think stock hpop is fine but I know eventually I'll mod it as well. E fuel first!

I got all the torque settings for everything. Just to double check: GP's - 168 in/lbs and 13mm vc bolts to 98 in/lbs and lower retaining bolt to 120 in/lbs Any others I should know about? I'm worried about not seating them right, but "just tap with rubber mallet down until the collar slides over the upper retaining bolt" is what I'm being told lol.
I tapped them until the sound changed. It's difficult to explain, but it's like the difference of knocking on something hollow and something solid...

Thanks. I have a hand pump set up ready for the oil in the cylinders. Thanks for the last bit there. When letting it crank, what keeps it from cranking right up, no gps?
No, keeping the injectors unplugged will stop it from starting... And you only need to do this for a few seconds just long enough to get the fluid out. then put the gp's back in, plug the injectors and glow plugs in and put the valve covers back on and start your cranking cycles to start the truck...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys. I'll keep you updated. I'll probably start on them tomorrow. It's in the driveway, what will I need to do for the downtime to make sure it's ok? Just set the vc's on and bolt them down? It will be at least 3-4 days sitting out in the weather. Maybe while it's down I can make another thread with all my questions about efuel and get that up and running. :D
 

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I would just set the vc's back in place, Maybe put a bolt or two in place. Then wait for the injectors to come back...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would just set the vc's back in place, Maybe put a bolt or two in place. Then wait for the injectors to come back...
told you I'm new :pointlaugh: thanks for all the help :D
 

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Someone mentioned it, but its very important to make sure the injectors where lubed properly! When I was still working at the "stealership" we where required to soak new injectors over night before installing. Although I'm pretty sure Jim does most all of the leg work for you during the build, but make sure you aren't installing dry injectors. Also make sure your cups don't have any major dings, cuts, or burns in them. If so they need to be replaced! Ask Jim he has all the tools and cups in stock I think if you need to replace them.
 

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If you remove the cover off the heater box and vac res it will give you better access to the back ones on the pass side :) on the heater box there is 1 screw that comes in from the cab. I pull the two rear injectors first and let the oil & fuel drain into them and pump it out with a mighty vac you still get some in the other holes but not as much.

I leave the glow plugs out and crank it a few times in till I get oil pressure .less stress on the started without any compression. But put the valve covers on with a bolt or two to keep from spitting and oil fuel left in the cylinders all over the walls :)
 

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make sure you replace all orings on each injector, lube the hell out of them, the best way is do one injector at a time, orings, lube, seat and torque and repeat for each one, make sure you do clean the bore in the head for the injectors very well, otherwise you can overfuel the cylinders and pour raw fuel out the exhaust,(iv seen it happen before)
 

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make sure you replace all orings on each injector, lube the hell out of them, the best way is do one injector at a time, orings, lube, seat and torque and repeat for each one, make sure you do clean the bore in the head for the injectors very well, otherwise you can overfuel the cylinders and pour raw fuel out the exhaust,(iv seen it happen before)
Just to be clear, his injectors will be built and will come with new o-rings. Don't want the OP thinking he has to do anything extra with them..
 

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Another item: Make sure all the copper gaskets around the nozzles come out when you remove the injectors and that you have new ones on each injector when they go back in. Cheers!
 

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Hi 97! - A suggestion to consider - when cranking to build oil pressure and fill the fuel rails and fuel bowl, pull the PCM circuit breaker so the injectors won't be firing until you are ready to go for the start. Didn't see how many miles you have, but a rebuild on the fuel bowl might be worth considering and check the fuel pump for leaks, especially around the weep hole. Turniing the engine by hand was enough to show it on mine. I also got an injector remove / install tool ($40) as this was my first time pulling injectors and it sure took the apprehension out of it for me. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just to be clear, his injectors will be built and will come with new o-rings. Don't want the OP thinking he has to do anything extra with them..
Thanks for that. That was one of my questions I had to ask Jim about. I shouldn't have to get anything from the parts store except vcg's, gp's, and pbr right?

Another item: Make sure all the copper gaskets around the nozzles come out when you remove the injectors and that you have new ones on each injector when they go back in. Cheers!
Do you know if new ones of these will come with the injectors I order?

Hi 97! - A suggestion to consider - when cranking to build oil pressure and fill the fuel rails and fuel bowl, pull the PCM circuit breaker so the injectors won't be firing until you are ready to go for the start. Didn't see how many miles you have, but a rebuild on the fuel bowl might be worth considering and check the fuel pump for leaks, especially around the weep hole. Turniing the engine by hand was enough to show it on mine. I also got an injector remove / install tool ($40) as this was my first time pulling injectors and it sure took the apprehension out of it for me. Good Luck.
Where do you get that tool at? Never heard of it.

I think I'm going to rip the stock fuel system out completely. Rosewood is closed until the 28th so he won't get to them until the 29th. By then I should be able to get efuel in. Thanks for all the answers.
 

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Got it here -

Super price on OTC Tools 6067 at ToolTopia.com


Electric fuel is a great idea - I looked at it but was too much at once for my time frame and I couldn't figure out where to put it on the van because of limited room in front of the fuel tank.

For filters, here is a quick comparison -
http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.com/memberstuff/al/PPF_2008-02-25.pdf

Here's a good write-up on electric fuel -
Electrical fuel conversion insall - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

If your truck is going to be 'waiting' for the injectors, you might want to consider the oil cooler rebuild and the Stancor Glow Plug Relay - I would recommend the 586-903 because it is rated for 15 volts.

Good Luck.
 

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Probably just me, but I would probably wait to do the electric fuel until after the injector install and everything seems to be working well. I've read about it too many times where guys do all kinds of mods at once, and when something is wrong afterward there are too many variables to sort out easily.

The new copper gaskets should come with the injectors (they are part of the o-ring kit that you would buy for each injector if you were just changing them), but ask Jim just to make sure. Definitely don't use old ones! Cheers!
 

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Probably just me, but I would probably wait to do the electric fuel until after the injector install and everything seems to be working well. I've read about it too many times where guys do all kinds of mods at once, and when something is wrong afterward there are too many variables to sort out easily.
X2 -- I certainly understand trying to do stuff while its down, but there is nothing in an inj R&R that involves the fuel system stuff, so button it up get air out of the system and running right, then tackle the fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for all your tips. Everything from this thread is coming in handy.

I've just finished getting all 4 of the drivers side out. I'll tell you what, I was stressed over nothing. They came out with ease. All copper rings accounted for, everything else accounted for (that's always my worst habit - losing hardware) and everything is organized :psn:

My only question so far: Inside the injector sleeve at the bottom is a tiny hole, do I need a tube small enough to vacuum the oil out from under that? Or is the 'hydrolock' panic about the 2ml's at the bottom of the sleeve? Would that little bit cause hydrolock? I only have a 3/8od hose and that won't fit inside the injector sleeve hole at the bottom.

edit - one more question: Would it make a difference if I drained all the oil out of it? Would that eliminate having to vacuum the oil out of the bottom? Not saying I'll do it this time, just for discussion sake....?

Also, I'm waiting on efuel. I decided on that once I got half way into this. LOL

Thanks so much for all the tips. I'm starting on the passenger side now. Jim will be getting a package on Tuesday. :D
 
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