to be honest the only time i have seen the mains studded is when running a girdle like ***'s etc. I was thinking they went to studs for holding power plus they could be longer.

would be interesting to see.

 

You can use higher clamping force.

But it you up the torque on the mains you must align-hone it.

 

Yes, just more holding 'clamp' force. However if you clamp the caps harder you will 'oval' them just enough thousandths that you need to have the engine torn down and have a line hone run through the mains to circle them back up.

 

Not a big deal, it is on a stand anyway.

SO is it worth it or not? Do the bolts ever stretch or let go where having a stronger stub even if at the same tq would be worth it?

Precisely what I want to know.

 

SO is it worth it or not? Do the bolts ever stretch or let go where having a stronger stub even if at the same tq would be worth it?

 

On a stand....what happened w that.
I have been workin on cloneing your rig.

If it was out , id be checkin the oil pan
Maybe even think about fillin it,
thou I am not liking the oil heat thread right now with that.

 

The motor I burnt a hole in piston #1 is being rebuilt because the backup motor I have in the truck is worn out. It is basically a core, not a driver.

 

The main caps walk if you don't stud them, this can lead to pinching off the oil wedge and spinning a bearing or breaking the cap and main webbing right off the block.

 

That doesn't sound good, any particular powerlevelor usage this applies to?
I know stroken pulls so I consider his usage harder then my dd habits.

 

Thanks that's what I wanted to know. ARP Main Stud & Bolt Kits 250-5801 it is then.

 

TARM, I actually think I might have a spare main stud kit somewhere.

If I can find it I'll sell it to you cheap.

 

Hay..... I like cheap too.

LOL

 

Could always check w *** I think they have dome r&r rods

 

May do that. Thanks for the info Mike

 

erment to say ..some r&r rods, not dome R&R

 

Hmmm.. I just installed main studs in my shortblock. It was machined with factory bolts though. So I need to have it lined bored again, even though it has never been ran yet ?

 

Did you torque them down to the ARP specs or the factory specs? I would think its all based off what the machine shop torqued them down to when they did the honing. If you torqued the Stubs more than that based on everything I have read and been told you need to have it re-honed using those stubs having them torqued to the same amount you plan to use.