<- Sums it up
What is the true advantage to running main studs over main bolts? Less main walk? Do they handle more power or only theoretically? I am trying to get some info here.
Not a big deal, it is on a stand anyway.Yes, just more holding 'clamp' force. However if you clamp the caps harder you will 'oval' them just enough thousandths that you need to have the engine torn down and have a line hone run through the mains to circle them back up.
Precisely what I want to know.SO is it worth it or not? Do the bolts ever stretch or let go where having a stronger stub even if at the same tq would be worth it?
Zactly.......And if the torque spec is not followed to a T they will distort as well.However if you clamp the caps harder you will 'oval' them just enough thousandths that you need to have the engine torn down and have a line hone run through the mains to circle them back up.
The motor I burnt a hole in piston #1 is being rebuilt because the backup motor I have in the truck is worn out. It is basically a core, not a driver.On a stand....what happened w that.
I have been workin on cloneing your rig.
If it was out , id be checkin the oil pan
Maybe even think about fillin it,
thou I am not liking the oil heat thread right now with that.
That doesn't sound good, any particular powerlevelor usage this applies to?The main caps walk if you don't stud them, this can lead to pinching off the oil wedge and spinning a bearing or breaking the cap and main webbing right off the block.
That would be great!! If you do find them I would be interested in that. I am in the acquiring parts phase of doing the build. Hoping I will be able to have it all together before winter. These things sure are not cheap like ford or chevy gasser motors to build:doh:. While you are digging around if you just happened to find a brand new set of hypermax or most any comparable aftermarket rod be sure to let me know LOLLOLTARM, I actually think I might have a spare main stud kit somewhere.
If I can find it I'll sell it to you cheap.