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<- Sums it up
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Discussion Starter #1
What is the true advantage to running main studs over main bolts? Less main walk? Do they handle more power or only theoretically? I am trying to get some info here.

Thanks
 

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Village Idiot
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to be honest the only time i have seen the mains studded is when running a girdle like wop's etc. I was thinking they went to studs for holding power plus they could be longer.

would be interesting to see.
 

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Subject Matter Expert
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Yes, just more holding 'clamp' force. However if you clamp the caps harder you will 'oval' them just enough thousandths that you need to have the engine torn down and have a line hone run through the mains to circle them back up.
 

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SO is it worth it or not? Do the bolts ever stretch or let go where having a stronger stub even if at the same tq would be worth it?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, just more holding 'clamp' force. However if you clamp the caps harder you will 'oval' them just enough thousandths that you need to have the engine torn down and have a line hone run through the mains to circle them back up.
Not a big deal, it is on a stand anyway.

SO is it worth it or not? Do the bolts ever stretch or let go where having a stronger stub even if at the same tq would be worth it?
Precisely what I want to know.
 

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PSN Pretender
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However if you clamp the caps harder you will 'oval' them just enough thousandths that you need to have the engine torn down and have a line hone run through the mains to circle them back up.
Zactly.......And if the torque spec is not followed to a T they will distort as well.

FWIW with just the outer studs torqued my mains grew by .003, torque the inners with the girdle on and it went back into spec.
 

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Village Idiot
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On a stand....what happened w that.
I have been workin on cloneing your rig.

If it was out , id be checkin the oil pan
Maybe even think about fillin it,
thou I am not liking the oil heat thread right now with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
On a stand....what happened w that.
I have been workin on cloneing your rig.

If it was out , id be checkin the oil pan
Maybe even think about fillin it,
thou I am not liking the oil heat thread right now with that.
The motor I burnt a hole in piston #1 is being rebuilt because the backup motor I have in the truck is worn out. It is basically a core, not a driver.
 

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Plays with Motors
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The main caps walk if you don't stud them, this can lead to pinching off the oil wedge and spinning a bearing or breaking the cap and main webbing right off the block.
 

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Thanks that's what I wanted to know. ARP Main Stud & Bolt Kits 250-5801 it is then.
 

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Junior Mint
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TARM, I actually think I might have a spare main stud kit somewhere.

If I can find it I'll sell it to you cheap.
 

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Village Idiot
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The main caps walk if you don't stud them, this can lead to pinching off the oil wedge and spinning a bearing or breaking the cap and main webbing right off the block.
That doesn't sound good, any particular powerlevelor usage this applies to?
I know stroken pulls so I consider his usage harder then my dd habits.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
TARM, I actually think I might have a spare main stud kit somewhere.

If I can find it I'll sell it to you cheap.
Hay..... I like cheap too.

LOL
 

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TARM, I actually think I might have a spare main stud kit somewhere.

If I can find it I'll sell it to you cheap.
That would be great!! If you do find them I would be interested in that. I am in the acquiring parts phase of doing the build. Hoping I will be able to have it all together before winter. These things sure are not cheap like ford or chevy gasser motors to build:doh:. While you are digging around if you just happened to find a brand new set of hypermax or most any comparable aftermarket rod be sure to let me know:D:D LOLLOL
 

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Village Idiot
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Could always check w wop I think they have dome r&r rods
 

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May do that. Thanks for the info Mike
 

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Village Idiot
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erment to say ..some r&r rods, not dome R&R
 

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Oooo, White Lightning !
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Hmmm.. I just installed main studs in my shortblock. It was machined with factory bolts though. So I need to have it lined bored again, even though it has never been ran yet ?
 

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Did you torque them down to the ARP specs or the factory specs? I would think its all based off what the machine shop torqued them down to when they did the honing. If you torqued the Stubs more than that based on everything I have read and been told you need to have it re-honed using those stubs having them torqued to the same amount you plan to use.
 
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