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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
The Excursion is doing awesome! Starting to show some signs of age though, at 221K miles. On a cold start she has a bit of s stumble now, nothing serious but it was never there before. I KNOW the turbo needs a rebuild as we get a metal on metal sound sometimes when under load at full boost pulling grades. I know we have some boost leaks, the intercooler boots are covered in oil again. The previous owner installed the boost and EGT gauges in the wrong spots and they left large leaks around the sensors in both the charge pipe and the down pipe. I am sure she could use at least injector O rings and some Riff Raff intercooler boots, along with a deleted pedestal and turbo re build. I plan to do these sometime this year.
I just changed the oil and fixed a leaky transmission cooler line. Otherwise the Ex is as good as ever.........just needs a few small things :) Would love to do some upgrades and run some Swamps injectors :)

Last year I fought with the rear AC and lost. I cannot keep that sucker charged, not sure where the leak is this time, but I do know the issue is with the rear AC
I need to replace the rear ac lines and two other rear ac parts, we cannot afford to do that this summer as we have so many other projects.
We are in North Idaho so we only really need the AC for 1 maybe two months a summer.
Yesterday I ordered rear AC block off kit, found on Ebay for $53.
Some AC is better than nothing!
I will plan to buy all new rear AC lines (the rubber ones) they are $400+, next spring.
 
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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
Excursion needs some love! Boost leaks, oil leaks, typical 220K mile 7.3 stuff. She will get some love soon, this fall I will go through the whole top of the 7.3 and re seal her up. For now we have front AC!!

I replaced the serpentine belt, tensioner and idler assembly with a gates kit from Rock Auto, this was way overdue.
Next I went to install the rear AC block off kit. My dubass ordered the wrong dang kit, this one was made for an expedition....whoops
Anyways I dawned on me that in order to block off the rear ac lines on the Ex you could use Superduty AC hoses without the "T"
We just happen to have a V10 superduty frame and cab outside because my stepsons F350 cab is so rusty he is going to replace it. Sure enough BOTH AC lines were still there and in tact!
So I cleaned them up, cleared them out, replaced the O rings, cleaned the orifice tube again and installed the superduty lines
Vacuumed the system it held for several hours, charged the system with new R134 and 6 oz of oil....all is well! We have FRONT AC......which is better then nothing.
Next year I will spend $$$ to upgrade therear ac feed lines and fix the rear ac unit.
For now I am ordering the next go around of parts....Riff raff intercooler boots, new ford HPOP high pressure lines, turbo rebuild kit, injector O rings (swamps injectors? will see how $$$ goes) and more...... water pump and oil cooler have some slight leaks, will address those also.......

The Ex rolls on!!!!!
 
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410,

Watch out on the water pump.. Mine "dripped" every now and then for a couple of weeks and then it completely and suddenly let go a week ago.

Cj
 
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Discussion Starter · #265 ·
End of summer, excursion is getting some love.
I have wanted to do this for 3+ years now, basically since we got the Ex. I have gone through the top end of every 7.3 we own, mine and extended family. I have rebuilt /upgraded about 5ea Garret turbos and all of them still on the road. The Excursion is having a hard time making over 8-9 psi of boost these days, plenty of oil and fuel leaks, so it is time to dive in!
She has treated us well, moved all of our crap 1800 miles to Idaho, hauled 32' enclosed trailer way overloaded between CO and ID at least 12 times...she is a beast!
The engine and trans need some love, now 220,000 miles and change

So first order of business was FINALLY cut off the 20 year old stock battery terminals and convert to lugs. I picked up a hydraulic crimp tool last year so it makes this job so much easier...

Next up was to remove all the FMIC piping and boots, intake plumbing and have a look see at the valley and turbo
Found a few "boost" leaks
Found a "dusted" turbo (I knew this). The turbo actually makes a nasty surging noise at the top of mountain passes while pulling trailers, the noise has gotten worse over the years, actually sounds like metal on metal in the last year or two. So I knew the turbo was due for a rebuild. Sad part is all of this was "re done" by a Ford 7.3 shop in Colorado just before we traded pinks for this truck. I have the paperwork. Big shock, they botched several of the installs. The boost gauge feed was leaking since day one, they put the boost feed tube right in the cool side charge pipe before turbo. I JB welded this before, it appears to have worked. All of the factory boots and clamps were filthy, get some oil and grime inside your boots and clamps and you will have leaks. So all of this was FINALLY removed and cleaned/inspected.

I found oil leaks:
turbo pedestal
drivers HPOP line
valve cover gaskets
turbo housing

I found a fuel leak, the pass side fuel feed line has a hole in it right at the retainer bracket....just like they say to look for.

Up pipes have black soot on them, also leaking

So time to order some goodies!
Pulled the trigger on
turbo rebuild kit with 360 degree thrust washer, 5+5 compressor wheel
Ebay bellowed up pipes, EBPV deleted turbo housing, and deleted pedestal
Diesel O rings fuel feed lines and HPOP lines
Riff Raff intake boots
Fuel filter

Stay tuned! Next year we will plan to visit the valve cover gaskets and injectors, I would love to get some baby swaps for this thing like I have in my 97 F350..... that truck pegs the boost needle at 25 psi and will put you in the back of your seat through 3rd and 4th gear :)

For today I will just put her back together while we wait for parts.



No more leaks here since JB weld!


fuel feed line has a hole


Hpop line = starting to show wetness


fuel feed also wet at fitting back of pass head


Wrong spot for EGT sensor, also shitty execution of install, look at those welds? sheesh. This sensor should be near the exhaust manifold not in the down pipe aft turbo


Turbo has been to pebble beach

No in and out play, no looseness, but it does not spin as freeley as I would like = coked oil in hot side of turbo I bet

Leaks at every fitting


And now the good news:
All battery cables converted to copper lugs




All parts cleaned, what a time consumer! I already had some Riff Raff intercooler boots left over from when I went to a 6.0 intercooler on my 97
 
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Discussion Starter · #266 ·
all back together


Riff raff boots at the intercooler
I ordered the rest of the boots to complete the kit
Now waiting on parts to rebuild the turbo, delete the pedestal and convert to bellowed up pipes.
The rear ac has been deleted for now, that is why the blue gloves covering the old lines......



Spent a few hours attempting to "restore" these cheapo Ebay headlights. After much sanding with 1200 grit I made some progress, on a 1" area...... no way jose. So since this style is only $101 delivered these days we just ordered another set.....they last about 5 years with harsh winter driving :) The oxidation is so thick..........





see the clear spot?

lol that was after hour of sanding, buffing, polishing.....not worth it.


water pump weepage, this water pump is like 5-6 years old? was installed just before we got the truck, so was the turbo, pedestal, etc etc.....if you want something done right.
 
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Rock Auto..Eagle eyes....cheap and last 3-5 years. I know this for sure.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
Parts have started to arrive! So I took everything off of the excursion, turbo, pedestal, up pipes, etc
That dang band clamp behind the turbo slowed me down a little, it has been a few years since I did turbo R&R on Superduty... I got smarter I think
I used a ratchet strap to loose the drivers side of the clamp since no amount of pulling or prying would get it to budge...that worked nicely. Ratchet strap opened the clamp enough for me to stick a small pry bar in behind the turbo and smack the pass side of the clamp with hammer and pry bar....bing! came right apart.... 45 minutes to get to that point, 1.5 hours on the clamp........thank GOODNESS for the topside creeper, Need to build these trucks now before my body says NOPE to these over the engine twisted superman flying positions.........
Took turbo apart, all is well, normal oil leaks, the compressor wheel completely dusted, turbo takes effort to spin.
Found PLENTY of oil seeping past the rear seal and getting cooked under the heat shield on the hot side....... that's par for the course same thing I always find in these GT38's I think this is the 6th one Ive rebuilt? The other 5 are still going strong, thanks to you guys here at PSN I kinda know what Im getting into!
 

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I don't know much about the 7.3, so this might not apply, but on my 6.0 I use nickel anti seize on the band clamps when reinstalling them. It's not 100% foolproof, but it has definitely reduced the amount of corrosion and makes them come off so much easier.
 
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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
well heck yeah that is a great tip, should work on any and all turbo band clamps one would think, even ricers :)

Waiting for new turbine and shaft....I kinda screwed mine up. As I said its been a few years since I did this and I did no research. Once I had the compressor side apart I remember smacking the shaft with a hammer lightly and the whole turbine drops out....well that is if you remove the hot side housing first.....no bueno
Bitched up the fins on the turbine pretty good...one of those homer "doh" moments.

So $75 later new turbine is on its way, otherwise I cannot complain this thing came apart easily.
Pedestal was leaking
Turbo housing was leaking
Up pipes were leaking, the bolts were just finger tight??
This ex was in a wreck before we got it, everything pass side fender was replaced, the turbo and ped were re sealed with new up pipes....Ford 7.3 shop in CO did the work, they did an OKAY job, but not a ME job.....













Come on Post office!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
Parts are in and I have some time to put this thing back together!
First I replaced the fuel feed lines from feul bowl to both heads.
Then I replaced the HPOP high pressure lines from HPOP to each head
Much easier to do this work with the turbo out

Then I started cleaning all the parts, so nice to have a parts washer (craigslist special)




the wall mounted winch is for pulling disabled vehicles into the bay.....old shop never had this, I always wished it did so we made it happen....so handy!
Turbo rebuild and install today!
 

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Discussion Starter · #272 ·
turbo rebuild went smooth like butter
Remember to install the hot side housing BEFORE you try to bolt on the compressor side of things........not the first time I have done that.

First to remove all the cooked oil




PB blaster/scotch brite cleans things so well


Rebuild kit

NO need to go over all the details, so many GT38p rebuilds out there, getting the center cartridge ready to go together


All cleaned, lubed and together


deleted housing


Time for paint!
fuel lines in


HPOP Lines in


Valley cleaned up a bit, up pipes bolted LOOSELY in place, clamps IN PLACE, time to install the pedestal


High temp BBQ black, several coats


Turbo is installed, clamps in place and set, now I just need to tighten the up pipe connections and finish the piping.........should run later today!
 

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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
Should run later today....ha! Yeah right. Had a ranger 4.0 lose a freeze plug yesterday, have a 98 V8 Ranger getting some fixes, 78 F250 neighbors truck lost its rear brakes...............normal day in the shop
Had two hours to throw at this last night
I was able to get the up pipe bolts tight and both clamps tight.
All downhill now!


Planning to start this thing without the intercooler pipes in place? Is this ok?

I have never done it before.... I want to look for leaks at the oil and fuel lines

 

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Yes you can start with no pipes or intake plumbing. Jus don't have anything near by that can get sucked in. Also, I'd remove that clamp on the pass fuel line. It isn't needed, but what it will do is rub a hole in that new line over time. Nice work!

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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
I was planning to leave that clamp on but the fuel line sure seemed like it was bouncing a bit so I put it back on. Now you have me wanting to remove it again :) There is still a rubberized coating on the clamp, I was thinking maybe add more rubber......thanks for the feedback!

I was able to start her up yesterday with everything hooked up sans the intercooler pipes..... sure enough large oil leak!
Lucky for me it was just fitting at HPOP line I forgot to tighten?? Fixed that, sopped up all the clean oil now filling the valley............started again, no leaks!!
Nice to have a clean valley and a clear eye shot of the drain hole, makes it easy to check for leaks while running.

So I put her all back together EXCEPT the dang stock clamps for the charge pipe boots have a very hard time fitting over the riff raff boots, so out came my collection of clamps, stopped at 800pm again last night, 12-14 hour days on my feet...I will finish her up today, install new headlights, check for leaks....and order a new water pump and oil cooler O rings.
Its always something with these old trucks....it's okay, she has EARNED IT!
Very happy with the upgrades, really looking forward to making boost again.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
wooooooo hoooooo shes running and running really well, It has been a long time since the Ex had this much getup. Throttle response is way better then it was. I took her to town with the kids and two dogs to drop kids off at Skoo.......managed to hit 22 psi on the boost gauge, without towing anything. Then at the fuel station I looked underneath...sure enough drip drip drip....dang! Head home, get under the hood....another HPOP fitting leaking, Was able to put another turn on it with the wrench and now we are leak free again.......
.
Awesome to have her running properly and making proper boost....before this we had a nasty turbo noise and max psi I saw on the boost gauge was 7..........
Now she sounds awesome through the 5" exhaust!!!!!!

Ill get some updated pics, I was also able to install the new headlights.........looks so much better!
I love my 7.3's very much here's to another 225K miles
 

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Why did i see the grill and think toyota?

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Glad you got everything back together. I don't have a 7.3 so I don't know the details of getting stuff sealed, but I can still commiserate because I have never gotten my 6.0 to not leak somewhere. I'll fix one and it starts up somewhere else. Fix that one, somewhere else. I just gave up and keep an eye on the levels. lol

Two questions for you, though... What bumper is that? I'm considering a front bumper, but don't like a bunch of em, but that's not too shabby! Also, how do you like the headlights? It's past time to replace mine, but I just can't decide if I want to go LED, projector, those fancy new ones that use the electrical arcing to create light, etc. I hear some people say the ones they use are nice EXCEPT for, and then a slew of issues come up. I'm ok with swapping them out every five or so years to alleviate the plastic hazing if that's the only problem, but thus far it seems like if I want to improve my lighting situation I'm kinda limited if I want quality without paying a fortune.
 
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