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Discussion Starter #241
LOL Im just trying to get a rough estimate
Yes when we were talking injector O rings and inch pounds its very important that you have new hold down screws and prolly new injector cups :) Now I go tight tight

You make a good point and you made me laugh! Thanks dude!!
 
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Native Texan
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roughly tight enough to not come loose but not so tight as to strip something is where I try to land at when I do front end parts.

I was born into Gobernment health care. And will die in Gobernment Health care. God Bless Our Military Men And Women.
 

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Technically the pitman arm nut is a one time use. But I’ve reused mine a few times and just replaced the lock washer.
 

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Red loctite or bearing mount
 

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Discussion Starter #245
Pitman arm was loosey goosey, it took like 4 full turns???? See this is why we check torque like 20 times after a suspension change like this. All good now! Had to break out the big wrenches, the Skyjacker track bar bracket does not leave enough room for a big socket and pry bar...

Shes tight now! no more noises. Steering wheel is straight too...not to tackle the AC before the heat wave gets here.

Anyone bypass the rear ac?
the rear ac on the ex and the van both giving us fits (leaks)
 

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Don't bypass. I've done it on an older vehicle and when the heat was on I was suffering! Without that rear unit, the front one just can't keep up. If you have anyone riding in the back, they will thank you for taking the time to find and fix those leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #247
copy that

Pitman arm was loose again! I am ordering new lock ring washer and nut
I am putting at least 200 ft lbs to it....anyone ever double nut one of these suckers? I will replace washer and nut considering using the stock nut as a jamb nut.....

yesterday was almost 100 degrees, back in 70's today I'm going TRY to tackle the AC units (F350, van and excursion!) this week while its still cooler out.
I guess I will inject some dye see where the leak(s) are.... another 68 oz of R134?!?!?! going broke quick with this hobby
 

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Steel mill smoker
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copy that

Pitman arm was loose again! I am ordering new lock ring washer and nut
I am putting at least 200 ft lbs to it....anyone ever double nut one of these suckers? I will replace washer and nut considering using the stock nut as a jamb nut.....

yesterday was almost 100 degrees, back in 70's today I'm going TRY to tackle the AC units (F350, van and excursion!) this week while its still cooler out.
I guess I will inject some dye see where the leak(s) are.... another 68 oz of R134?!?!?! going broke quick with this hobby
I feel your pain. Just bought a 6.0,starting to get random issues.lol.

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My buddies OBS pitman arm loosens itself all the time with a 4" lift. Loctite and double nut.
 
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Tell your buddy to try nordlock washers and to try and torque it two days in a row.
 
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Everything I've read says 200 ft-lbs, but that just didn't feel very tight to me when I did mine. When I had to take it off (long story, different thread), it was SUPER easy. So, I went up to 300 the next time. Seems to be staying this time. Funny thing is I think the F-450/550 uses the same steering box, but their torque value is 350 ft-lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #252
yes the 06+ torq
 

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Discussion Starter #253
yes the 06+ torque value is 350 ft lbs...have to use my legs for that!!
I've been using two large wrenches put together, I can easily get 200 ft lbs this way when I put my muscle into it....I let my stepson have a pull too....he was not able to get any more then me. The old man (im 46) is still stronger (hes 32) :)

Ordered a new lock ring washer and nut yesterday from Amazon now I gotta research the nordlock stuff Sbluke posted
 

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Discussion Starter #254
Working on Excursion AC its being a PITA
So last year the system quit working on us, the previous owner had replaced the compressor at the very least. I had charged the system in Colorado and it was working great for a year.....then it would ice up around the canister. Now I know why, lots of debris on the back of the orifice tube. Cleaned it and re installed.

The system will vacuum but will not hold it, after a few hours it bleeds back to 0
I cannot for the life of me find a leak in the system? I have checked every inch of every line.....perhaps its internal?

I tried to charge it with some R134 so I could force a leak, it will not take any r134 in, even with the low pressure switch jumpered and compressor running?
It takes just an ounce or two of R134 then stops...the low side builds pressure up to about 60-80 psi, the high side never seems to change...Clogged?
PITA
After messing with it for 4 days I gave up, for now. I HATE giving up....but I am used to needing parts.
I am pretty sure I need to replace the compressor, condenser, canister, orifice tube, rear valve and flush all the lines.
How the heck do you flush all the AC lines on this beast??
Take it to a shop with a flush machine???

$$$$$ leaking out...........all advice appreciated, lots of metal bits clogging the orifice tube = black death, YEAH!!!
 
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Finding ac leaks can be extremely difficult. Sometimes it can't be done without a detector. You can try some dye, but I've never found it very helpful at all.
 

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You could start taking it apart and capping stuff off and see if it holds vacuum.
I had one I chased for four days. Would hold pressure but not vacuum. I ended up building a vacuum adapters for every piece, and drawing vacuum on every part and hose till.I found it. It was the seal behind the compressor.
 

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Working on Excursion AC its being a PITA
So last year the system quit working on us, the previous owner had replaced the compressor at the very least. I had charged the system in Colorado and it was working great for a year.....then it would ice up around the canister. Now I know why, lots of debris on the back of the orifice tube. Cleaned it and re installed.

The system will vacuum but will not hold it, after a few hours it bleeds back to 0
I cannot for the life of me find a leak in the system? I have checked every inch of every line.....perhaps its internal?

I tried to charge it with some R134 so I could force a leak, it will not take any r134 in, even with the low pressure switch jumpered and compressor running?
It takes just an ounce or two of R134 then stops...the low side builds pressure up to about 60-80 psi, the high side never seems to change...Clogged?
PITA
After messing with it for 4 days I gave up, for now. I HATE giving up....but I am used to needing parts.
I am pretty sure I need to replace the compressor, condenser, canister, orifice tube, rear valve and flush all the lines.
How the heck do you flush all the AC lines on this beast??
Take it to a shop with a flush machine???

$$$$$ leaking out...........all advice appreciated, lots of metal bits clogging the orifice tube = black death, YEAH!!!
You can flush it yourself with A/C flush or brake kleen in a pinch and an air nozzel with a fat rubber tip.
 

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I really liked the flush I got at Auto Zone last time. That stuff smells fantastic. It takes time and a little patience to get all the junk out of the evaporators, but can be done. They also carry a pressure canister full of flush with a blow gun attached. I've never had one, but they look really handy. I recommend searching for flush in the Auto Zone website, even if it's just a look/see.

I do have a leak detector, Harbor freight special, which works ok. But I only use that for minor leaks on a charged system.

For major leaks, I use shop air, run through a dryer/regulator, and a long hose away from the compressor.( For maximum efficiency of the ears) I usually start around 40psi and work my way up. I listen at the vents inside, everywhere I can. Sometimes I get lucky. Next phase is the squirt bottle full of dish soap and water, spray all hoses, EVERYTHING. Just like leak checking a tire.

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Discussion Starter #260
okay I have my work cutout for me will keep you posted
Saving $$$ to get all new AC parts for this baby
thanks you guys! appreciate all the ideas
 
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