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Discussion Starter #1
Well, my truck has been hard starting when cold and not plugged in. Finally I cranked it around 25 seconds and it decided to quit. I know the problem is not my FICM because I tested it with a great 48v. new oil and RevX made it start and run better but it's obvious I need some new injectors.

If I went through Warren Diesel with rebuilt 155's and an SCT, would I have a problem with my truck blowing a gasket before I can hit the studs and gaskets next spring? I don't power it and will only tow someone out of the ditch in the winter. Holidays just don't give us the cash to do it all now and it's TOO cold out to go that far into it. I'll be doing the oil cooler and other things in spring that will eat up money from family things if done now but I need a running truck now.

What do you guys think? Looking at the Livewire along with these injectors.

Will my injectors be refurbished to work almost as new as well as the performance gain?


Thanks
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I pulled the FICM apart and the solder connections are good as indicated by the photos and writeups I've read here and all over the net. Cranking voltage was good too. I would lean more to something that's temperature affected than electrical. I do know some electronics are affected but don't believe this to be the case here.

Just put the new starter in and it turns twice as fast as before. I never realized the old one was that bad. It still started after a few seconds of turning over though. I shut it off after a minute of idling and restarted it again and it turned for about 3 seconds before starting. I let it warm up and did it again and it cranked right up with just a couple of rotations. This leads me to believe the oil temps or pressures are the key. Local mechs can't test it because they're over a month backed up with oil field trucks broke and paying top dollar to get them up and running.

Either way, I have the wife convinced I need injectors and you all know we want injectors for more power. She's agreeing with them for now so I gotta jump before she changes her mind. The other things are cheaper and easier to justify even buying one at a time and digging into all at once when I have it all and in warmer climate.

Patrick, I'll be sending you a PM. I tried Warren direct with E-mail but no response. I need to know if mine will be refurbished or just modded as that more than likely won't fix any issues with the injectors.

Thanks
Dave
 

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As Len said - you can do everything posted on the web to your FICM, have it show good voltages, and it can still be bad. No garage mechanic can KNOW its not the FICM unless you have a known good one to swap in and the engine behaviour doesn't change.

Besides, when someone posts only one voltage, then I would say they didn't test it completely. The test should be done on a cold engine at 3 conditions: KOEO, cranking, and at 2000-2500 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did the voltage tests just around 3-4 months back. All per the article I believe you wrote on FTE. All testing led to no less than 47.6v and I pulled it apart to check even after testing and maybe build up the connections myself. I have the 7 screw FICM and all the connections inside were great. It's been developing the white smoke on long cranking more and more from the beginning. That's what started my trek to eliminate the possibility of injectors. I went with 5W40 Rotella T and it got better for a while. I then put Rev X in and it got a bit better even still. Seemed to only limp it along longer really. It's going downhill starting but runs fine when warm. After the starter swap though, I could be down on power by a single injector and not know it. No lope in idle when warm either.

Thanks]
Dave
 

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Could be glow plugs or the glow plug controller as well. Have you scanned for codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Don't have a scanner. What are the odds of the GP's being the culprit? Whe the truck is plugged in, it has much less of a problem starting. When I don't plug it in, forget it when cold out. I do however, have plans to replace those when in for the injectors anyways. I just don't see when they heat the cylinder up and the heater doesn't, how they could be the culprit. I think I'm not giving the full symptoms here but I'm really leading to the injectors based off what I see. Not diesel super smart but I'm pretty good at troubleshooting. I want to swap them anyways and I see I can get non studded tunes. Seems pretty fair to consider fixing the truck and improving performance at the same time. I know the timebomb comments will show. I'm FULLY aware there is a potential but that is based mostly off maintenance and driving style so I'm perfectly fine there.

Trust me guys, if it seemed like a simple $200-$400 part, I'd try it out but I really think based off what it's doing, that it's injectors.

Thanks for trying to help with considerations but everything I read on a few different boards and threads from now to years ago say that my problem should be the injectors.

Tearing into the engine a fewdifferent times doesn't scare me. Did it once for the EGR delete knowing I'd be back in for more. Keeps everythig clean with constant stripping and cleaning. I love the practice.

Dave
 

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As Len said - you can do everything posted on the web to your FICM, have it show good voltages, and it can still be bad. No garage mechanic can KNOW its not the FICM unless you have a known good one to swap in and the engine behaviour doesn't change.

Besides, when someone posts only one voltage, then I would say they didn't test it completely. The test should be done on a cold engine at 3 conditions: KOEO, cranking, and at 2000-2500 rpm.
He said in his original post that he tested the truck with a good working FICM. So i'm assuming he pulled his off and put one on off of another truck that is known to be good.
 

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He said in his original post that he tested the truck with a good working FICM. So i'm assuming he pulled his off and put one on off of another truck that is known to be good.
His original post did not say that .........


Well, my truck has been hard starting when cold and not plugged in. Finally I cranked it around 25 seconds and it decided to quit. I know the problem is not my FICM because I tested it with a great 48v. new oil and RevX made it start and run better but it's obvious I need some new injectors.
He just said he tested it.
 

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Well, my truck has been hard starting when cold and not plugged in. Finally I cranked it around 25 seconds and it decided to quit. I know the problem is not my FICM because I tested it with a great 48v. new oil and RevX made it start and run better but it's obvious I need some new injectors.

If I went through Warren Diesel with rebuilt 155's and an SCT, would I have a problem with my truck blowing a gasket before I can hit the studs and gaskets next spring? I don't power it and will only tow someone out of the ditch in the winter. Holidays just don't give us the cash to do it all now and it's TOO cold out to go that far into it. I'll be doing the oil cooler and other things in spring that will eat up money from family things if done now but I need a running truck now.

What do you guys think? Looking at the Livewire along with these injectors.

Will my injectors be refurbished to work almost as new as well as the performance gain?


Thanks
Dave
Really? then what does this state? Sounds like he tested with a good 48V like he said....not the original to rule out the FICM. Maybe the OP can confirm whether he just tested the original or swapped it out and actually tested a known good working one. Cause what i'm understanding is that he tested a good one....meaning he swapped it out with a good one and tested it...IDK.
 

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If you type bigger maybe your assumptions will always be fact .............

His wording was poor - it is easily (and more likely) interpretted as he obtained a good 48V reading during a voltage test - but who knows for sure. That was the reason for my post (and Len's) about a 48V reading is not necessarily a 100% test. Useful information vs banter ..........
 

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Seems you like to assume also...so make both of us assumers until the OP can clear up what he actually did.
 

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Sounds like the OP just wants someone to agree with him to replace the injectors as opposed to systematically track the problem and fix it, but thats just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry guys. Out hunting and don't have internet in a treestand. I did not swap the FICM. I tested mine with the procedures listed by you Bismic, that say to test in the few situations and I got 48v on all positions with 47.X the minimum. In that article it says that the problem lies in the injectors or GP's if the voltages are good with the similar symptoms. Reading MANY threads here and other forums lead me to the injectors just as it says there. Good descriptive article there!

Do I want it to be the injectors? No. I'd like the truck to just run fine and upgrade when I want so I can buy more toys for the kids and increase my hunting property. If I'm going to pay for a new set of injectors (because I'm sure this is the problem and can't seem to articulate it over the internet well) I might as well upgrade for a few more bucks and replace GP's while I'm in there anyways.

This is the problem, trying to explain something to someone over the internet without them actually hearing or seeing the problem. That's what codes help with (somewhat). Tell a code, posters can look them up in a book and reply with the book answer. It's not always the book answer you know. I've had codes indicate O2 sensors on gas cars only to find it be the gas filler cap not venting right or venting when it shouldn't.

My mistake for thinking I could articulate the problem right. The intention was to see anyone had the same situation or knew it was such, based off my apparently not so detailed description. The second part of the intention was to ask about the tuning with 155's and ability to use them without studs. I have read around and was just hoping for confirmation. I think I know what I'm going to do. Thanks for taking the time to try and help and I am sorry for starting a ruckus between two of you. It's Christmas so lets all just get along. Truck started fine after being plugged in and got me out to the woods and even started fine not being plugged in for 4 hours in 20* weather. It still cranks longer than I like so I'll work towards the injectors and tuner and replace the studs and gaskets in the spring. Going to a 36' 5th wheel that's 4000# heavier than my current bumper pull and I'm slowly working towards a reliable puller. Just trying it out of the standard recommended order. Truck has 115,000 on it and is maintained well. I'll roll the dice and see.

Thanks all and have a great end of year holiday season. I did. Backstraps were great last night!
 

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Thanks for clearing that up Dave. So i apologize to Bismic...my assumption was wrong and his was right. But remember...just because the voltage reads good...still doesn't mean the FICM isn't the issue. I've tested a truck that read 48V with all the tests and it was still bad with a burnt halft shell inside that got replaced by ford. If you know someone who has no issues with the FICM on their truck and doesn't drive it much...i'd would swap FICM's for a few days and see what it does in the cold mornings just to rule out the FICM.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No problem. Don't have anyone I know to swap out with so I'm out of luck there. I pulled mine apart and all components and connections looked great inside. I'll have to chance it and worry about that later. It's running and not dead so I can do the injectors now and worry about a modified FICM after winter if it doesn't die first. That's an easy external swap. Either way, Everything is going to need to be swapped to have a reliable long term tow truck.

Thanks
Dave
 
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