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I have recently purchased a 2005 F250 Crew cab 4x4 6.0 (170000 KM)! First post on this site as well.
(PS if this is in the wrong topic please move me, new to the site 馃槄)

I am a mechanic appreciate and fairly familiar with the 6.0s and their common faults. Before buying the truck I checked everything I could with the Torque app.

Now after driving it fill time for a few days I'm noticing a long crank issue. Cold, hot, first start of the day or last. Doesn't really matter. The odd part is its intermittent. One time it'll fire up after 4-5 seconds, the next it'll crank to infinity and beyond (but will eventually fire). Doesn't matter if the truck as been off for 5 seconds or 50 min. Doesn't seem to be time related or temperature dependent. The truck cranks kinda slow, batteries are good. Odd part is if you crank it, it'll crank slow, stop cranking and crank again right away and it'll crank faster... Thoughts? I don't think it's Glowplug draw as they don't fire when the truck is already warm. I have not checked the ground points in the frame yet but the battery terminals are like new.

As for the list of things I have done/checked

-ICP: removed and check if the rail was full, it was so no dummy plugs/stand pipe leak on passanger side at least. Sensor doesn't leak and pig tail is in good shape.

-IPR/HPOP: the IPR duty cycle is perfectly in spec while the truck is running, cold and warm. Seems no issue there (24-28 at warm idle). The HPOP is also all good on pressures cold and warm. (600 idle, max 3900 at WOT). It seems to build quickly on cranking so don't think thats it?

-Oil: the truck did have an aftermarket filter but I've replaced it with an OEM motorcraft filter AND new cap.

-Fuel: fuel filters were also replaced with motorcraft filters. I have also installed a blue Spring kit. I haven't checked the fuel pressure manually, should I?

- FICM: she seems solid, 48 to 48.5v at all times. Once in awhile drops to 47.5 but for barely a second.

Not sure what else to note. The truck doesn't smoke at all on start, even hard cold mornings. The truck runs perfectly after starting, no issues at all. Lots of power and runs like new.

Im planning to do a leak test tomorrow via the IPC sensor port so we will see if that shows any leaks on the driver side. Besides that I'm going to clean the ground straps and not really sure what else to check at this point..
 

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I have recently purchased a 2005 F250 Crew cab 4x4 6.0 (170000 KM)! First post on this site as well.
(PS if this is in the wrong topic please move me, new to the site )

I am a mechanic appreciate and fairly familiar with the 6.0s and their common faults. Before buying the truck I checked everything I could with the Torque app.

Now after driving it fill time for a few days I'm noticing a long crank issue. Cold, hot, first start of the day or last. Doesn't really matter. The odd part is its intermittent. One time it'll fire up after 4-5 seconds, the next it'll crank to infinity and beyond (but will eventually fire). Doesn't matter if the truck as been off for 5 seconds or 50 min. Doesn't seem to be time related or temperature dependent. The truck cranks kinda slow, batteries are good. Odd part is if you crank it, it'll crank slow, stop cranking and crank again right away and it'll crank faster... Thoughts? I don't think it's Glowplug draw as they don't fire when the truck is already warm. I have not checked the ground points in the frame yet but the battery terminals are like new.

As for the list of things I have done/checked

-ICP: removed and check if the rail was full, it was so no dummy plugs/stand pipe leak on passanger side at least. Sensor doesn't leak and pig tail is in good shape.

-IPR/HPOP: the IPR duty cycle is perfectly in spec while the truck is running, cold and warm. Seems no issue there (24-28 at warm idle). The HPOP is also all good on pressures cold and warm. (600 idle, max 3900 at WOT). It seems to build quickly on cranking so don't think thats it?

-Oil: the truck did have an aftermarket filter but I've replaced it with an OEM motorcraft filter AND new cap.

-Fuel: fuel filters were also replaced with motorcraft filters. I have also installed a blue Spring kit. I haven't checked the fuel pressure manually, should I?

- FICM: she seems solid, 48 to 48.5v at all times. Once in awhile drops to 47.5 but for barely a second.

Not sure what else to note. The truck doesn't smoke at all on start, even hard cold mornings. The truck runs perfectly after starting, no issues at all. Lots of power and runs like new.

Im planning to do a leak test tomorrow via the IPC sensor port so we will see if that shows any leaks on the driver side. Besides that I'm going to clean the ground straps and not really sure what else to check at this point..
Hahaha.... You "looked" at something on a 6.0 and figured it was good......sure wish that it was that easy.
Most likely you have a leaking stand pipe.
Do the pressure test, it's best done. W/o the valve covers on, even better w/o the turbo on.
 

"resident smarty pants"
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What are your cranking rpms?
FICM VPower and LPower when cranking?
It is MUCH better to do the leak test from the IPR port with the special adapter. Also, do it with the valve covers off and look/listen at the top of each injector.

Have you checked the starter positive connections?
I wonder if cranking with the belt off would improve the cranking?

IMO Torque Pro is only an average code reader. ForScan is a lot better.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What are your cranking rpms?
FICM VPower and LPower when cranking?
It is MUCH better to do the leak test from the IPR port with the special adapter. Also, do it with the valve covers off and look/listen at the top of each injector.

Have you checked the starter positive connections?
I wonder if cranking with the belt off would improve the cranking?

IMO Torque Pro is only an average code reader. ForScan is a lot better.
I wish I could use Forscan but they currently have it unavailable for Android devices. I even tried getting an old APK file for it but it just crashed over and over.

I will check the FICM voltage and let you know what it says. I plan to clean and resistance check all the main battery and starter cables today, I will let you know what happens there also.

I have to go find a fitting to get the leak test done, I know you can order them off the internet but that'll take to long lol. If I can find the right fitting I'll test that today as well.

I think I have 2 issues, the long crank and the slow crank. Back to testing more!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hahaha.... You "looked" at something on a 6.0 and figured it was good......sure wish that it was that easy.
Most likely you have a leaking stand pipe.
Do the pressure test, it's best done. W/o the valve covers on, even better w/o the turbo on.
I reread my post a few times, I'm not sure why you think i 'looked' at something and called it good. If you got that impression that was not my intent.
 

"resident smarty pants"
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Just be aware that leak testing from the ICP sensor on a "late 04 and up" model year does not always give a clear result. Sometimes you have to introduce air on the drivers side rail to get a complete test.

Don't leave out the requested cranking rpms when you are experiencing the slow start.

Lastly, what battery tester did you use?
 

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I wish I could use Forscan but they currently have it unavailable for Android devices. I even tried getting an old APK file for it but it just crashed over and over.

I will check the FICM voltage and let you know what it says. I plan to clean and resistance check all the main battery and starter cables today, I will let you know what happens there also.

I have to go find a fitting to get the leak test done, I know you can order them off the internet but that'll take to long lol. If I can find the right fitting I'll test that today as well.

I think I have 2 issues, the long crank and the slow crank. Back to testing more!!
Do you know anyone with a windows laptop? If you use the FORscan beta, it's free.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just be aware that leak testing from the ICP sensor on a "late 04 and up" model year does not always give a clear result. Sometimes you have to introduce air on the drivers side rail to get a complete test.

Don't leave out the requested cranking rpms when you are experiencing the slow start.

Lastly, what battery tester did you use?
Ah good to know, I'll pull the valve covers off both sides and test directly each side.

Annoyingly my head unit turns off during cranking so I'll have to get set up another way to check the RPM at cranking. I'll figure out a way and let you know what speed it is.

As for battery tester I used out snapon one at work and cross referenced with a local parts store tester.
 

"resident smarty pants"
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You can get the rpms from the Torque App - you need 150 + rpms to start
 

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What are your cranking rpms?
FICM VPower and LPower when cranking?
It is MUCH better to do the leak test from the IPR port with the special adapter. Also, do it with the valve covers off and look/listen at the top of each injector.

Have you checked the starter positive connections?
I wonder if cranking with the belt off would improve the cranking?

IMO Torque Pro is only an average code reader. ForScan is a lot better.
^ THIS! I'm betting you're having an RPM issue, but it is definitely a good idea to check other things as well. On my truck, I had cleaned the grounds etc and gained a little, but when I upgraded my cables to 4/0 and used a different style of battery terminal, it was like night and day. My RPMs jumped significantly. On my buddy's truck, his was always soooooo slow when cranking. We thought it was batteries, but they were fine, and it cranked slow even when boosted by a 150 amp booster AND jumper cables to my truck. I finally convinced him to get a new starter and that did the trick. His worked, but was so old and worn out that it was barely able to crank to 150 RPMs. Might be your problem too....or might be quality of connections. If you do wind up getting a new starter, get the 6.4 version. Cranks faster than the 6.0. If you can find a way to get FORScan, check your sync as well. Might be intermittent.

You can get the rpms from the Torque App - you need 150 + rpms to start
I think he's got a head unit (stereo) that runs on Android and he's using that for Torque. Viking, even if you don't have an Android phone, there is a version available for iPhones as well. Or tablets even...I put it on a separate tablet to monitor things while driving.
 
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Check your starter, slow crank (under 150 rpm) it won鈥檛 fire. Determine the cranking rpm if low put a starter for a 6.4 or 6.7 on it and your cured. I went through this same issue. Hope you get er running soon!
 

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I have recently purchased a 2005 F250 Crew cab 4x4 6.0 (170000 KM)! First post on this site as well.
(PS if this is in the wrong topic please move me, new to the site 馃槄)

I am a mechanic appreciate and fairly familiar with the 6.0s and their common faults. Before buying the truck I checked everything I could with the Torque app.

Now after driving it fill time for a few days I'm noticing a long crank issue. Cold, hot, first start of the day or last. Doesn't really matter. The odd part is its intermittent. One time it'll fire up after 4-5 seconds, the next it'll crank to infinity and beyond (but will eventually fire). Doesn't matter if the truck as been off for 5 seconds or 50 min. Doesn't seem to be time related or temperature dependent. The truck cranks kinda slow, batteries are good. Odd part is if you crank it, it'll crank slow, stop cranking and crank again right away and it'll crank faster... Thoughts? I don't think it's Glowplug draw as they don't fire when the truck is already warm. I have not checked the ground points in the frame yet but the battery terminals are like new.

As for the list of things I have done/checked

-ICP: removed and check if the rail was full, it was so no dummy plugs/stand pipe leak on passanger side at least. Sensor doesn't leak and pig tail is in good shape.

-IPR/HPOP: the IPR duty cycle is perfectly in spec while the truck is running, cold and warm. Seems no issue there (24-28 at warm idle). The HPOP is also all good on pressures cold and warm. (600 idle, max 3900 at WOT). It seems to build quickly on cranking so don't think thats it?

-Oil: the truck did have an aftermarket filter but I've replaced it with an OEM motorcraft filter AND new cap.

-Fuel: fuel filters were also replaced with motorcraft filters. I have also installed a blue Spring kit. I haven't checked the fuel pressure manually, should I?

- FICM: she seems solid, 48 to 48.5v at all times. Once in awhile drops to 47.5 but for barely a second.

Not sure what else to note. The truck doesn't smoke at all on start, even hard cold mornings. The truck runs perfectly after starting, no issues at all. Lots of power and runs like new.

Im planning to do a leak test tomorrow via the IPC sensor port so we will see if that shows any leaks on the driver side. Besides that I'm going to clean the ground straps and not really sure what else to check at this point..
I had a similar problem. I would 1st make sure your batteries are OK by doing a load test. You can also swap the passenger side battery with the drivers side as the starter and glow plugs are hard-wired to the passenger side battery. AND I would seriously think of swapping out the starter. That ended up being my issue after chasing for months. I replaced it with the Green Monster starter, unbelievable RPM cranking difference vs stock.....https://www.mean-green.com/DIESEL_c21.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #13
First I want to thank all you guys for your responsiveness. All very helpful information.

last time I posted I had some work to do to continue some diagnostics. While I was cleaning the power cables and ground cables the infamous starter stud broke off. I literally had two fingers on a wrench to see who was even on the nut and it just fell off. She was quite Rusty. Looks like the original starter and she's got 180,000 km on her so not surprised. (And live in the land of the salt, Ontario Canada)

so of course that in prompted me to buy a new starter and I've obviously upgraded to the 6.7. after that all my starting issues have gone away. She fires up almost instantly in any situation but sometimes she cranks for about a half a second longer. But the longest crank I've had since the starter swap is about 1 and 1/2 seconds.

Glad she's fixed, now on to other things like welding my EGR shut!

Again thanks boys and hope this is helpful information for someone else in the future.
 

"resident smarty pants"
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Glad it is fixed, but let me offer a critique.............

10 days ago I asked for the cranking rpms and the data was never posted. If you had checked and provided that number, the issue could have quickly been resolved (ie without the potential "sidetrack" into the high pressure oil system). I must admit that it is frustrating to ask for data and not get it.

This is what 6riders meant with his post about "looking at everything".

As far as obviously upgrading to the 6.7L starter goes, I am not in the camp of this being an obvious requirement. The first starter obviously lasted a LONG time, and its failure wasn't related to its own failure (ie rust was the cause). The 6.7L starter draws more current, so you need to make sure that the batteries and alternator stay healthy or you will get an initial amperage draw that might stress the FICM.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Glad it is fixed, but let me offer a critique.............

10 days ago I asked for the cranking rpms and the data was never posted. If you had checked and provided that number, the issue could have quickly been resolved (ie without the potential "sidetrack" into the high pressure oil system). I must admit that it is frustrating to ask for data and not get it.

This is what 6riders meant with his post about "looking at everything".

As far as obviously upgrading to the 6.7L starter goes, I am not in the camp of this being an obvious requirement. The first starter obviously lasted a LONG time, and its failure wasn't related to its own failure (ie rust was the cause). The 6.7L starter draws more current, so you need to make sure that the batteries and alternator stay healthy or you will get an initial amperage draw that might stress the FICM.
Hey Mark,

Sorry don't mean to frustrate. I wasn't able to post that information for 2 seasons. 1, I was cleaning the terminals before testing to ensure I was getting full power to the starter to test the cranking RPMs. 2 - the original starter obviously wasn't going to operate after the post broke off. So, I wasn't able to gather that information so it will always remain a mystery unfortunately. If I had to guess from the sound, it was about half the 6.7 starter, so sub 100rpm.

We are also in the midst of packing to move across the country so time has been very limited to jump back on here.

As for the new starter yes she pulls more amps. Knowing this I have increase the cable size (to 0 gauge) from both batteries and ground straps. I am moving to northern British Columbia so the quicker starter will help in the cold cold weather. (-30c)

As for the side tracking to the oil system the truck is all original so I was planning on driving in there regardless to update everything before it does become a problem. Obviously is nicer to get the resolution found quicker, but both would have been done either way.

Appreciate you feedback.
 

"resident smarty pants"
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Thanks for that post. You are definitely on the right track identifying the weak areas and dealing with them before an issue arises. Also, improving (and then maintaining) the electrical system is very important, so my compliments to you in that area also. I know buying a used 6.0L can be somewhat of at hit-or-miss proposition, but it sounds like you will be one of the successful ones!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for that post. You are definitely on the right track identifying the weak areas and dealing with them before an issue arises. Also, improving (and then maintaining) the electrical system is very important, so my compliments to you in that area also. I know buying a used 6.0L can be somewhat of at hit-or-miss proposition, but it sounds like you will be one of the successful ones!
I've certainly got lucky with this truck! It's definitely needed some work but mostly a bunch of small things and maintenance. We haul out to British Columbia from Ontario in 3 days. Hauling about 8000lbs 3600km. Fingers crossed everything runs smoothly..
202648
 
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