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HP Junky
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Anyone built there own ladder bars? I'd kind of like to put some on my truck, I've got the equipment and know-how to do it, I'm just not sure if there more to it than just connecting a bar to the axle and frame.
 

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Friend of mine makes them for Excursions I could hook you up with him to see if he has plans available for the SD.

Shot you a PM.:cool:
 

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i need some info for a stock height truck. does this affect the ride quality?
 

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Limp Member
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does this affect the ride quality?


Yep, and if you tow it affects (at least the IME) miserably. Make sure you can easily remove them.

I will try and take a pic of the homemade set on a buddy's truck.
 

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<<< THE GAUGE WHORE...
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Friend of mine makes them for Excursions I could hook you up with him to see if he has plans available for the SD.

Shot you a PM.:cool:

Shoot me one too for the wifes X... !!!:D
 

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PM sent to ya Joe,the Radius Rods will change the handling behavior of the Excursion many times over:rockwoot:
 

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Subject Matter Expert
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If you make a set, make sure it has a shackle in the front mounting point, so that it can freely pivot and move forward and backward as you load the suspension. Fabtech's are a good example. They have that, and also in the rear, they have a bracket that CLAMPS over the axle tube, and the bar is mounted at the top AND bottom. You want something that has a bottom and top location that connects to each other on the bar. Get what i mean? Just one bar at the bottom will "help" control spring wrap, however a ladder style setup will stop the spring wrap. If you have one bar on the bottom, the axle is still allowed to pivot up (enough to give you mild wheel hop) because there is no top link preventing the axle from pivoting at all.
 

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A properly made setup that has the dual mounting at the axle (top and bottom) will work with a shackle. The shackle will limit axle wrap while not binding the suspension during travel. It may still allow the axle to wrap a tiny bit.


A fixed style, single tube bar will avoid axle wrap.....but can bind the suspension.


The key with a single tube setup is to design the bars so that their arc of movement is similar to the arc in which the rear springs travel.
 

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I just built a set for my truck. One bar on each side made of 1 3/4" DOM tubing, 52" long, with 2" heim joints, 1" thread. I have some pics I will try and post tomorrow. I just made brackets to weld to the axle and frame. With the joints I have on my truck, they have 30 Degrees of travel in every direction and with a spacer on each side you can get a lot more than that. My truck only has a 2.5" lift also.
 

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Here are some pics of the trac bars I built. click the truck pic below.

 

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The Unseen Mod
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ya buddy of mine on FTW, http://www.farmboyfabrications.com he makes some awsome traction bars, alot of folks on FTW have them also at a good price as well his name is Jesse give him a ring tell him RescueF250 sent you or anyone that wants a pair. He used to live in NC/Va boarder.

http://www.farmboyfabrications.com/?page=6

Try that. He explains everything and how its works with proof and all.
 

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I have about $300 in trac bars, and havent calculated the headache rack. I would make some of the trac bars for someone for and additional $75.00. They could also be made to bolt on the frame.
 

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coope3 how close are your bars to the front of the leaf springs? I put a set of Fabtech on my truck yesterday but the ladder bar was too close to my springs. When I put a load on the truck the springs looked like they were going to touch the bars. Or does the bar pivot and keep the same distance? It looked as if the springs would squat on the bar. I would like these to work or something.

Anyone?
 

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Mine are no where near the leafs. They mount on the bottom side of the axle and extend almost to the front of the fuel tank. As the springs squat, they bar will travel with the frame about 30degress.
 

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These mount in 2 places at the axle and wind up at the bottom of the angle in the frame. I only have stock 250 blocks, 3" in the rear. The bar is about 2 1/2" from the front of the leaf spring without any load. How much room do you have? Then when the springs compress do they keep the same distance from the bar? Or do they get closer?
I guess I need to go put them back on and hook up my trailer to see. Perhaps you will be able to answer my questions.
Thanks for the info.
 

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A quick on on the sway bar thing. I found the ladder bars did not hit my stock sway bar and I plan to leave it on.

On the Fabtech bars. I am a tard and was not mounting them correctly. I figured what I was doin wrong last night and will try again today to install them. Then I will hook up my trailer and take a ride. I will report back.

Some of you guys have indicated here they are not good for towing. I would be interested in hearing more about what problems there are.
Thanks all, I hope I am not hijacking this thread.
 
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