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· Limp Member
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147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Besides eliminating the lack-luster boot all together, and welding everything solid. What would be the best process for keeping boots in place?

I am considering buying a bead roller and trying a couple different rolls till I find the right combo. What yall think?
 

· HP Junky
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4,909 Posts
I welded a ring around the ends of ech boost tube. I just used some arc welding stick and bent it around the pipe. Then just tack welded it all the way around.

Now you can slip the boot on and clamp the clamps down tight on the backside of the ring. Haven't had any issues since...
 

· A Ghost these days.
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1,013 Posts
JW has a good solution. The other is find an exhaust shop with a bead roller and roll a positive bead on the tube behind teh negative bead or roll the negative bead out. The other poor mans trick is to put 6-8 pan head 1/4 sheet metal screws into the tubes @ the negative bead and install clamp behind them. The boost will never come off. Poor mans bead. LOL.
 

· Registered
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620 Posts
Mike (Bigr) posted some pics of a real nice setup Turbonetics has. It involves bungs welded to the tube and heim joints screwed into an aluminum block. Looks really nice and is functional too!
 

· Banned
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7,730 Posts
What kind of boost pressure are we talkin here? I think that most people simply do not thoroughly clean the boots and pipes before they put them back on. If you don't use something like LPS presolve, or Brakeclean until the silicone starts to get so damn sticky you can hardly slide the rag on it to keep cleaning it, you're not doing the job fully. I see so many people half-ass clean the boots and sometimes not even clean the pipes at all and then blame the boots and pipes. Just spraying it down with brakeclean and wiping the visible oil off does not count. You have to keep cleaning until the coupler gets VERY tacky. You'll know when the oil is Really off of it.

If the silicone is so clean that it's actually tacky and impossible to slide the rag on, and the pipe is squeeky clean you will not blow the boot with the proper torque on the T-bolt clamp under about 50lbs of boost.

Make sure the pipes haven't become "egged" out from constantly overtorqueing the clamps either. That can make them impossible to seal.

A good clean boot/pipe with the right clamp properly torqued shouldn't come loose. It should literally blow the boot apart.

Another thing usually overlooked is relative movement. The engine torques up like crazy when at full power. You would be surprised how that can pretty much rip the pipes out of the boots with or without any boost pressure. Make sure you have some hump boots somewhere on each side, or a long section of silocone hose to absorb that movement. A standard silicone coupler 4" or so long will not take that. They will come loose no matter what the boost. It will try and shove the passenger's side down and pull the driver's side apart when the engine torque's over.

If it's just impossible to get to work right, or you really are running serious boost pressure, there is a company that makes compression type connectors for the cold side stuff. I beleive they are usually purple at the collar. About 200 bucks a piece, but they will not let go. Either that, or V-band it everywhere and run some flex couplers one for each side. That would obviously not let go.

Good Luck.


On Edit:

I found a link to one of the crazy couplers. http://www.burnsstainless.com/Hardware/WigginsClamps/wigginsclamps.html
 

· Limp Member
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147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What kind of boost pressure are we talkin here?

Beyond stock... Beyond 40 PSI. I want a permanent solution that will work with a custom made inter cooler pipes and a couple of turbos. I refuse to use any type of glue, other than hair spray. What the heck happens when you need to take it back apart and your parked on the side of road/track? Besides the fact that most glues wont take that kind of heat and will crack out or even worse suck that garbage into the system.

I keep thinking a rolled bead (or two smaller beads) with double clamps.
 

· AllYourBaseAreBelongToUs
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14,127 Posts
If it's just impossible to get to work right, or you really are running serious boost pressure, there is a company that makes compression type connectors for the cold side stuff. I beleive they are usually purple at the collar. About 200 bucks a piece, but they will not let go.

I believe that's what David showed me last time I was at DI. I'm gonna be using those on the Fordota, and eventually the big truck.
 

· Banned
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7,730 Posts
I don't use any rolled bead, glue, hairspray, or bubblegum. I clean the boots and pipes well and clamp them down.

40psi is a non-issue. I ran 40psi on all stock everything for two years.... blew zero boots. Tore a hole in one of the stockers, but none blew off.

It now runs 60psi and with the T-bolt clamps on the new ductwork I had to fab (All I had at first were band clamps) It has not blown once.

Clean boots. Clean pipes. And provison for engine movement.

Those are the keys.

JMHO
 

· <<< THE GAUGE WHORE...
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11,602 Posts
Mine blew every day... But that was due to oil leaking past the turbo... I welded a bead around them and have never blow one again... Easy cheesey...
 

· A Ghost these days.
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1,013 Posts
Well the ricers use the screws all the time and the boots won't tear if you de-bur them before you install the boots. I even re-used some tubes from a dodge Twin kit while making one with my bro that had them in some of the tubes and that kit was running 100 PSI before we bastardized it for bigger chargers.
 

· AllYourBaseAreBelongToUs
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14,127 Posts

· <<< THE GAUGE WHORE...
Joined
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11,602 Posts
That the TN is leaking oil also? :D

:swordfight:Not a drop...:swordfight:



:flipa::flipa::flipa::flipa::flipa::fordoval:
 
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